I have been having this crank no start problem for about a year and a half now and I still can't figure it out, I have changed the coil packs the crank sensor ref and pos the maf sensor the ignition switch reimmobilized the car and changed the ignition immobilizer and still nothing. I recently changed out every injector and the lines on the fuel rails along with the fuel filter and pump and still just cranks the Injectors were part of the problem because the three prongs on three of them were off but still cranking and not catching.
cananyone help me?

 

The engine has to crank at 350 rpm in order to start. If it is too slow, the CKPS(POS) crankshaft sensor will not create the timing pulses that the ECU needs. Of course a good battery is needed, but the starter may be failing. The starter is a gear reduction type and the lubrication in the planetary gear set in the starter dries up and the gears start to bind and reduces the rpm's. Lubricating the gears may help but if the damage is too much, you have to replace the starter.

 

Forgot to mention the starter got replaced about a month ago hasn't been used a lot just to test try it

 

I will try lubrication though

 

My check your starter signal fuse .. I had the problem were it crank all day no start .. what happened I had no power and was checking fuses and I misplaced it in the wrong spot and when I wiggle my power cable I got power and it crank but no start .. after I replace that fuse in the right spot it started right up .. that start signal fuse tells the injectors to fire fuel at start up .. it may not be your problem but just throwing it out there .. good luck

 

Can you tell me exactly where that is never heard of it until now

 

Ok I did locate it I will go check letter on in the day and advice yall thank for all the help guys

 

The fuse is fine any other opinions would help please

 

The quality of rebuilt starters and alternators is a joke. I can't say for certain that your starter is bad, but if you read through the forums, you will be dismayed. Do not rule out the starter just because you replaced it.

 

It was brand new but any opinion matters what would you like for me to do exacily
I've tried close to everything except the internals

 

Noticed you changed the immobilizer? Does mean you have a 99 model? If you changed the immobilizer or immobilized the car by tripping the NATS system, it will take a locksmith that can reset a 99 model NATS or a trip to the dealer to get it to reset using Nissan Consult software. That is unless you have Consult or the software to reset a 99 model. Note the 99 model's NATS system is different from the 2000+ models that most locksmiths can reset.

Is the security light glowing red?

 

No I had a locksmith do it for 100 dollars it was glowing red before but now it just blinks

 

Again......... What model year is your Maxima?

Is it a 1999 model or not?

Advice for the 1999 model differs from the other years.

We ask certain questions for very specific reasons.

You will save yourself and our members a lot of grief and wasted effort if you spend a little bit of time answering our questions.

 

Yes of course it's a stubborn 99 model.

 

You should have mentioned that in your first post.

 

Good advice but I'm still confused on why car doesn't work

 

You still either have a bum starter or NAT's is acting up. Is your starter 8, 10 or 11 teeth?

 

I will go check right now give me a few minutes

 

You seem to lazy or unwilling to provide the most essential information we need.

The quality of help you receive is directly proportional to the quality of information you give us.

Garbage in, garbage out.

We don't have to help you........

Then there is your attitude. ......

Think about that.

 

Great thanks for that but I'm not really by my car right now at the moment I was going to post first thing in the morning because I had an emergency if you weren't interested in helping me then why more comments... I do appreciate the ones that are helping and see I will inform you about the teeth on the starter tomorrow after I get off work around 2 goodnight

 

if the starter actually cranks the engine over fine then it should not be a starter issue. Starter issues usually result in a no-crank situation, slow cranking or taking multiple key turns tries to get engine to start cranking.

 

If you are having a NATS issue, then the engine will start if you spray some starting fluid (ether) into the throttle and then die when you stop spraying. NATS turns off the fuel system.

 

I'm home and I did count the teeth on my starter I do have 10 teeth. And bingo whenever I spray starter fluid in the TB it does start then stop, is there any way my NATS system is still triggering the injectors not to function.

 

if NATS has been tripped, you would have a solid red security light. Do you have a way to check the fuel line pressure? Harbor Freight sells a testing kit that I have used in the past. I would be trying to determine if the fuel pump had failed.

 

My security light is off when I crank the motor and my fuel pump does prime when I turn the key over I did diagnose that fuel is going all the way to my injectors because I primed my injectors when they were changed with an unclamped hose ... Oops
I realized now that my "service engine soon" light is on solid now

 

Crap... it looks like NATS*#**%$#*

 

I tried the Phillips type screw on the ECU to diagnose the problem and all I got was a p0802 which is crank shaft low input
but I replaced all the crankshafts and the camshaft sensors can it be the pigtail harness

 

i remember that i replaced upper and lower crank sensors and 1 of them didn't work at all with the aftermarket sensor ( upper ) and put the oem old sensor back on and she worked fine. but i have a 95

 

Unfortunately for me my old crank sensors are in the garbage I have an eBay crank sensor POS and I heard they work fine, I tested it with a multi meter and it seemed functional

 

Guys if I don't get my Maxima working there is a chance I will sell it on a different post I will explain everything that has been done to the car

 

Have you tried noid lights to see if the computer is actually activating the injectors? It very much sounds like the computer is killing your Injection.

 

After a little bit of research I will go ahead and try using noid lights tomorrow since my local Auto zone is closed and see what results I can get

 

A bad crankshaft position sensor in my car caused the exact symptoms you are experiencing. It never threw a code or anything.