I have a 2003 Maxima maxima with a Manual transmission, and blew the motor. Then my dad wrecked his 2006 maxima auto, so I had a free motor. I already completed this swap, but I figured I’d share what I came across to make people’s life’s easier. Just a heads up, a lot of parts are going to be going everywhere in your garage, so don’t lose stuff, get organized, will be make it a hell of a lot easier. Mainly separate what to keep and don’t keep.

Everything that needs to be swapped:

—alternator: plugs were different, and don’t lose the sub wire harness for it, you’ll end up very confused.

—starter: just needs to be swapped

—a/c compressor: just unbolt, don’t disconnect. Also you’re only motor has a bracket for it, you’ll need that.

—upper oil pan: lower oil pan looked the same to me, but still didn’t swap it, didn’t see the point in trying. I also kept the baffle on the new motor, figured new motor better design.

—oil filter housing: I think just the rear line needs to be swapped, but I swapped the whole thing. Problem was the line was too long. Old motor has brackets for the old line too

—knock sensor: the knock sensor is different, but the main problem is the wire harness from the new motor, it’s very different. So you’ll have to use the old harness too. My advice, don’t ever unplug the the harness from the sensor, I’ve broken them many times from just disconnecting then.

—Wire harness (cam sensors): everything needs to be the same on the old motor as the new. so I would take notes. I’ve already listed the alternator and knock sensor harness, but the rear cam sensor harness needs to be swap over too, because the new one has the knock sensor and cam sensor tied to it. Also, don’t disconnect the hardness from the cam sensor one the old motor, just unbolt it if you can, it will break if you try. Also, the crank sensor and harness needs to be swapped over, so don’t bother disconnecting it. This one won’t break, but will just be harder to lose if you don’t.

—exhaust: I couldn’t get my exhaust to separate except for the front cat from the j pipe, so I took it off at the resonator, and it came out with the motor. Also, all the o2 sensors need to be swapped, so don’t use your Milwaukee impact to get them out. When they spin around in circles that fast, they hit something like your face and break... ask me how I know. Anyways, I took my exhaust off at the headers, and swapped it over, and just used copper rtv gasket spray on the old gaskets. What’s different is the rear exhaust manifold on the new motor has an Egr and yours doesn’t. Also both front and rear cats are different. Also, your flex pipe might be shot, just a heads up.

—Cv axles: just a tip to getting the passenger one, don’t try and hook a comalong to your xterra, and then try beating it out from the other side. Doesn’t come out that way, it separates from this little housing that is bolted to the back of the block, which I don’t think needs to be swapped, but did it anyways. The cv axle separates using 3 bolts that are hard to get to, that are on housing. Then get a flathead you don’t care about and hammer it in were your cv connects to the housing. It’ll take a lot of hammering and a pry bar, but you’ll get it that way. Use some sort of lubricant to put it back in too. These cv axles are hard to find, took me a while to find a new one in my area.

—intake plenum: needs to be swapped cause the new one has an Egr on it.

—Injectors: I swapped in the new injectors because lower miles, and they looked better. I’m pretty sure they gave me a little more fuel too, because now it back fires hard at limit when you let off. Also probably cause I gutted my after cat, but still.

—power steering: your new power will have a line that is different, and from the looks, you can swap your old line to fit that pump, but I just swapped the whole pump.

—belts: I don’t remember which belts I had to use, I think the old belt for the power steering, new belt for the other belt. Could be wrong, but don’t lose the belts.

—coil packs: I used my old ones. They connect the same, just had different numbers on them, so I didn’t use the new ones, But I’m 100% sure you can use the new ones.

—fuel rail: needs the one from the old motor.

—front motor mount: needs to be swapped from old motor

-Gaskets to get: rear main, upper and lower oil pan, intake manifold and plenum. Can get exhaust gaskets if you want.

tips: get an engine stand, take the motor out from the bottom, have to jacks to jack up the car, have 2 wood palets, and keep clean and organized.

I think that’s it, lol. All in all, if I had this list, would’ve been a easier, but is still a really easy swap. Took me 2 weeks with work, and taking care of a puppy I just got, so not a lot of time on it.

Definitely worth the swap though. More power and a better motor overall. Spins 2nd on dry pavement more😁. I also have a Megan racing exhaust, a intake, and a stage 3 clutch, but I’m guessing the car is making 270-280hp Rn. Nothing crazy, will be a nice daily.

Anyways, any questions just ask.

 

aren't the 6th gen engines known for timing chain guide wear that leads to timing chain issues ? they are rated at 265 hp right ?

 

Basically, yes they are the same.