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Give me some feedback to make it better.

 

Pics would be nice.

But overall it's good. Just do away with the animated gif and just make the "Warning" text larger. IMO, animated gifs are kinda tacky.

Good job!

 

Pictures are there but you have to click on the 'blue' hypertext links...

I like the tacky warning ... I just want to make sure people understand that this is something to be taken seriously... not like a LED install which won't kill you if you mess it up...

I'll revise these two pages with FRAMES later... I don't have a lot of time right now.

 

Tacky animated GIF taken out by request from Clee130

 

Write up looks good to me Chunger. Brake jobs are one of the easier things to comprehend before doing them, but there's no better way to learn than by doing The only question I have is on the rear brakes people talk about lining up the slots in the caliper with something. Off the top of my head I think I've seen it said that you need to line it up with a pin on the shims or something. Any input on that?
-hype

 

Nice write-up. Good pics with clear notations...

One question...is it possible to permanently remove those dust shields that cover the rotor? I've never done brake work before and was just curious.

 

I haven't heard of having to line up anything before...

ljl10, you probably can cut them like what I did on my fronts... click on the Wilwood link in my signature.

 

Dude, your site just saved my ***...i was stuck on how to get the pads to fit over the rotor and whamo...there it was your site..

Thanks!!!

 

I like everything except for the layout, but that's not really a big deal. Great write up.

 

I have done my front brakes and had to use that C clamp to get the calipers back into place.

Do you have to do that to the rear also?

Or does the rear calipers just fit together without pressure.

K.

 

You do have to line up one of the slots so that it will stay clear of the little pin on the back of the inner pad. The easiest way to that is to mark the position of one of the slots on the piston with just a little bit of that anti-squeal goo.

If you have not changed your pads for a while, it would be a good idea to scrub the two retaining clips & the anti-rattle spring with a brass brush and brake cleaner. I followed the directions in Haynes manual and re-greased the caliper bracket pin as well.

 

Kinda old thread....

Hmmm... I never had to 'line up' anything on the 4 rear pad replacements I've done on the Maxima... Then again, the pads I put in were not Nissan ones. I don't recall seeing anything protruding on the inner pad's backing.

Lefty... you have to 'screw' the piston back in... see the website.

I noticed that someone else had a website up on rear brakepad replacement too... I don't remember the url or who did it. It had some more detailed steps than my webpage...

Nick, I just duplicated my Wilwood page cuz I was in a big hurry to throw the webpage up... Maybe one of these days I'll update both webpages with frames... Too busy now...er, lazy, that is.

 

Good of you to put your information there for all to see. Seeing a different explanation helps clarify things.
A helpful hint to include, which novices might not think of, is to break loose the lug nuts before jacking the car. Also, I like to put a little anti-seize on the lug nuts when I put the wheels back on. Changing a flat tire with corroded lug nuts using the original equipent tire changing equipment is no fun. Thanks.

 

I just bought a floor jack and some stands the other day, and this was going to be one of my first projects. Nice write up and good clear pics. How long will the site be up? Should I go ahead and save the all the info today or will it be there for about a week or so?

 

kvzeyde: I'll try to add your helpful comments... Thanks!

BlancMax: The site will remain up... barring me cancelling my ISP provider. Even if that happens, I'll probably host it at work and post a new link.