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Transmission slipping after replacing fluid

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Old Dec 5, 2019 | 05:47 AM
  #1  
whubbs's Avatar
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Transmission slipping after replacing fluid

Hello everyone!

I'm new to the site, as we recently obtained a 98 Maxima with 200k+ miles for my son from a good friend, needed work so I took care of a few things and it was running sweet. (Love this car)

A couple weeks later my 16 yr old son slipped on wet leaves and put it onto a rock wall...

I couldn't let it just die, so I bought a same color 97 with a blown head gasket for $200 and swapped rims, fenders, bumper, doors air bags (passenger one was a nightmare) and a few other odds and ends.

I had to replace the trans and oil pans as they got punctured, but no damage within.


Last night I filled the fluids and fired it up. Everything was good until we drove it - my fears were recognized when the transmission slipped at starts from stop and sometimes between gears.

I had to replace the oil as it lost a bit and the in hindsight, the bucket I put it in was dirty and I think we drained some brake cleaner into it too...

The old oil was definitely burnt and the magnets were loaded with filings.


So, outside of some remaining leaks that need to get fixed on oil pan (I always over torque those cork gaskets) and power steering pump pressure line;

Does anyone have any recommendations to remedy the transmission slip?

Any conditioner I can add to it? Maybe reintroduce some of the old crappy oil?

I was thinking of maybe swapping the transmission from the other car, it has 200+ miles and the oil is black too


Thanks in advance!

Wayne
Old Dec 5, 2019 | 06:14 AM
  #2  
Jason Chrest's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2019
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From: Mississippi
I had watched this a few weeks ago from Chris Fix. Talks about how sometimes the gunk in the bad fluid actually was helping it keep from slipping and shows why.

Skip ahead to about the 5 minute mark.
Old Dec 5, 2019 | 12:15 PM
  #3  
MadMax07SL's Avatar
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That's a great video!
Old Dec 5, 2019 | 05:04 PM
  #4  
JvG's Avatar
JvG
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,974
From: Portland, Oregon
Unfortunately, you probably need to find another transmission.

The dirty crud and especially the brake fluid should never enter the transmission. Brake fluid probably helped dissolve any remaining friction surfaces in the internal clutch pack.

Seems like the rest of the friction material was on the magnets and in the pan. The transmission was close to dead when you bought the car.
​​​​
The fluid color in the other transmission means that it's also close to death.

You should be able to get a better transmission from a wrecking yard.

You seem willing to install another transmission.

I hope your luck will impove soon.

Last edited by JvG; Dec 5, 2019 at 05:16 PM.
Old Dec 7, 2019 | 04:18 PM
  #5  
whubbs's Avatar
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JVG - I didn't pour the old stuff with brake cleaner in. I ended up topping off a few times with the DexIII (actually took 7 quarts) and now reading correct on dipstick and running great...
Of course, now a couple other annoying issues;

Looks like upper oil pan is leaking BAD. Running right down over the crank position sensor, thought it was the lower, but it is definitely coming from the upper area and seems like a lot. I'm hoping the block or aluminum pan isn't cracked, as the lower pan did get damaged when the car was on top of the rock wall from the accident.
Looks like an upper pan gasket job is on my future
As well as a newly cracked CV joint boot that is spitting grease all over the wheel.

I'm afraid this is turning into a major project.

Thanks for the advice
Old Dec 7, 2019 | 06:44 PM
  #6  
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JvG
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Portland, Oregon
Seems like the transmission is going to be ok for now.

Perhaps the upper oil pan gasket gave way because the block was still moving foreward after the pan stopped because of the wall. I suppose it could have cracked the block. No way to know till you are in there.

I'm a bit concerned about how all this might be affecting your son. This experience might scare him away from wanting to learn car repair.

​​​​​​I tried to introduce my son to car repair when he was 15 or 16. He had already seen some of my previous heavy duty car repair projects.

I tried to have him learn the basic maintaince tasks first, then things like replacing water pumps on cars.

He told me that he does not want to learn any of this stuff. He wants to avoid it.
He is in his mid 30s now. He does not own a car.
He can't afford a new car, or an older one which he would have to pay a mechanic to take care of.

I respect your determination to salvage the car and make it relliable. It can be done, but perhaps another 4th Gen maxima in better condition might be a better option.

Your son had an accident which is normal for new drivers, and many seasoned ones as well. I've also had a car slide on wet leaves. It was quite a surprise.

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Last edited by JvG; Dec 7, 2019 at 06:46 PM. Reason: Additional comment added.
Old Dec 8, 2019 | 11:27 AM
  #7  
CS_AR's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,037
From: Central AR
Originally Posted by whubbs
JVG - I didn't pour the old stuff with brake cleaner in. I ended up topping off a few times with the DexIII (actually took 7 quarts) and now reading correct on dipstick and running great...
Of course, now a couple other annoying issues;

Looks like upper oil pan is leaking BAD. Running right down over the crank position sensor, thought it was the lower, but it is definitely coming from the upper area and seems like a lot. I'm hoping the block or aluminum pan isn't cracked, as the lower pan did get damaged when the car was on top of the rock wall from the accident.
Looks like an upper pan gasket job is on my future
As well as a newly cracked CV joint boot that is spitting grease all over the wheel.

I'm afraid this is turning into a major project.

Thanks for the advice
I usually start with valve cover gaskets on new 4gh gen purchase and work down. The upper oil pan is sealed using RTV. It is not a small job. Be sure to replace the axle seals when doing anything with the CV axles. No time to rework seals after a CV job.
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