Starting problem -- cranking not continuous
#1
Starting problem -- cranking not continuous
I am stumped and need some help as I am very frustrated.
Have been having intermittent (maybe 30-40% of the time) starting issues with my 1995 Maxima that is otherwise running well. When it is problematic: I turn on the ignition, it will start cranking but then pause and the start cranking again. Sometimes it will pause up to 3 times before I turn back the ignition to try again (I never crank over about 6 sec or so at a time). It is almost as if something is telling the starter to stop--like the engine thinks it may have fired up but hasn't yet. If I unplug either crank sensors or camshaft sensor, the starter cranks continuously and strong until you let off the ignition. The starting problem happens hot or cold.
I recently checked the fuel pressure with a gauge and it checks out fine. Previously, I ruled out crank REF sensor (resistance test), and due to replacement (or being fairly new) the following: starter (tried two different ones), battery, ground cables, ECTS, TB clean, base idle, spark plugs, flywheel timing ring (looked fine when I did the clutch).
I am thinking about just buying a crank POS sensor. Is this sensor only used for starting and not for running the car? Again, the car runs fine once started...full of gusto and power. I did not test it as I am not sure I have a good way of doing it. Has anyone tested this? Has anyone replaced this due to failure?
Alternatively, can someone enlighten me on what sensors are involved in starting up of the car? The pausing during cranking is the really noticeable thing. Most people's hard starting problems involve continuous cranking, but yet having a hard time firing up. I honestly think if the cranking were continuous, the car would have no trouble starting.
Please help.... I wish the thing would spit out a code already.
Have been having intermittent (maybe 30-40% of the time) starting issues with my 1995 Maxima that is otherwise running well. When it is problematic: I turn on the ignition, it will start cranking but then pause and the start cranking again. Sometimes it will pause up to 3 times before I turn back the ignition to try again (I never crank over about 6 sec or so at a time). It is almost as if something is telling the starter to stop--like the engine thinks it may have fired up but hasn't yet. If I unplug either crank sensors or camshaft sensor, the starter cranks continuously and strong until you let off the ignition. The starting problem happens hot or cold.
I recently checked the fuel pressure with a gauge and it checks out fine. Previously, I ruled out crank REF sensor (resistance test), and due to replacement (or being fairly new) the following: starter (tried two different ones), battery, ground cables, ECTS, TB clean, base idle, spark plugs, flywheel timing ring (looked fine when I did the clutch).
I am thinking about just buying a crank POS sensor. Is this sensor only used for starting and not for running the car? Again, the car runs fine once started...full of gusto and power. I did not test it as I am not sure I have a good way of doing it. Has anyone tested this? Has anyone replaced this due to failure?
Alternatively, can someone enlighten me on what sensors are involved in starting up of the car? The pausing during cranking is the really noticeable thing. Most people's hard starting problems involve continuous cranking, but yet having a hard time firing up. I honestly think if the cranking were continuous, the car would have no trouble starting.
Please help.... I wish the thing would spit out a code already.
#2
i actually replace my started today. i had the same symptoms as you. it would crank continuously but not turn over,and once it turns,it runs great. today it died out on me and only the dash lights came on. no more clicking or turning of the starter. it was easy to replace.took me about 30 minutes to replace the starter. hope this helped you.
#3
You didn't read his post did you?? He said he already replaced the starter. That's not it. The CPS (REF) which is the one below the crank pulley is the one that is not used after starting. The CPS (POS) which is the one by the flywheel/driveplate is the one you wanna take a look at. It might be the ignition switch. Just throwin ideas out there.
#4
So the CPS (POS) is still used by the engine after starting? The car runs fine after starting so that stumps me. I know the problem is becoming gradually more frequent so I believe that a sensor is slowly failing.
I never really questioned the ignition switch. I'll have to look at that. Thanks!
I never really questioned the ignition switch. I'll have to look at that. Thanks!
#10
clean your CPS (POS) first, just take the metal filings off it. it monitors the flywheel teeth, so any shavings are attracted by the magnet on the CPS and it gives it an incorrect signal
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09-07-2015 06:13 PM