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Replacing fuel filter hoses

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Old Mar 26, 2017 | 10:56 AM
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Replacing fuel filter hoses

I messed with getting the fuel filter out for about an hour this afternoon... The filter isn't OEM, but I'm not sure how old the hoses are.

I have new hose but I can't get the old hose off the fuel rail connector on top. I'm dreading what it's going to be like on the bottom. The hose rotates a bit like it's broken free but there isn't enough room to really move it around with pliers. I also don't have the torque I need on it to rotate it with my hand. It certainly will not come off by pulling straight back - I tried that for about 45 minutes.

Primary recommendation I've seen is to cut the hose with a utility knife and then replace wholesale... Tight space in there and I need to go buy a utility razor.

Looking for any recommendations regarding removal! Car is on the curb and fuel filter doesn't seem to be letting enough gas through to start the car. I don't trust the hoses at this point either.

I really can't jack up the car and get under it because I'm parked on the street and I don't want my legs getting run over :P
Old Mar 26, 2017 | 11:43 AM
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As I recall, the filter is held onto the firewall somehow. The hoses are easier to deal with once the filter can move around.

The hoses can be cut with a single edge razor blade or a sharp kitchen knife. I slice lengthwise at the filter and hose connections. Hose will detach easily.
Old Mar 26, 2017 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by JvG
As I recall, the filter is held onto the firewall somehow. The hoses are easier to deal with once the filter can move around.

The hoses can be cut with a single edge razor blade or a sharp kitchen knife. I slice lengthwise at the filter and hose connections. Hose will detach easily.
Worked like a champ!

I bought a utility knife at lowes :P Figure if I have $300 worth of gear wrenches I should probably own a utility knife.

Cut the new hose to the same lengths, preinstalled the new hose on the new filter, set up the clamps. New hose slid on no problems and the only tricky screw to tighten was the bottom one.

Turned the car to accessory mode about 4 times, let the pump run. Finally started it, and it died almost immediately. Started it again and it idled for about 10 minutes no problem.

I don't see any leaks coming out of it and its idling smoothly. Next test is to put it under load and see if it really was the fuel filter that was causing my problems.
Old Mar 26, 2017 | 01:39 PM
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One other question... While idling I kept hearing what I thought was the fuel pump run about every 10 seconds.

I also heard a sluicing - water-in-pipe sort of "someone flushed the upstairs toliet / is taking a shower" kind of noise coming from behind the firewall. Along with some bubbling / gurgling... Thoughts here?
Old Mar 26, 2017 | 02:01 PM
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Gurgling there could mean that there is air in the coolant. Have you worked on the cooling system recently?

If so, raise front of car on jacks or ramps. Remove radiator cap. Run the car maybe for 20 min. Blip throttle from time to time.
Old Mar 26, 2017 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JvG
Gurgling there could mean that there is air in the coolant. Have you worked on the cooling system recently?

If so, raise front of car on jacks or ramps. Remove radiator cap. Run the car maybe for 20 min. Blip throttle from time to time.
No I haven't worked on cooling recently... Doing your prescribed method should vent any excess air and pull coolant in from the reservoir yes? Also, with the radiator getting hot but no cap in I'm not in any risk of hot fluid spilling out or anything? I know taking it off when hot can vent steam and is rather dangerous.

Thanks!
Old Mar 27, 2017 | 10:38 AM
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What I mentoned is the standard proceedure to bleed air after the coolant system has been opened to replace a hose, water pump, radiator, etc.

The car is elevated to that air bubbles find their way to the radiator, then out of the open cap. No, you will not overheat at idle. If your fans work properly.
Old Mar 28, 2017 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JvG
What I mentoned is the standard proceedure to bleed air after the coolant system has been opened to replace a hose, water pump, radiator, etc.

The car is elevated to that air bubbles find their way to the radiator, then out of the open cap. No, you will not overheat at idle. If your fans work properly.
Awesome thank you! I replaced the radiator with the help of a friend about 15,000 miles ago. I haven't noticed leaking coolant but I will definitely give it a try. Really appreciate the tip




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