Possible Bad Knock Sensor - 22060-30P00
Possible Bad Knock Sensor - 22060-30P00
Recently I've been "beta testing" a new version of NDS1 for Android. It's working great on the 98 model using the 14-pin consult port.
I will be glad to see it released for download and purchase through Google Play in the coming weeks. When that happens, I will be sure to let everybody know when it is fully released so 4th gen owners will have this diagnostic tool as an option.
I don't normally use my regular code reader unless I have a check engine light to read. However, since I started testing this new release, I have noticed the KS code appear as the only code for two weekends in a row. So is appears that NDS1 is finding and allowing me to reset a KS code that doesn't trip the Check Engine Light.
Yesterday, I reset the code for the 2nd time and will keep an eye on it for any re-occurrences. No performance changes have been detected - as expected.
This will be the first KS that I've actually found to be bad. I've replaced several knock sensors as part of mid-life refreshes. I usually replace knock sensors with SMP Intermotor part KS79. I've been running two SMP KS79s in the 99 models for years without issue.
Here's a picture of the OEM branded part that I bought on eBay in October of 2016 in the $35-$38 price range.

In the event I get another KS code next weekend, here's a picture of the Intermotor part that I will purchase from RockAuto for $45.79.
I will be glad to see it released for download and purchase through Google Play in the coming weeks. When that happens, I will be sure to let everybody know when it is fully released so 4th gen owners will have this diagnostic tool as an option.
I don't normally use my regular code reader unless I have a check engine light to read. However, since I started testing this new release, I have noticed the KS code appear as the only code for two weekends in a row. So is appears that NDS1 is finding and allowing me to reset a KS code that doesn't trip the Check Engine Light.
Yesterday, I reset the code for the 2nd time and will keep an eye on it for any re-occurrences. No performance changes have been detected - as expected.
This will be the first KS that I've actually found to be bad. I've replaced several knock sensors as part of mid-life refreshes. I usually replace knock sensors with SMP Intermotor part KS79. I've been running two SMP KS79s in the 99 models for years without issue.
Here's a picture of the OEM branded part that I bought on eBay in October of 2016 in the $35-$38 price range.

In the event I get another KS code next weekend, here's a picture of the Intermotor part that I will purchase from RockAuto for $45.79.
You could do better than that Craig. 
Genuine OEM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genuine-...VX4FPP&vxp=mtr
Many, many orgers swear that the knock-off/generic KS's work just as well. They can be found on Ebay for as little as $6 shipped.

Genuine OEM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genuine-...VX4FPP&vxp=mtr
Many, many orgers swear that the knock-off/generic KS's work just as well. They can be found on Ebay for as little as $6 shipped.
You could do better than that Craig. 
Genuine OEM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genuine-...VX4FPP&vxp=mtr
Many, many orgers swear that the knock-off/generic KS's work just as well. They can be found on Ebay for as little as $6 shipped.

Genuine OEM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genuine-...VX4FPP&vxp=mtr
Many, many orgers swear that the knock-off/generic KS's work just as well. They can be found on Ebay for as little as $6 shipped.
The knock sensor code will not cause the check engine light to come on. Don't know why Nissan designed it this way, they aren't saying.
Being a piezoelectric device, the knock sensor has no moving parts. When the knock sensor detects vibrations in a certain frequency range, it generates a small electrical pulse that the ECU responds to.
There isn't much that can go wrong with those things. If you take one apart, you will see a big nut that holds the pieces together. If that were to loosen, the sensor will not be accurate. A more likely thing that happens to the sensor is that the black plastic cover cracks and does not clamp the inner pieces tightly. This happening has absolutely zero effect on the operation of a piezoelectric device. What the cracking cover does is loosen the electrical connection of the connector wire. The connection is a press fit between the cover and the actual sensor, so a loose cover means bad connection. Strange way of doing it.
Being a piezoelectric device, the knock sensor has no moving parts. When the knock sensor detects vibrations in a certain frequency range, it generates a small electrical pulse that the ECU responds to.
There isn't much that can go wrong with those things. If you take one apart, you will see a big nut that holds the pieces together. If that were to loosen, the sensor will not be accurate. A more likely thing that happens to the sensor is that the black plastic cover cracks and does not clamp the inner pieces tightly. This happening has absolutely zero effect on the operation of a piezoelectric device. What the cracking cover does is loosen the electrical connection of the connector wire. The connection is a press fit between the cover and the actual sensor, so a loose cover means bad connection. Strange way of doing it.
Thanks Dennis for the detailed explanation. I may be thinking about a different part, but something about it makes me think this is a part that shouldn't be dropped otherwise it causes it to malfunction. ?
Here's an interesting 3rd gen article.
"It is very sensitive and can be considered worthless if dropped."
http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetr...k_sensor.shtml
On to ordering a replacement.
You could do better than that Craig. 
Genuine OEM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genuine-...VX4FPP&vxp=mtr
Many, many orgers swear that the knock-off/generic KS's work just as well. They can be found on Ebay for as little as $6 shipped.

Genuine OEM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genuine-...VX4FPP&vxp=mtr
Many, many orgers swear that the knock-off/generic KS's work just as well. They can be found on Ebay for as little as $6 shipped.
I admit that I've been tempted to go with the knock-off $6 KS's, but $18 extra isn't going to break me so I always go for OEM myself. Now if the difference was $100, I'd think twice.
This afternoon I took roughly 5 minutes to test the new Knock Sensor without installing it in the valley. I just wanted to see if the new KS resolved the code to and rule out some other electrical connection issue before I go under the intake next weekend for the final replacement.
So here's an unorthodox way to try out a new Knock Sensor without getting your hands dirty.
So don't laugh. It worked as a temporary fix.
Actually people in the Nissan VH45DE V8 world do this "temp fix" more than anyone will ever admit. That's because it is a good two day job on those engines to get to bottom of death valley where the knock sensors live.
It does seem to more have pep now that the KS code has been resolved. Its a subtle difference, but noticeable improvement.
So here's an unorthodox way to try out a new Knock Sensor without getting your hands dirty.
So don't laugh. It worked as a temporary fix.
Actually people in the Nissan VH45DE V8 world do this "temp fix" more than anyone will ever admit. That's because it is a good two day job on those engines to get to bottom of death valley where the knock sensors live.
It does seem to more have pep now that the KS code has been resolved. Its a subtle difference, but noticeable improvement.
Last edited by CS_AR; Apr 16, 2017 at 02:50 PM.



