I'm going to be getting AGX's and H&R's. I've got 180,000 miles.
from what I read it sounds like some kind of coil wrap should be used. so my question is do the home depot wire wrap or buy the oem isolation sleeves? Posts advocate doing both, none discuss which is better.

I'm also going to be buying new dust boots, but i'm not too sure if I should get new strut bearings, strut spacers, and the other stuff.

 

i installed the H&R's and AGX's about 6 wks ago. i replaced all the internals with new OEM parts except for the strut mounts and strut bearing (they are KYB). i used the spiral wrap from radion shack and the lower spring isolation sleave for the stock springs. until this weekend, i did not have any noise/problems. i now have a little noise from the left front strut that i believe to be the KYB strut bearing. now i wish i would have replaced with OEM parts. oh well, live and learn.

with your mileage, you should probably replace all rubber parts, i.e. strut mounts, bearings, and boots and the mount gaskets. inspect other parts for unusual wear. spiral wrap works well, or you could just order 3 lower isolation sleaves per spring. (they don't sell the upper sleaves separate).

 

I have/would use the 3/4" spiral wrap... Check for a picture on one of the sticky threads. I bought mine from an electrical shop (Mar Vac) but you may find it at Fry's Electronic as well (I'm not sure, though). Each pack has 5', you could just use 1 pack but I used 2.

 

And I'm a bit confused too. Can someone form an entire list of all the things that may be replaced? Perhaps an exploded view drawing?

Thanks
Al

 

here you go, this might help.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ion+njmaxseltd

 

Go with the OEM parts. You can't go wrong there. Spiral wrap will ware through quickly. It's not exactly designed to be on our springs. The OEM sleves are.

 

I don't agree with that. the spiral wraps are tougher than our oem sleevs.Buy them at the walmart auto dept for $1.98.it can't wear off as they do not move.Use a good adhesive to stick them onto the coils.Be sure to clean everything else before you reassemble.I personally recommend changing the strut bearings and the boots if not anything else.You can use a good engine degreaser to clean the suspension components and be careful with those springs!

good luck,
Jay

 

I'll comment on one part of your Q:

With 180 k mi on your OEM suspension, you should definitely replace the strut bearings & strut mounts at the very least. Replace spacers and other parts at your discretion, but you've got a lot of miles on there & it probably wouldn't hurt to replace anything rubber. After 180k mi, it's all pretty tired.

Fyi, I replaced my suspension at 82k mi & thought I'd save a few bucks by not replacing the OEM front strut mounts with new ones. Long story short: 1 front mount failed 2 weeks after the install & I'm re-doing my front suspension this week to get new replacement mounts installed.

So, it's your call, but I think you now know my opinion. Best of luck.

 

I'm doing that install right now.... same AGX/H&R setup on a 98 SE w/ 80k miles.

I'm using someone elses suggestion of using 5/8 ID PVC tubing pulled over the second-third coil of the spring. Strong, total coverage. Can't fall off.. And it worked for the guy that tried it so far.

I'm just replacing the two front strut bearings, all four dustboots, springs and struts. A lot of the other parts would be nice but many are on factory backorder with no release date... But for a car with 180,000 you might want to order everything and wait...

I just pulled the front struts out last night, no problem so far. Now I'll just try not to kill myself with the spring compressors.

Let me know how you make out...

-RMB
rmb@angelfire.com

 

That's me! I'm the guy that it has worked for.

Courtesy Nissan has them in stock, that is if they get your order right, of course. (Had a little mix-up recently - but they're taking care of it.)

 

I would definitely recommend replacing the rubber parts mentioned in numerous threads as well as the front strut bearings. Also if you are getting KYBs I would NOT use the front strut bearing; I think the OEM bearing is better in this case. If your car is very high mileage front strut mounts are a good idea, but I'm still not sure which is better KYB or OEM. I went with KYB everything (front mounts, strut bearing, dust boots, AGXs) and I still have noise due to the springs most likely. I wrapped the springs but they still "pop" so I'm thinking they aren't seated correctly. If I let the car sit for a week and drive it a day there is no popping, but the more I drive the more it comes back.
-hype

 

Some of those parts don't look right (at least for the front)... I'll check my FSM tonight... I don't think there is that lower strut nut amoung other things... i could be wrong though.

 

I think you're right about that Chunger. I don't have any manuals with me here, but I used this to get an idea before I did my spring install (I think I got it from a VW site). Overall it helps to be able to see a diagram before you start taking things apart. I wish I had a FSM but I didn't I think the diagram is right except for that extra nut though. Maybe someone can scan the FSM page since we get so many suspension questions
-hype

 

I have the FSM for the '97. It has an exploded (I just found out...heehee) view. I'm going to try and scan it in. Could one of you fellas point the parts out when I post? Thanks

AL

 

Here are the URLs for the front and rear suspension...they are in JPEG format:

FRONT

AND

REAR

Can someone point out by the numbers which parts should be changed since different people refer to parts with different names?

Thanks
AL

 

If I could see either picture I could comment on it. Email me and I'll host the pictures and let you know what you need
hype@vanillaice.com
-hype

 

Email me(msue@calstatela.edu) the jpegs and I'll host them for you... we can't see them.

 

Has anyone tried using two layers of heat shrink? That should work pretty well! It should fit nice and tight once you apply heat.

 

How would you do this? Please explain. Genuinely interested in understanding. . .

 

Heat shrink can be purchased at places like Radioshack. They are basically black (sometimes clear or white) rubber tubes. If you can slide them over the spring coil, they'll work pretty well. Slide one on (about 5-6 inches in length). Use a heat gun, soldering iron or some other heat source to shrink it on. It will be a nice tight fit. Slide another one over the first if you are not comforable with one and do the same. It will shrink to fit and should be pretty tight. It will look pretty good too if done right. Depending on the springs, you may or may not be able to slide the heatshrink onto the coils.

 

I think 3/4" spiral wrap is cheaper (<$5) and easier to install. It can be put one without removing springs and using a heat gun twice...

 

Here are the pics:

 

On the fronts you want to replace:
2 - #7 (Dust Boots)
2 - #4 (Front strut bearing)
Optional - #9 (Polyurethane isolators), #2 (Front strut mount)

Rears:
2 - #9 ( Dust Boots)
2 - #7 (Rear isolator bushing)

That should do it. I replaced my front strut bearings, dust boots, and front strut mounts and everything went well (except I still have noise after wrapping everything). I use the viynl tubing and wrapped everything, but I think my springs may not be seated correctly because they still "pop". Also when tightening the bolt at the bottom of the strut push in as hard as you can (towards the center of the car) while you tighten the bolt. This will help get your camber correct since that isn't specified as adujustable in our alignment. I pushed in on both sides and got my camber perfectly even on both sides at -.9 degrees
Hope that helps.
-hype

 

I changed my springs/stuts/shocks to H&R's and KYB/AGX a couple weeks ago. I did the swap with 99,000 miles on my max. From the diagram shown above these were the parts that were either damaged or shown signs of wear on my max.

Front: (1) spacer, (2) strut mount, (4) bearing, (6) spring seat, (7) boot, (9) isolator sleeve.

Rear: (3) rubber bushing, (4) spacer, (6) spring seat, (7) rubber bushing, (9) boot and I don't see the # for the isolator sleeve.

If you have not replaced your sway bar end link bushings and sway bar bushings now would be a good time to do it. My sway bar bushings came out in pieces.

 

Refering to the two diagrams I (and xHypex and Chunger) posted...

THe parts associate told me that the only parts that need to be changed are...

FRONT SUSPENSION
#2 and #7

REAR SUSPENSION
#5, #6 and #9

Some contradiction here...though I definitely don't think they know much about our mods. He was giving some crap about how I might have to order SE (instead of GXE) parts because the AGXs are heavier like the SE struts.


Coincidentally, do the OEM dust boots fit the AGXs? Or do the KYB boots fit better? I remember reading something about trimming bump stops...are these the ones attached to the dust boots?

Thanks
Al

 

What about the front strut bearing #4? That's probably the most importatnt part. Front strut mounts are recommended for higher mileage cars, but KYB also makes mounts.

#5 and #6 aren't even rubber parts. He also left out the rubber rear isolation bushing.

SE/GXE parts should be identical so it wouldn't matter.


I do believe the OEM dust boots fit, but they have to be cut. The KYB dust boots are made for the AGXs so they are already the correct size.

There's my take
-hype

 

Yes, the OEM dust boots fit - You want these because the OEM boot makes a nice seal at the top of the strut assembly, where I have read the KYB does not & has to be secured in place w/ zip ties.

The bumpstop is integrated into the OEM dustboot, but is a separate molded urethane piece, which can be removed from the inside of the rubber dustboot, trimmed & reinstalled to allow for lowering springs' reduced ride height.

Definitely get the OEMS on this - much cleaner install. I'd also go with the OEM strut mounts over the KYB's, but that's just my opinion.

YMMV

 

The KYB fits at the top just like the OEM dust boots, but has a zip tie at the bottom. I got KYBs because I didn't want to guess when I cut the bumpstop. My OEM dust boots were also shot when I took them off at less than 50k. I wanted to replace as much as I could so I wouldn't have to do this again later on.

The KYB front strut mounts may not be worth it, but they are supposed to be a firmer rubber than stock. OEM front mounts are as expensive (or almost as expensive) as the KYB front mounts too.
-hype

 

Thanks for the clarification. By your description, there should be no difference between the dustboots, anyway, except that the KYB's come with shorter bumpstops pre-installed. Cutting the OEM's was no big deal (for ne1 reading this) -took me 5 mins per side & the spot to cut is pretty obvious.

On the strut mounts: depends what you're after, I guess. I've heard some people say that the KYB's are a bit on the noisy/harsh side on account of the harder rubber compound. Did you notice a big difference when you went from OEM to the KYB mounts?

Thx.

 

No extra noise/harshness at all to my knowledge. I still have some spring noise (I think they didn't seat correctly), but other than that everything is good. I installed B+Gs, AGXs, the front mounts, and Energy Suspension bushings. I can't tell you exactly what did what, but I like my ride. I would have bought OEM dust boots, but their durability did not impress me when I checked the ones on my car.
-hype

 

how come all you guys have noises from your springs?? Ive had mine for 3yrs and not one noise at all!! thats on all factory equipment expecpt for the Tokico blues.

Ant

 

Mine were SHREDDED, too. Unbelievable. Nissan went with a completely different/redesigned dustboot than the ones you and I pulled off our cars. The new 1 is much thicker/sturdier - I don't think there will be the same longevity issues as w/ the factory OEM boots.

 

If that's the case when did they redesign them? I have a '99 so they may have already been on my car It doesn't seem like they'd redesign the boots after the life of the A32.
-hype

 

Dunno. Def. a totally different boot, though.

 

Here's my dust boots


Here's more pictures. I don't have too many, but at least it's some
http://bba01.bus.utexas.edu/Matthew.Quon/max/bg.htm
-hype

 

#5 and #6 aren't even rubber parts. He also left out the rubber rear isolation bushing.

For the rear shock #6 is a rubber part.

 

My visit to the dealer wasn't to dispute your advice...please don't be offended.

 

I've read all the related posts and the general consensus seems to fall on these parts for replacement:

FRONT
1, 2, 4, 7 and 9

REAR
3, 4, 6, 7, 9 and isolation sleeves to wrap the springs (not shown in diagram)

Some have included these parts as well:

FRONT
5 and 6

REAR
2

Sorry to have been such a pain in the butt, thanks for all the help.

AL

 

Albertt no offense taken Sometimes parts guys are very helpful, and other times they don't always give you the best information. In the end as long as you are happy with your suspension that's what matters. Good luck on the install.
-hype