Beat on the starter a few times and it fired right up, and then it took longer and longer and longer. So I got a new one, now she doesn't fire up at all. (NO CRANK AT ALL, NOT EVEN A CLICK)
Took her to pepboys to get them to glance over it and see if they could figure it out.

I was told they tested the new starter and it came back fine.
They checked the continuity of the start circuit and everything came back good.

There is a buzzing coming from down near the trans pan when the ignition is set to [on], kinda freaking me out. Any help greatly appreciated

 

If the car would start with the old starter, then the replacement is bad. Rebuilt starters (and alternators) are notorious for being dead on arrival and failing relatively quick. I had that same fight with autozone. Their "test" said it was good but it wouldn't start either of my 2 maximas.

Check that you are getting 12 volts to the skinny wire on the starter when the ignition switch is turned to the start position. Get your battery jumper cables and connect to the battery negative terminal and the engine area by the starter. If you still have the problem, it is the starter.

 

Go to the JY and get a real Nissan starter. OE starters have a certain number of splines that move the flywheel correctly. Rebuilds stink.
But DennisMik's advice is probably better than mine. He is always right.

 

Its a brand new out of the box starter, I can short out the two posts on the solenoid and hear it spin up but theres still no crank.

 

That buzzing is usually caused by a weak/dying battery.

 

Okay so no need to worry about the buzzing then, but a weak battery wouldnt be the cause of a no crank? Guess ill have to just go get a multimeter and start reading everything

 

This would be normal.

The solenoid has to energize to move the gear in mesh with the flywheel. Jumping the 2 posts does not energize the solenoid.

Try jumping 12 volts to the little wire that is on the solenoid. This will energize the solenoid, engage the gear in the flywheel and make the starter motor run IF the starter is good.

 

If you put in a new starter it should start right up.
I replaced my starter with a Duralast but with the starter it mentioned to check the INHIB switch. That may have to be replaced too

 

Had it taken to a shop, they checked the circuit and everything is coming back fine. They think its a security system issue... and said it would probably have to be taken to the dealership.

 

Well only security issue cold be the NATS module or ECM.
Does it crank or just nothing?
If you pull the modules you can get a volt meter capable of over 10Mohms and test continuity within each modules.
be careful because the DMM's have small amounts of voltage that powers the thing.
1998>These cars are old may have connection issues within harness. have you unplugged any of the modules lately then plugged them back in?
May just need to straighten out harness remove modules and check connections a bit better.

 

they just wanna rip you off. Your mechanic shouldn't need a dealership for a car that's over 15 years old!
Check out Nissan Data Scan II. You can get a VAG-COM cable ISO>9141 KWP2000 and connect to the ECM.

 

Op's car is a 1998. It does not have NATS. Even if it did, and was in lockout mode, NATS does not prevent the starter from operating.

 

Not sure about 98, try swap anti-thieve relay with windshield wiper relay, the relay box is located on the passenger side next to the strut tower. If your battery is fully charged, you can try to jump the starter to see if it cranks.

 

Always get an oem nissan starter made by hitachi. the ones from autozone and other places are complete crap. My oem going strong for three years now and the autozone ones not even a year and they sound like complete crap. I only paid 160.00 for it. Same with the alternator as well only oem nissan hitachi. Only original parts work the best.