03Alt3.5Biz

I have a 2000 5 speed Maxima SE that operates well except occasional stalling while coming to a stop after the car is fully warmed up. When stopping and pushing in the clutch the idle will drop below 500rpm and the car will shake. It doesn't stall much but it's on the edge of stalling.

Some detail: fairly new air filter, newer plugs, TB bypass a few weeks back, no codes.

webjohn

Maf

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

iacv

Heel Til I Die

Sounds like the MAF. I had the same problem with my '00 MT. I replaced it with OEM. You have a 2000 so the part isn't too expensive. I replaced it and mine runs fine now. The knock-off replacements didn't last. A bad MAF won't necessarily throw any codes.

Did you replace the air filter with K&N or some other type of oiled filter? I remember reading somewhere that if the filter is over-oiled, then it can mess up the MAF.

If you change the MAF, make sure you reset the ECU (disconnect the neg battery cable for 24 hours). If you're still having issues, you can try the idle relearn, but it's tricky to get just right.

03Alt3.5Biz

I still use a stock air filter, not an oiled version. Where do u recommend I buy a maf for best pricing and reliability? How much do u estimate it will be?

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

I would check for vacuum leaks before spending money on a MAF. Stumbling at idle but running fine at higher RPM is a classic symptom of a vacuum leak.

I'm not saying it isn't the MAF but checking for vacuum leaks is free and easy. It's the first thing I would do with a rough idle that wasn't throwing a code.

Heel Til I Die

An OEM MAF is usually somewhere in the neighborhood of $80-$100, but yes - absolutely look for vacuum leaks as well. It could be as simple as a $5 hose fix.