When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I haven't posted in this forum much but I've got a '73 240z that I'm in the final stages of swapping a '96 VQ30DE into. Today I finally tried to start it for the first time after I started the swap a year ago. The motor came out of a '96 i30 Automatic (with 245k miles lol), the wreckers said it ran good and had 190 (+/-5) psi of compression in each cylinder. I'm using the ecu and harness from it as well. It's connected to a 350z CD009 6 speed trans with a 350z oil pan that I modified so the front VQ30 crank sensor could be mounted. A JWT 350z flywheel is between the two with a 6-speed swap ring installed so the VQ30 rear crank sensor works. I also made sure the rear crank sensor has the correct gap from the timing ring, the 350z oil pan makes it sit too high if not modified. JWT has a diagram on their site I used to cut out a lot of the harness that I don't want or need (things like evap, egr, etc.) but I want to make sure the car starts before I take the harness all apart, so I've just cut the wires I won't be using at this point. The starter and fuel pump are not being wired through the ecu because I already had all the wiring for both in the car before the swap. I'm running a walbro 255lph pump and retained the VQ30 return setup with the original fpr (the fpr is on the return side right?).
Anyways I got the oil pump primed by removing the plugs and running the starter till pressure built, and I ran the fuel pump to pressurize the system to 50psi for a few minutes to check for fuel leaks before I tried to start it. At first I couldn't get it to start on starter fluid so I looked back through the diagram and realized I forgot to add power to each coil, the MAF, the O2 sensors, and the rear crank sensor. I fixed that then verified that I was getting spark and got it to start on starter fluid (very loud with open headers in a small garage). However, it won't even try to start without starter fluid, just cranks (with the fuel pump on and 50psi of fuel). I've gone back through my wiring and confirmed that there's continuity between each ecu terminal and the corresponding sensor. I'm starting to wonder if the ecu is fried or if NATS is stopping it from working or something. I don't have an obd plug on the harness yet so I can't check for codes yet but like I said it's got spark. It's got 5v on the rear crank sensor plug with the white wire, the MAF is hooked up with no major vacuum leaks, and it seemed to run good on starter fluid.
At this point I'm thinking that there's some sort of inhibitor or something. I did find in the FSM that terminal 22 on the ecu is labeled as an inhibitor but JWT doesn't mention that at all. I tried grounding it and giving it 12v and neither time allowed the car to start. Is there something about it being automatic, like a neutral safety switch, that would stop it from starting? I looked into this in the FSM but that only seemed to prevent the starter itself from turning on, which I've got working separately. I also read that NATS only stops the starter and fuel pump from working on a 96, is that true? I'd really appreciate any help with getting this thing started. Here's a picture of the current chaos (it's got a VQ30DET intake manifold and TB) for interest lol.
Wow well this is a win and a fail. I didn't have a +12v going to the injectors because I missed that part of the jwt diagram. Just got it started, started right up and sounds mean.
it says 350Z 6 speed Tranmission in his post above.
Thats a heck of a swap man. Post some pics of the car when it’s all done, would love to see the engine bay when it’s all cleaned up, as well as pics of the car. Thumbs up for being innovative
it says 350Z 6 speed Tranmission in his post above. 