Since it looks like they all come off at once, and the parts I'm seeing for $6.99 and $13.99 each. Or would it make the job more complicated?

Also, people say to use RTV. RTV seems to be a gasket maker. Is silicone gasket dressing the appropriate adhesive?

One last thing...I could buy the complete valve cover gasket set with the groomets and spark plug seals, or just buy the 2 gaskets by themselves. I have no idea what those grommets are for or how hard it will be to get them off. But, I do know there's a **** ton of oil leaks on front and rear covers.

 

First, the exhaust manifold doesn't come off for this job so no need for a new gasket. The intake manifold does come off so I would just replace that gasket. When I replaced my front valve cover gasket, I used RTV, not gasket dressing. Finally, I would just buy the complete gasket set. Once everything is pulled, it's easy to replace everything and be done with it.

 

I would just get the valve cover set with grommets and sparkplug tube seals, the plenum gasket, and a throttle body gasket. It's easier to unbolt the TB than disconnect everything.

 

I used Permatex gray on mine.

This, and an EGR tube gasket

Victor Reinz and Beck/Arnley are good brands.

Have some dental floss handy, too, as you'll need it to tie the new EGR tube gasket in place to hold it there when you bolt it back together.

 

Ugh, this is sounding like more work than initially. Not that I mind work, but it's time wise and technique and I don't want to get stuck on anything for hours since I'm working kinda on a limited time scale.

I'm familiar with the throttle body since I've had to clean it often with sea foam in winter/high elevation climate. But this gasket lies where?

 

The EGR gaskets are mounted on the silver looking tube and mounting assembly in the picture.



Here's a picture of the EGR parts before cleaning. Over time, the tubes get filled with carbon and clog.



If you decide to do the EGR cleaning job, you will most likely remove the UIM to clean the EGR port that connects to the EGR tube (upper right) in the picture.

Here's a tip for easy EGR removal and re-installation in the picture below.

After I loosen EGR valve bolt nuts and exhaust connection pipe, and loosen the nuts that hold EGR tube to the mounting assembly, there are two hard to see 14 mm bolts on the bottom of the EGR assembly (yellow arrows) that I remove first.

Once I remove the two 14mm bolts (yellow arrows) that hold the EGR mounting assembly to the engine, then I can swing the rest of the EGR assembly away from the engine and tube without much effort.



BTW 97_GXE - That's a good looking Y33 interior you have in your signature line.

 

Thanks CS-AR. I May need to see if I can pick up a Chilton or Haynes manual also because the write ups Ive seen look kind of general. But, the Chilton manual I seen was for all Nissans and the job was just 1 diagram of bolts. Like yeah, that helps a lot.

And yeah the q45...I might make that my next ride. The interiors or so nice. I've actually outfitted my full interior to i30 seats/doors, chrome handles and wood shift/radio area. But because I have the GXE, I can't do the a/c or dashboard part so it's about as far as I'm going to go with it. Every once in awhile I'll see a woodgrain steering wheel from an i30t in the salvage yard.

Interiors are so much easier than engines!

 

Not to pile on, but in the interest of a successful job, buy the "U" shaped coolant line from your dealer when you pull the UIM and just replace the old one. And don't be surprised if the larger diameter vacuum hose that runs along the top of the VC's cracks to pieces when you remove it. Again from another that has gone at it before you. It's not that hard of a job its just a lot of disassembly. Keep reminding yourself it's just nuts and bolts.

 

Can you please be more specific?

 

Thanks much. I secretly just want to cry right now

This is like the hardest thing I've done since my alternator two years ago that I said I'd never do again. It's so much work, and I'm terrified that I may not remember where things go even though I'm trying to label the best I can and take pictures along the way.

The top hose that runs from valve cover to valve cover cracked at the ends and is completely solid. Where do I get that from?

I'm just getting mad because everyone said it was "easy" and only took 4 hours. I'm on day 2, the ****ing sun keeps going down at 4:30, the weather keeps raining in the morning, albeit it just stays cloudy and dark all day but it's not too cold out. Then, I keep having to make runs to the auto parts store...albeit I got a couple cool tools out of it (magnet picker upper and a bent flex head wrench). But a whole tool set yesterday then regretted it because it was too much money ($35 on sale...but I already have all those things).

I try not to panick under the hood though as that only makes it worse.

 

You're doing fine. Keep Calm and Relax

As far as labeling nuts and bolts, I'd say 98% of them don't need to be labeled or have pictures taken of. As you take an item off, simply put back the nut or bolt back in it's place. Simple. No need to memorize, label, or take pictures...

When you're done and you look back, you're going say it wasn't that bad. If you ever do it again, you'll do it in 1/3rd of the time.

 

I replaced that U shaped vacuum hose with generic vacuum hose from an auto store. That was nine years ago it's held fine since.

Correct me if I'm wrong but IIRC that hose was 1/2", the same size as the one connected from the front valve cover to the air resonator box?

I was scared back then also but doing several valve cover gaskets repairs on various A32s since then it's gotten easy. I still wonder why so many members state loosening those support brackets in back of the plenum is a PITA?

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...im-w-pics.html

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...pair-info.html

 

I didn't find the rear VC bolts to be too hard...But I did have to buy a new ratchet to get in there and have enough room to loosen it. In fact, I'm pretty much breezing along all the hard parts including the little coolant hose. Was a little difficult getting the clamp off but I didn't do it the way the videos showed. That was the last part I did so was able to have enough room.

It's just trying to remember and having to keep being interrupted...but like the Wizard said...It does seem like everything is fitted to go into place. I just can't stop thinking about the throttle body and EGR refit.