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Stalling at idle-operational temp reached

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Old Apr 19, 2021 | 01:59 AM
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Stalling at idle-operational temp reached

Hello all, new member here with a difficult Maxima A32. Original owner & I'm really hoping someone can help before I reach for the axe.


The car starts fine and idles well. I take it for a drive and while the temp gauge travels from cold to operational temp there are no problems.

Its when the car reaches operational temp and the radiator fan comes on at idle the car stalls.

I think it only happens when the single fan (passenger side USA, Driver side AU). If both fans power on there is no stalling. I can turn on the AC and power both fans- again no stalling.

If the car drives on with no stopping for say 10 min the car again has no issues and runs like a trooper.

I have replaced MAF, cleaned throttle body and IACV, replaced RAD FAN 3 relay.


Does any Maxima A32 expert know whats going on? I'd really love to know, otherwise the wife and kids are going to win and I really don't want them to have that satisfaction...


Looking forward to your expertise.
Old Apr 20, 2021 | 04:06 PM
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There could be several reason and causes for this. Diagnose the car, don't just fire the parts cannon at it.
If you don't have a scan tool, go get one. What I look at is the live data to see if something is dropping out when hot.

You need to attempt to duplicate the problem. Could be grounds, could be a loose splice pack at the battery cable lots of things.

I would start with the good old wiggle test, On all wiring and grounds you can reach.
Old Apr 21, 2021 | 06:59 AM
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Could be a bad idle control valve....or dirty....
Old Apr 21, 2021 | 07:16 AM
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Inaccurate Fuel Quantity Indicator

Anyone ever took this to a speedometer/instrument repair shop and let them fix a notorious Nissan Instrument panel component? My 4th Gen has had this problem and now my 5th Gen Fuel indicator is moving really slow I'm scared to try to fix it and make it worse!
Old Apr 22, 2021 | 12:54 AM
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It sounds like an classic ECTS that can't sense the cars operating temps so they fans on at all times cars cuts off or won't start till it's cool below operating temps. I am sure 90% it's the ECTS and get codes and post codes in the mean time.
Old Apr 22, 2021 | 08:49 AM
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Could be as simple as a vacuum hose splitting open. Duriuing warm up, the mix is supplemented to get the car to operating temp. As soon as it's there, it feeds a more finite amount of gas and the extra air getting into the system might be too much to adapt to.

Based on what year, the vacuum hoses are at least 22 years old.

Probably a good place to start.
Old Apr 23, 2021 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by KP11520
Could be as simple as a vacuum hose splitting open. Duriuing warm up, the mix is supplemented to get the car to operating temp. As soon as it's there, it feeds a more finite amount of gas and the extra air getting into the system might be too much to adapt to.

Based on what year, the vacuum hoses are at least 22 years old.

Probably a good place to start.
Had this issue on my 98 Q45. There was a split hose leading to the EGR. However, the actually cause of the issue was the intake manifold gasket sucking in air. I thought it was made of hard plastic, until I ordered a new one and it was supposed to be flexible rubber lol.
Old Apr 25, 2021 | 01:14 AM
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Solved, thanks VQmaxman the bloody coolant temp sensor. I had a sneaky suspicion this was the culprit too.
Ordered one $20 and the car sings again.
The car is a 1995 A32. The thing is the original sensor went for 23 years and 2 years ago I had to replace the ECTS.
However it was completely different symptoms then to now.
The first time it would stall at cold engine temp. Work its way to operating temp and then soldier on.
This time The car would operate at cold engine temp, get to operating temp then for the next 5-10 min have an intermittent flutter and sometimes stall when coming off the gas. After that it would solder on.
I had a suspicion the symptoms overlapped but with your help talking it out on this forum helped me to collect my thoughts and do right. So big thanks to you.
Now I have to replace muffler, new tires, replace front shock mounts, new stereo,............
Old Apr 26, 2021 | 05:37 PM
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Not a problem, i am glad that i was able to help.
Old May 5, 2021 | 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MovingAhead
Solved, thanks VQmaxman the bloody coolant temp sensor.......
May I ask: did you get any codes for the sensor? What lead you to this, and did you replace both coolant temp sensors or just the one for the gauge? I’m aware there’s 2 of them. Asking because my issue is somewhat similar, though it can stall out even when cold. But seems to do so especially immediately after reaching op temperature. But I’ve changed one of the cooling sensors already. Maybe I’ll try the other for the gauge.
Old May 10, 2021 | 01:12 AM
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The rear sensor- ECU temp sensor (not my pic)

Looks like this

2 years ago I changed the sensor. The car would stall and fart when cold.
This time it would stall when reaching op temp.
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