So today i will attempt to replace the entire timing chain and etc....

Bought new exhaust studs, knock sensor, thermostat.

Wish me luck.
Any pointers on this repair

 

Since your timing chain has apparently jumped you probably want to count teeth and rollers rather than relying on the orientations of the current chain etc

 

The FSM says to put engine on TDC before removing the heads.

 

Ill finish tomorrow









In this picture you notice broken piece of timing chain guides that are made of plastic smh. This is why my car wouldnt start. It was off timing.

 

Well yeah, but that's not what I'm talking about. Typically when you replace VTC's and/or timing chain stuff, you just mark the sprockets and chain and cam caps with like a paint pen or something. That way, you transcribe your marks from the old chain to the new. Then all you have to worry about when you put it back together is lining the marks back up.

I'm saying that if I were you I would be careful doing it that way. Since it's a high possibility a tensioner or something failed on your engine, and as a result your chain jumped timing - then you should NOT transcribe and rely on any timing orientation as your engine currently sits.

Do you understand what I'm saying? If you do that, you will just essentially replicate the jumped timing all over again.

That's why I'm saying you need to explicitly count rollers/sprockets and verify cam orientation etc. At least that's how I would do it on a suspect engine like that. Look up TSB NTB93-126, it has some supplemental/better info than the FSM including showing you cam lobe orientation.

 

Sound good. I understand.

 

line it up like you're rebuild your motor. don't use the old marks for reference..it's krap at this point.

 

Pretty much what i had plan was to take it all off but ill make sure crank is at tdc. Then install chain n 2 upper chain then turn 120* when installing the cams. I'm going off the fsm

 

https://i.imgur.com/YTgA3Jq.jpg

 

 

here you go tony..

nice progress..subcribe!!

 

Thanks

 

 

Had anyone try using oven cleaner to clean head? I know it changes it color but that would matter if you spray painting it anyways.

I was thinking about using it since its way more affected then degreaser, afterwards ill pressure wash it. I'm only cleaning the outside of the head.

 

Here the old guide wear out on left cyclinder head.





Here the right cyclinder head





Here a crack knock sensor

 

Rebuild vtc by jeff. Ready to install

 

If you're asking if putting a cylinder head in an oven to clean it vs chemicals and brushes, then I'd have to say the cleaners and brushes is going to be faster and remove more grease/dirt/etc (Easier to boot). Several YouTube videos show you how to make a low cost/easy to make "parts cleaner" if you so desire. If you wish to clean many parts it's a great idea. I believe James92se recently made his own and could provide a variety of techniques to build one for your needs.

 

Lmao i definitely didnt mean put cyclinder head in oven. I meant oven cleaner spray that **** is strong chemical.

 

oven cleaner will eat plastic and may damage aluminum surfaces. its an acid based cleaner. personally i wouldn't use it on deck surfaces or sensitive areas like bearings and etc. if your engine was fully assembled and wanted to spray some on the block...i would say sure but not when the internals are exposed.

 

Oven cleaner isnt good for aluminum. I check the caution section on the back label. Ill stick to brake cleaner

 

Compression is low because its a cold engine. Especially after timing chain replacement. But all cyclinder are about the same compression all around. I pretty sure there some electrical problem. Time to swap out tons of relays,fuses,and engine harness

 

Your timing is off I think. Or you bent a few valves.

 

If the timing was off compression would be a lot lower than that.compression will go up as soon as engine gets warm up. I tested for bent valves, valves are good.

 

Oh man, try switching the fuel feed and return lines. I did this once years ago, I mixed them up by accident.

 

I'll double-check but I will kill myself if that was the issue I'm heading to the junkyard now so after this I'll try it

 

My first rebuild of this engine was in Tech School 13 years ago. After installing the engine it wouldnt start, not even close. I couldnt figure it out, my teachers couldnt figure it out. So i took it to nissan, the senior tech found it in 2 minutes and said he made the same mistake a few times.

 

Fuel lines Are good. I'm going to swap out the cps for the 3rd time n see what happens. I was going to take a engine harness off a ve in junkyard but it was a auto

 

My timing is ok cuz all chain marks line up with the sprockets and vtc sprockets marks

 

have you taken a coil out of the plug hole and see if it arcs? hold it close to a ground and see if you see the spark when you crank.

also are you getting fuel? are the plugs wet with fuel after cranking?

if you have all 3 and it's still not starting then it's definitely a timing issue (mechanical and/or electrical).

 

Got fuel, spark. It's electrical issue. I just replace the entire timing chain, new tensioners, guides. Timing chains and rebuild vtcs. All marks lined up with all 9 sprockets. So it not the chain issue or jump chain issue.

 

are you able to confirm that it's still lined up? you lined it up with the correct marks on the block/head right? you said you changed the crank/cam sensor right? if the sensors are good and you swapped in new ones...then i'm going have to point to something messed up with the chain even if you lined up the marks. it might be off one tooth...maybe.

is your engine harness in good shape? thats the only other thing it could be.

 

I follow the fsm like if it was a rebuild engine. Step by step. It wasnt hard to do just a lot to take off. I bought a used cps from jamestexas. Which looks f*** up but anyways I'm picking up another one today. N try that out

I did it just like fsm with the cams.

10 o'clock and 12 o'clock

 

Oooooook good news

I found a ve at local junkyard, i grab the ptu and cps. I swap out the cps and the car turn on then it die.

But then again i crank it and it wont start then i unplug fuel pump fuse and it starts and dies cuz not receiving gas. Then i plug back in the fuse and it crank up right alway and stays on only if i rev it a couple of times. It wont hold idle and it eventually dies. At least i know its not a timing issue now. Cps that jamestexas gave me was bad. My bad luck of course. Now i have to figure why it turns on after i plug fuse back in. My injectors are brand new Q45 injectors 370cc and it was running perfect before my timing chain went to crap. I'm thinking it's fuel related or iacv related. What do you guys think?

 

Adjust your idle screw all the way up to (try to) rule out your IACV. It's bizarre that messing with the fuel pump fuse seems to affect its ability to start and run. That kind of seems to throw the fuel system under the cloud of suspicion a little bit.

Did you still never get Nistune to be able to resize your injector K value properly?

 

I don't have the license for nistune.

 

Tony, You mentioned in your last post your running q45 370cc injectors? Why are you still using those injectors on a stock ecu? Might a good idea be to go back to the stock injectors? Sounds like maybe when you pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it your ridding excess fuel thats probably been dumped in by those large injectors then putting the fuse back in it starts and idles for a little then the injectors are dumping too much fuel in the cylinders causing it stall out again. Maybe try going back to the stock injectors. Keep your rail with the larger injectors for later when your ready and pull the rail complete with injectors off the scrap ve you were pulling parts from . Just a thought.

 

Im planning on taking the fuel pressure regulator and injectors from ve at the junkyard. My car ran good with the 370cc for about a week before the timing chain went to crap on me.

I installed the 370cc with stock ecu cuz i was heading to the shop dyno to get tune with the nistune. I was going to swap ecu at the shop. With my luck the power steering went out that day so i replace it. After installing pump i was driving to shop and timing chain went to ****. Smh bad luck

But you guys are right. I believe whats happening is 370cc are flooding the engine. That's why when i release fuel pressure and crank it again it starts up. I guess ill put back stock ve until i get to the dyno then switch it at the shop

 

I'm surprised your car ran at all with 370cc injectors and the stock ECU. I would swap back to your stock injectors and change your oil as you've likely "washed" your cylinders.

 

installed stock injectors today and car started up. doesn't hold idle tho. I crank it once more and engine lockup i crank it once more and engine spin once and lockup again. im lucky that engine wasn't running when it lock up (a starter does create enough force to bent a rod or crack a piston). smh due to oil fill up with gas. I changed the oil and it was literally liquid thin. I left engine with spark plugs off and will let it sit for a day or 2. let gas evaporate. before I crank it again I will pour oil in spark plug holes and crank engine with disable spark and fuel a few times before I start it with spark and fuel. at first I though my starter was going bad but I notice oil wasn't oil no more when I was in the middle of changing the oil.

 

Jy engine only has 95k, you may want to consider getting it.