Last night my daughter calls to report the 99 I30 stalled out on the way home. She reported the ABS lights came on, then the oil light, and the car stalled out.

I get to the car and find the battery is dead. A dead battery while driving usually means a bad alternator. So the alternator is suspect. I check the oil (per light report) and hook up jumper cables to my car. It starts right up. Well at least this is something that I can fix.

So at that point, I decide to make a dash to the late night parts store and pick up a new battery. Its either new battery (to get the car home) or pay a tow truck charge.

I install the new battery, car starts, and I drive it home. While driving home I notice the turn signals are not working. Once I get home I check the Emergency flasher and find it is not working.

I found this information below from another thread on this topic.

The turn signals are powered through an ignition switched 7.5A fuse #14. The hazards are powered through a constant 10A fuse #11. Everything runs through the hazard switch. When the hazard switch is off, power goes though it to the combination switch. When it's on, power goes to the flasher unit. If the hazards and signals don't work, it's probably the hazard switch itself or a fuse or wiring issue before the switch. If it was something after the hazard switch, either the signals OR hazards wouldn't work, not both (unless it was the flasher relay).

Next Steps

1) Check the charging system
2) Check fuses and replace relay

This all seems coincidental but I'm not sure.

ORG thoughts?

 

The very first thing I'd check related to battery/stalling issue Craig would be the continuity of the alternator charging cable.

If that checks out OK then it would appear evident that the charging issue is related to a failed alternator.

Once that's fixed I'd venture a guess that the signal/hazard issue is just some collateral symptom that will resolve itself once the charging system is repaired.

But yes ... once the alternator is addressed check the appropriate fuses and relay(s).

You also might want to run some parasitic draw testing just to make sure there's no short or a faulty switch somewhere.

 

Try wiggling the hazard switch button. Chances are that your daughter pressed the hazard switch.

Reason I say this is because I have a similar issue with that switch in my 1992 Nissan pickup. Fiddling with its hazard button solves that issue for me. Might for you as well.

I think there is some oxidation on the contacts inside the switch after all these years.

Wiggling and pressing the hazard switch button might fix it. Otherwise it might be possible to take the switch apart to clean the contacts. I've succeeded in cleaning up relays that way several times in 1970s European carin the mid 90s, when they were 20 years old, like ours. It was oxidation, not another defects almost every single time.

Our cars are old enough now for oxidation to cause issues. It might be good practice to clean the contacts with fine sandpaper or contact cleaner. This applies to efi issues as well.

 

Thanks Turbo and JVG.

This morning's findings:

Battery Voltage

Engine Off: 12.60

Engine Running - 12:14

Alternator Cable - Good

Next Stop: NAPA

 

Agreed ...

 

Please let us know the results.

Best wishes to you and your daughter.

 

The plastic alternator plug disintegrated when I tried to unplug it.

I just ordered a new Nissan part from a dealer via eBay. I may find one at a salvage yard tomorrow.

 

I was able to clean and salvage the original harness plug. It snapped in place when I plugged it into the new alternator socket.

My multi-meter shows 14.47 volts when the engine is running.

Turn signals and emergency flasher now work. The I30 is back on the road.

NAPA Part Number: BSH AL2389X

Bosch Reman

 

What's that p/n CS_AR? I'll buy it from you if you no longer need it.

Glad you got it fixed.

 

I won't know the P/N until it arrives.

Meanwhile, check this out:

https://www.am-autoparts.com/Nissan/...FQyHaQodyXEAXg

1995-2000 Nissan Maxima Alternator Harness Nissan 24076-40U00

 

Glad that her car is back on the road.

Dad's garage is always open.

 

I actually did pretty much the same thing to the connector for my coolant temp sensor Craig.

I couldn't get the little release mechanism to depress and I tried to use a pair of needle nosed and I ended up crushing the connector housing.

However, it still connected to the new ECT sensor and I sealed the connection with some shrink-wrap.

 

No offense intended, but you paid too much for that harness.

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts...odel=&Filter=()

http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/2407640u00

 

oh well, but the 2nd link for $33, not too bad.. versus $47 he bought it for. $14 difference. Live and learn. Happens to all of us.

 

Yep. Here's a deal for $30.61.

http://www.orderinfinitiparts.com/pa...&siteid=215003