OK so the car had a miss on number 2 many months ago...cel indicated cyl 2 misfire so after ohming out the injectors, I found number 2 resistance much higher than spec. I replaced it with an amazon reman but the problem remained but changed...more below.

I've been ignoring it for awhile...been busy and the miss only shows up after the car has been driven and then sits in a parking lot for about 30 mins, or after longer drives. Short trips and anytime when the engine isn't fully hot it runs great.

So I dug in deeper this time. The number 2 injector that I replaced ohms at 11.7...good. It clicks sounds just like the others as best I can tell, but when I unplug cylinders one at a time, it is very obvious that number 2 still isn't contributing.

I swapped the coil and plug from number 2 and 4 cylinders but the misfire is still on number 2. Not ignition as far as I can tell.

Fuel trims on bank 2 are high 8 to 12 long term and short term maxes out under load. The front o2 sensor goes lean under load also. I'm pretty sure I have a fuel delivery problem.

I guess it boils down to this, if the injector is clicking and ohms are good, can it be clogged...yes...but can it be clogged intermittently and misfire only when hot? Just looking for a what else am I missing on why I still have a misfire on number 2 before I go buy another injector.

And yea I could swap them but I've replaced 2 so far and I always destroy them trying to remove them!

 

You have changed the coil, and plug and injector on # 2.


How is compression on # 2 vs the other cylinders?

 

Agreed with JvG above, the compression is more likely to be low on that cylinder 2.


I troubleshooted a Corolla with this same problem where the owner swapped spark plugs and ignition coils with new ones to no avail. Leakdown test showed ultra poor results on that cylinder in question.

 

Could be that one of the valves needs to be adjusted.

 

I would do a leak down test to narrow where the leak is coming from.

 

OK swapped injector again...the old one had warranty. Still have a misfire.

Compression I can do...

What's the technique for leak down test?

 

A simplified method is to just take a wet and dry compression reading. All you are looking for at this point is to see if the cylinder in question has significantly lower compression than the others.

Remove all spark plugs. Remove fuel pump fuse. Open throttle all the way. Screw in compression tester. Have assistant crank the engine. Write compression number for each cylinder. #2 might be much lower. Add some oil to cyl 2 and take a reading. If compression is somewhat better you have a piston ring problem. If reading is still low, you have a valve problem.

 

Leak down test tells you exactly where the leak is coming from, for example, intake valves, exhaust valve, or piston rings.

You can rent or borrow or buy one.

You hook up the leak down tester like the compression gauge, except you need to do this when the cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke.

I prefer this method over compression test.

 

YOu still gotta reset the computer for it to recognize the new part same as a computer always reset the computer after every hardware replacement