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High idle after long drive (idle is fine otherwise)

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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 06:40 AM
  #1  
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High idle after long drive (idle is fine otherwise)

I adjusted the idle with the IACV to about 750 rpm (unplugging TPS, adjusting, then plugging it back up).

I've noticed that after I have been driving a while (maybe 10 minutes of continuous speed like on an interstate) when I stop and put the car in Park I notice the RPM jumps to about 1500 and stays there for a while. Do you think this could be a faulty IACV? Doesn't the IACV take over control of the idle once the car is warm?

I have:
swapped out MAF
cleaned the IACV
replaced the TPS
replaced coil packs
replaced tranny solenoids
replaced o2 sensors
replaced knock sensor


Just listing these things so that they may answer any questions that could be asked. These were all replaced for different issues. I had a bad idle problem that would cause the car to stall. The coil packs fixed that, then had a bad shifting problem and so far, the tranny solenoids have fixed that as well.


Thank you for taking the time to read this.
Old Oct 10, 2016 | 09:12 AM
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Have you checked for adjustment in the TPS?
Old Oct 10, 2016 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbobink
Have you checked for adjustment in the TPS?
Yes, I can't remember the measurement but it's a broad range right? Like .30 to .70 volts (or ohms can't remember). Mine sits at .58 if I remember correctly.

Another weird thing is the high idle happens when I put it in Park after the drive. If I put it back in Drive and then back in Park, the idle corrects itself back to about 750 rpm.
Old Oct 10, 2016 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bigrichi3
Yes, I can't remember the measurement but it's a broad range right? Like .30 to .70 volts (or ohms can't remember). Mine sits at .58 if I remember correctly.

Another weird thing is the high idle happens when I put it in Park after the drive. If I put it back in Drive and then back in Park, the idle corrects itself back to about 750 rpm.
common, mine does the same thing. any codes? mine usually does that after running for just a few minutes and then jumps into gear and settles down.
Old Oct 11, 2016 | 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by bigrichi3
Yes, I can't remember the measurement but it's a broad range right? Like .30 to .70 volts (or ohms can't remember). Mine sits at .58 if I remember correctly.

Another weird thing is the high idle happens when I put it in Park after the drive. If I put it back in Drive and then back in Park, the idle corrects itself back to about 750 rpm.
Also check the closed position switch on the tps especially when the engine is hot. I have two tps with the closed position switch that opens at different ranges of the throttle position.
Old Oct 11, 2016 | 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by bigrichi3
Yes, I can't remember the measurement but it's a broad range right? Like .30 to .70 volts (or ohms can't remember). Mine sits at .58 if I remember correctly.
I'm not meaning to beat this any more than it needs to be, but was the adjustment checked and corrected with the motor at operating temp?

Testing and adjustment on a cold TPS will result in improper readings and adjustment when it warms up.
Old Oct 11, 2016 | 07:09 AM
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I can't remember if the TPS was checked at operating temp or not, I will double check.

I was sitting in traffic yesterday and the car stalled a few times then eventually stopped. I reluctantly replaced the IACV (I messed with the plunger accidentally when I was cleaning it and have been paranoid since).

Well this morning, the car stalled when putting it into drive or reverse. I have now noticed the car only does this in particular (stalling when put it into gear) when it is cold outside (which also happens to be when the car has been sitting over night.

I replaced the camshaft position sensor this morning and as I almost got to work I was behind a car, foot off of the gas, and noticed the car almost stalled while I was driving. The RPM dropped to almost 0 and I gave it some gas and it stayed afloat.

Are these symptoms of a bad ECTS? This car has drained me emotionally and financially. After the camshaft position sensor I have about $1200 in this car now. I almost want to go ahead and change the ECTS anyway. If this doesn't fix it I'm going to sell it. This has caused me way more trouble than it has been worth.
Old Oct 11, 2016 | 07:10 AM
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I should also mention that the high idle issue is almost gone now. After replacing the IACV, I did the reset on idle procedure again (and also reset the computer before starting it again) and everything seems to be working normal. On occasion, after a long drive, when I put it in park the RPM may jump to 1k but I can live with that.
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