Ok...recently I changed the fuel injectors, replaced all the coil packs and plugs, replaced the IAVC, both upstream O2 sensors And crankshaft sensor Here’s the strange thing...when I first pulled the car out of the shop it RAN GREAT but the longer I drove it the worse things got.

now....it idles very rough and I have to put the car in neutral at stop lights. Thinking it may be a vacuum leak I double checked all vacuum hoses/limes and all was good so I then sprayed starter fluid around the engine hoping the engine would rev up which would indicate a leak but nothing happened.

No check engine light is on and no codes. Would a bad EGR Valve cause these issues?

thank you in advance for any help you can give

 

Have you verified your CE light bulb is working correctly? Does it light up when you turn the key the ON / ACC position? I had a rough idle once with no CE but later I figured out my CE bulb had burned out.

Assuming the CE bulb is working, double-check all of your connectors are plugged in. The coil packs can be finicky and hard to 'click' properly. Also, make sure the MAF/IACV connectors are all plugged in.
You mentioned you checked all of your vacuum lines, so that leads me to believe that either a coilpack has gone bad or one the fuel injectors you installed is faulty.

Speaking from experience, I had replaced all the parts that you mentioned, and the day after, the car began misfiring like crazy and had the same symptoms you described. My fix was changing out a fuel injector (that I had just REPLACED) in which the cylinder was misfiring in.

Also I dont think the EGR valve would causing you issues, you replaced alot of components that involve fuel/spark so I am inclined to believe that your problem lies within the parts that you replaced. If any other member could weigh-in about the EGR valve that would be sweet.
Maybe you didn't assemble everything correcty? A vacuum leak could certainly be the culprit as well.

Good luck!

 

I agree with AQ12, double check all your work. Loose spark plug(s)? Loose plug wires / coil packs? Did you save the old coil packs (so you can put those that are known good or suspected good back in place to see if a new coil pack has already died)?

Another possibility is that some dirt got into the fuel system when you replaced all the injectors, and now that dirt is clogging up one or more injector.

 

... malformed injector O-ring due to improper/insufficient O-ring lubrication on installation.

 

Did you install a new intake manifold gasket between the upper and lower intake manifold?

Some members reinstall the old one. Doing so can result in a vacuum leak there. Symtoms are like yours.

 

Very well could be.

Read this thread. T/his guy had to re-install his injectors 2 or 3 times to get it right.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...tor-issue.html

 

Another good suggestion, especially if it's the original gasket and it's super hard and brittle. Hopefully he torqued it down to FSM spec, and in the correct sequence.

 

take it from somebody who replaced almost everything, coils and improperly installed or bad injectors are where your main focus should be. i almost bet that 1 or more coils are shot or that 1 or more injectors might have been installed improperly as others have said. check them first. if the seals are ripped or you smell gas, then that can cause a major issue, get back to us after you check.

 

Ok guys...I’m at my wits end. Replaced all new coil packs, new plugs, fuel filter and a new MAF sensor and she still runs like crap.

With the engine running and To check for vacuum leaks I sprayed starter fluid/ether all over that engine hoping to hear the engine rev up which would indicate a vacuum leak but the engine NEVER revved up at all.

I looked at all hoses and clamps...all are installed correctly so I guess I’ll replace the front 3 fuel injectors and see what happens. What about the cat converter or EGR valve?

a big THANK YOU for all for your responses. By the way....I’ve invented several new swear words during this process. I’d be more than happy to email those to you. .

 

Fuel pressure regulator? I think a bad EGR valve would set off the CEL. You can test the EGR valve by pressing up on the diaphragm while the car idles, it should stall. Did you completely rule out the injectors?

 

Dont forget to lubricate the o-rings friend. I used engine oil when I did mine. Maybe try replacing 1 at a time? that might help pinpointing down the faulty injector.

 

Would a clogged/restricted cat converter cause the engine to run like it’s missing? Standing behind the exhaust I hear a putt-putt-putt sound.

 

Still no CEL? Hook up a scan tool anyway and check for codes. You can tap on the bottom of the catalytic converter to hear for a rattle. If it rattles, your cat is done for.

 

No check engine light at all but I’ll go ahead and hook up the good ol’ OBDII reader and see what she says.

 

Put the code reader on and it returned the p 1335 error code which is the crank sensor.

I put a new crank sensor on a few weeks ago and don’t think a bad crank sensor would make the engine run this bad....or am I wrong?

 

Did you replace it with an OEM sensor? A bad crank position sensor will cause the engine to lose power and possibly stall.

 

Kinda off topic but how many cat converters does my 95 Maxima have? Dude at the muffler shop said my car has 3 converters

 

You have a main cat and two pre-cats that are part of the y-pipe.

 

Ok....I may be getting close. I was just told by the Local Nissan dealership that my 95 Maxima has two crank position sensors. I changed the sensor that’s behind the front pax side tire but where is the other sensor located at?

 

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post9048140

 

The other crank sensor is right in the middle of the engine/trans behind the radiator where the flywheel is. You'll see it better from below the car it's kinda low down in there. That's probably your issue if you're pulling a code for it, maybe just part of your issue if you're dealing with clogged injectors or they weren't lubed right on install. Lubed up the injectors will kinda pop cleanly into place. Fix your sensor code and then if need be rent a pressure gauge and run some injector cleaner through if it seems like it's worth a try

 

SA-WEEEET! The 1335 is the code I’ve been getting but was changing the wrong sensor. The new sensor will be here tomorrow. Hopefully this is the answer. THANK YOU for all the help.

 

Did not work! I replaced the crank sensor but that did not help at all. Hoping for an answer, and I was creating cus words, I decided to take the car to the local Nissan dealership for a diagnosis.

here’s a recap. One morning the car is hard to start, white smoke is coming from the tail pipe and a strong gas odor along with a very rough idle.

I change the fuel injecytors, coil packs, plugs, fuel filter, MAF, both crank sensors and the car ran GREAT for about a month. One day the engine is hard to start but quickly corrected itself. As the days go by the problems gets worse until the engine runs rough and idles very hard.

the dealership just called and told me the engine has low compression and needs a new engine. I DONT BELIEVE THAT! No smoke coming from the exhaust and it’s not burning oil.

there are only two other components that could have failed so here’s my question. Would a bad fuel pump cause the engine to idle real hard? What about a bad EGR valve?

im not giving up on this car. I don’t think the rings are bad. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Do your own compression test to confirm what the dealer is saying. You can rent the needed tools from autozone for free.
A million things can cause a car to idle rough, including a failing or bad fuel pump.
And just because you replaced many parts, don't rule those out! Re-check/test/inspect!

 

I don’t suppose you removed, inspected, re-ringed and re-seated the fuel injectors did you?

 

Replaced the Fuel Injector and Coil Packs?

That's a broad statement and all are not created equal.

In fact, the majority of what's available at a reasonable price are garbage. Especially the new injectors from China. Sweet price..... Bad aftertaste.

If you do a search here, you'll find the few options that are more reliable. Most present problems immediately or in the near future.

 

We have already suggested re-checking the injectors, OP doesn't seem to want to acknowledge and double check.

 

Defiance? I think it's contagious and at epidemic proportions as of late. LOL

 

The car was running nice when it was cold and as it warmed up and the car supposedly started to run rough and misfire. It's possible that the o-rings have been worn out or improperly seated and they are causing the misfire when the o-ring weakend they start to allow the fuel to leak in more and you will see the leak and smell the fuel leak. The other problem is the head gasket or engine compression check the oil dipstick for mixing of oil and coolant for headgasket issues. The one thing i am sure assuming that the engine might have a low compression that can cause the misfire also the worn rings secure the piston and the engine wall blocks from losing air compression thats the so called HP. This case you will also noticed spark plugs with oil and extreme heat wear in the plugs. The starter fluid on the egr and manifold area with the engine running will either help the engine idle better, if it were the issues with the vacuum leaks. I did a tune up on a 03 max that was known for compression loss and it was doing the same exact thing as your describing and he apparently needed a new engine blowing black smoke out the tail pipe. The headgasket issue can be minor or major depends on the outcome and symptoms of your problems on the engine. The oil not mixing but blowing smoke out the tailpipe and some cases will drink coolant. The best advice here is do what wizard and the crew suggested and do make sure that you check the compression again and the egr pipe by the manifold and spray starter or brake fluid that will let you know ,if you have the leaks. Good luck.

 

since they mentioned the car ran great for a month after the maintenance work, i would be pretty surprised if it was a bhg.
i would be betting on an injector issue; either a bad rebuilt unit or installation error.

 

There is a reason some of us have our oem injectors rebuilt.

They will remain in better condition than cheap afremarket ones.
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Many aftermarket coils don't last.

Make sure to take a compression reading. The throttle should be wide open. Remove the fuel pump fuse before you start.

the head gasket's seldom fail unless the engine had been over heated.

This forum has seen its share of a perfectly good head gasket being blamed for an internal water pump leak, bad injectors, etc.

Some members have installed crap parts, installed good parts incorrectly, etc.

Those of us who give advice have either made similar mistakes ourselves, or have read about similar stories past members have had during the last ten years or more.

Don't assume that an issue can't possibly be due to something you just thought you fixed.

Retrace your steps.