Engine stalling, trying to narrow down cause.
Engine stalling, trying to narrow down cause.
1997 Maxima stalls and occasionally bogs under 3000 rpm. The engine will stall from time to time while at 1000 rpm or lower and has trouble stsrting up after, however it can go for hours without any symptoms. There are no engine codes even after going around 1000 km with the issue. Fuel filter and spark plugs replaced a few days ago however problem persists. Any ideas? More i fo needed?
My apologies to many of us if I sound like a broken record ... or whatever they call that kind of thing nowadays ... but my advice is to look into issues with the MAF, TPS and/or IAT (intake air temperature sensor).
Also, what's the condition (hygiene-wise) of the throttle body?
Old/failing camshaft and/or crankshaft position sensors could also be contributing.
Also, what's the condition (hygiene-wise) of the throttle body?
Old/failing camshaft and/or crankshaft position sensors could also be contributing.
I had a consistent stalling issue last summer . The car would stall every day . Sometimes after a few minutes , other times after a half hour or more.
I was resealing the upper oil pan and valve covers and inspected/ cleaned everything I came across. What finally cured the stalling was a new MAF (22 bucks on eBay ) and a new engine coolant temp sensor (6.00 on eBay) I used the cheapest new parts I could find to confirm these were the problem. If the symptoms return , I will replace with better stuff -- but hey ,
the car is 22 years old with 390,000 miles and has been running great since .
I was resealing the upper oil pan and valve covers and inspected/ cleaned everything I came across. What finally cured the stalling was a new MAF (22 bucks on eBay ) and a new engine coolant temp sensor (6.00 on eBay) I used the cheapest new parts I could find to confirm these were the problem. If the symptoms return , I will replace with better stuff -- but hey ,
the car is 22 years old with 390,000 miles and has been running great since .
I had a consistent stalling issue last summer . The car would stall every day . Sometimes after a few minutes , other times after a half hour or more.
I was resealing the upper oil pan and valve covers and inspected/ cleaned everything I came across. What finally cured the stalling was a new MAF (22 bucks on eBay ) and a new engine coolant temp sensor (6.00 on eBay) I used the cheapest new parts I could find to confirm these were the problem. If the symptoms return , I will replace with better stuff -- but hey ,
the car is 22 years old with 390,000 miles and has been running great since .
I was resealing the upper oil pan and valve covers and inspected/ cleaned everything I came across. What finally cured the stalling was a new MAF (22 bucks on eBay ) and a new engine coolant temp sensor (6.00 on eBay) I used the cheapest new parts I could find to confirm these were the problem. If the symptoms return , I will replace with better stuff -- but hey ,
the car is 22 years old with 390,000 miles and has been running great since .
Maf
I had a consistent stalling issue last summer . The car would stall every day . Sometimes after a few minutes , other times after a half hour or more.
I was resealing the upper oil pan and valve covers and inspected/ cleaned everything I came across. What finally cured the stalling was a new MAF (22 bucks on eBay ) and a new engine coolant temp sensor (6.00 on eBay) I used the cheapest new parts I could find to confirm these were the problem. If the symptoms return , I will replace with better stuff -- but hey ,
the car is 22 years old with 390,000 miles and has been running great since .
I was resealing the upper oil pan and valve covers and inspected/ cleaned everything I came across. What finally cured the stalling was a new MAF (22 bucks on eBay ) and a new engine coolant temp sensor (6.00 on eBay) I used the cheapest new parts I could find to confirm these were the problem. If the symptoms return , I will replace with better stuff -- but hey ,
the car is 22 years old with 390,000 miles and has been running great since .
do that, and trust me if you get another maf, get a used one from a jy or from someone in the classifieds. aftermarket mafs don't hold up as well.
its more so to see if the MAF is the problem at all, local junkyards told me theyd charge $60 for a used one so screw that. $25 for a china one to see if the problem goes away even for a week would be better so i can just get a nicer new one when i know thats the problem for sure.
its more so to see if the maf is the problem at all, local junkyards told me theyd charge $60 for a used one so screw that. $25 for a china one to see if the problem goes away even for a week would be better so i can just get a nicer new one when i know thats the problem for sure.
This is generally accepted practice.
Over oiled k&n filters are known to foul maf sensors. Cleaning the maf often solves the problem.
it seems that you would rather buy another maf instead.
please clean and re oil yor k&n, or replace it.
otherwise you will also foul your new sensor.
I've only used k&n filters in my maxima for 11 years and 110k miles. Also with other cars. But perhaps you know more than I do.
Last edited by JvG; Jan 30, 2018 at 04:22 PM. Reason: Additional comment added.
Fixed
**Update**
MAF has been cleaned.
All 5 of the engine codes previously on (from disconnecting the MAF and starting the car) have now disappeared however problem persists. Interestingly however my rpms went up about 200 at idle since this cleaning.
put in a new MAF two days ago along with a tps and shes running beautifully with a fsir bit more power less hesitation and chugging with no stalls in the past 300 km. Fuel milage is way up too
MAF has been cleaned.
All 5 of the engine codes previously on (from disconnecting the MAF and starting the car) have now disappeared however problem persists. Interestingly however my rpms went up about 200 at idle since this cleaning.
put in a new MAF two days ago along with a tps and shes running beautifully with a fsir bit more power less hesitation and chugging with no stalls in the past 300 km. Fuel milage is way up too
Last edited by ConcordMaxi; Feb 5, 2018 at 10:29 PM.
clear mixture ratio self learning data
**Update**
MAF has been cleaned.
All 5 of the engine codes previously on (from disconnecting the MAF and starting the car) have now disappeared however problem persists. Interestingly however my rpms went up about 200 at idle since this cleaning.
put in a new MAF two days ago along with a tps and shes running beautifully with a fsir bit more power less hesitation and chugging with no stalls in the past 300 km. Fuel milage is way up too
MAF has been cleaned.
All 5 of the engine codes previously on (from disconnecting the MAF and starting the car) have now disappeared however problem persists. Interestingly however my rpms went up about 200 at idle since this cleaning.
put in a new MAF two days ago along with a tps and shes running beautifully with a fsir bit more power less hesitation and chugging with no stalls in the past 300 km. Fuel milage is way up too
Instructions
1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Turn ignition switch OFF.
3. Disconnect mass air flow sensor harness connector, and restart and run engine for at least 3 seconds at idle speed.
4. Stop engine and reconnect mass air flow sensor harness connector.
5. Make sure Detected Trouble Code (DTC) P0102 is displayed.
6. Erase the DTC memory. (This could be done by disconnecting the car battery for 30-45 min or with a scanner) Refer Manual on reset from ECS no tools method.
7. Make sure no codes are stored in the ECM.
8. Run engine for at least 10 minutes at idle speed.
ref. http://nissanhelp.com/diy/maxima/projects/nissan_maxima_clear_self_learning.php
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