Replacing your taillights with painted Altezzas -- Part 1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 724
Replacing your taillights with painted Altezzas -- Part 1
Well, the weather finally cooperated and I was able to finish painting my Altezzas. It was an interesting job, filled with its own quirks. I found the write-ups that others have done to be rather "sketchy", so I did my own. Here goes:
Painting Altezza tail lights for the Maxima (by Gary95 - Maxima.org)
================================================== ==================
Warning: This is not an easy task, if you want to do it right. Take your time and follow the instructions carefully.
1. Masking
The first step in this process is to mask the visible areas (not to be painted) on the taillights. Each Altezza light unit has an illumination lens surrounded by chromed plastic. Masking the inner units is easy, because the shape is rather simple--a basic circle, with a slight indentation on the lower half on the 95-96 version. The outer light units are more complicated, because the visible area of the lens is curved and there are also side marker lights. Here is the basic procedure I followed:
a) Create paper templates for masking the visible areas (you may need to do this more than once to get the desired shape), one for the inner lens, and one for the outer lens (to go from right-side to the left-side or vice versa, simply flip over the templates). For the outer lens, I created a circle with an ellipse attached (for the side marker). To create the circles, I measured the radius of the visible lens area and used a compass to create the shape. If you're lucky to find a plastic bowl of roughly the same size, that will do as well.
b) Place the templates on the taillight surfaces and make 4 alignment markings on the templates and the lens (3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions). I put two small pieces of double-sided tape on the back of the templates to help keep them from slipping. Make sure the markings on the lens will still be visible after the masking tape is applied.
c) Apply painter's masking tape to the tail lights, overlapping the visible areas by at least 1/4".
d) Attach the templates, align to the marks, and draw the outlines with a permanent marker.
e) Remove the templates, and cut along the outlines with a small sharp knife. Don't press too hard, to avoid scoring the clear plastic beneath.
f) Remove the excess masking tape to reveal the intended shapes for the visible areas.
2. Sanding
You MUST sand the surface of the clear plastic lens that will be painted over. If you do not do this, the primer won't adhere properly and will bubble up when drying. I used a light weight sandpaper, to avoid noticeable scratch marks. Don't be afraid to rub hard, and make sure to get the areas near the edges of the masking tape. Once you have a nice "hazy" look to the plastic, you're finished. Take a wet paper towel and remove the plastic dust layer.
3. Prepping
Take the painter's masking tape and mask off the inside part of the outer edges of the taillights. There is some black insulating foam with sticky black adhesive along some of the edges--make sure you protect it, or else you'll have to paint it later on. This step is to avoid unwanted paint spray getting on the back side of the taillight (and possibly inside the housing).
4. Priming
Clean the taillight surfaces, making sure there are no dust particles. Apply several coats of primer to the taillights, allowing them to completely dry between applications. If you get dust particles on it or there is some running, you'll need to do some light sanding. If you're lucky, you may not have to sand the primer at all. Don't overdo it--this isn't metal and a thick layer of primer isn't necessary.
5. Body-color Painting
Clean the taillight surfaces, making sure there are no dust particles. Follow the recommendations on the body-color spray paint can. This usually entails applying several light coats until the desired density is achieved. Don't forget to paint the outer edges too. The exterior paint takes longer to dry than primer and has a greater tendency to grab dust particles and run. You will find that you will use up an entire 16oz spray can for this project, and perhaps need a second one.
6. Mask Removal
Once the paint is completely dry, take a small sharp knife and slowly trace the outer edge of the masking tape. Take your time -- if you make a mistake it could ruin the appearance (either gouging into the visible area or going too far outside the masking tape to remove more non-visible area than desired). Once the tracing is complete, slowly and carefully lift off the masking tape. At last, you have a glimpse of what these lights will look like. Very cool! Do not remove the outer masking tape, as you're not quite done yet.
7. Clearcoat
Clean the taillight surfaces, making sure there are no dust particles. Apply the clearcoat according to the manufacturer's instructions. You may want to apply several coats. Be careful of running, as the clearcoat has a greater tendency to do this than the body-color spray paint. Allow it to completely dry between coats. I didn't do this and I have some slight run marks on mine.
8. Outer Masking Tape Removal
Remove the outer masking tape, being careful not to tear the paint job. You may find that some creeping of the foam liner occurred and will have to do some touch ups.
9. Finished
That's it! You're done. It is recommended that you allow the paint to set in for at least several days. After that, you're ready to install the taillights.
(continue to Part 2)
Painting Altezza tail lights for the Maxima (by Gary95 - Maxima.org)
================================================== ==================
Warning: This is not an easy task, if you want to do it right. Take your time and follow the instructions carefully.
1. Masking
The first step in this process is to mask the visible areas (not to be painted) on the taillights. Each Altezza light unit has an illumination lens surrounded by chromed plastic. Masking the inner units is easy, because the shape is rather simple--a basic circle, with a slight indentation on the lower half on the 95-96 version. The outer light units are more complicated, because the visible area of the lens is curved and there are also side marker lights. Here is the basic procedure I followed:
a) Create paper templates for masking the visible areas (you may need to do this more than once to get the desired shape), one for the inner lens, and one for the outer lens (to go from right-side to the left-side or vice versa, simply flip over the templates). For the outer lens, I created a circle with an ellipse attached (for the side marker). To create the circles, I measured the radius of the visible lens area and used a compass to create the shape. If you're lucky to find a plastic bowl of roughly the same size, that will do as well.
b) Place the templates on the taillight surfaces and make 4 alignment markings on the templates and the lens (3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions). I put two small pieces of double-sided tape on the back of the templates to help keep them from slipping. Make sure the markings on the lens will still be visible after the masking tape is applied.
c) Apply painter's masking tape to the tail lights, overlapping the visible areas by at least 1/4".
d) Attach the templates, align to the marks, and draw the outlines with a permanent marker.
e) Remove the templates, and cut along the outlines with a small sharp knife. Don't press too hard, to avoid scoring the clear plastic beneath.
f) Remove the excess masking tape to reveal the intended shapes for the visible areas.
2. Sanding
You MUST sand the surface of the clear plastic lens that will be painted over. If you do not do this, the primer won't adhere properly and will bubble up when drying. I used a light weight sandpaper, to avoid noticeable scratch marks. Don't be afraid to rub hard, and make sure to get the areas near the edges of the masking tape. Once you have a nice "hazy" look to the plastic, you're finished. Take a wet paper towel and remove the plastic dust layer.
3. Prepping
Take the painter's masking tape and mask off the inside part of the outer edges of the taillights. There is some black insulating foam with sticky black adhesive along some of the edges--make sure you protect it, or else you'll have to paint it later on. This step is to avoid unwanted paint spray getting on the back side of the taillight (and possibly inside the housing).
4. Priming
Clean the taillight surfaces, making sure there are no dust particles. Apply several coats of primer to the taillights, allowing them to completely dry between applications. If you get dust particles on it or there is some running, you'll need to do some light sanding. If you're lucky, you may not have to sand the primer at all. Don't overdo it--this isn't metal and a thick layer of primer isn't necessary.
5. Body-color Painting
Clean the taillight surfaces, making sure there are no dust particles. Follow the recommendations on the body-color spray paint can. This usually entails applying several light coats until the desired density is achieved. Don't forget to paint the outer edges too. The exterior paint takes longer to dry than primer and has a greater tendency to grab dust particles and run. You will find that you will use up an entire 16oz spray can for this project, and perhaps need a second one.
6. Mask Removal
Once the paint is completely dry, take a small sharp knife and slowly trace the outer edge of the masking tape. Take your time -- if you make a mistake it could ruin the appearance (either gouging into the visible area or going too far outside the masking tape to remove more non-visible area than desired). Once the tracing is complete, slowly and carefully lift off the masking tape. At last, you have a glimpse of what these lights will look like. Very cool! Do not remove the outer masking tape, as you're not quite done yet.
7. Clearcoat
Clean the taillight surfaces, making sure there are no dust particles. Apply the clearcoat according to the manufacturer's instructions. You may want to apply several coats. Be careful of running, as the clearcoat has a greater tendency to do this than the body-color spray paint. Allow it to completely dry between coats. I didn't do this and I have some slight run marks on mine.
8. Outer Masking Tape Removal
Remove the outer masking tape, being careful not to tear the paint job. You may find that some creeping of the foam liner occurred and will have to do some touch ups.
9. Finished
That's it! You're done. It is recommended that you allow the paint to set in for at least several days. After that, you're ready to install the taillights.
(continue to Part 2)
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 724
Replacing your taillights with painted Altezzas -- Part 2
Taillight Removal
=================
This is not a very difficult procedure, once you know what you're doing. It is highly recommended you do this on a nice hot day, as the taillight adhesive will be easier to loosen. Otherwise you may need to use a hair dryer.
1. Detach the light bulb wiring harness connectors. The side marker is a little tough to get off the housing--you'll have to pull on it with a pair of pliers towards the inner edge of the taillight. Be careful not to snap the plastic guide.
2. There are two plastic wire holders on the outer taillights that are very tightly stuck on the inner mounting screws. You'll have to pull extra hard to pop them off. There is a chance you could damage the wiring, so take your time on this. Grasp only the plastic holder.
3. Undo the 8mm screws that secure the taillights. You will need a deep socket for this, as you can't fit a crescent wrench around the screws of the inner taillights.
4. Firmly but carefully push on the back side of the taillight housing (in the center). Keep applying pressure, gradually increasing, until you begin to see the taillight edges rising slightly. As it continues to come loose, slowly push the taillight straight out. You will see many threads of black sticky goo dangling from the taillight. Pause for a moment, and most of them will slowly collapse back to the taillight mounting area. You don't want to pull too high too soon, or else you'll have this sticky black adhesive all over the paint (worse case scenario!).
5. Once the taillight is extracted, quickly and lightly tap the lose black adhesive strands, so that the unit is easier to handle.
6. Watch out for this adhesive--it is extremely tacky and will stick mercilessly to your skin, and then get onto anything you touch. You may want to use surgical gloves so you don't get this stuff on your hands. Keep a paper towel handy to clean up lose bits of adhesive.
7. Repeat steps 1-6 for each taillight unit.
8. Extract the bulbs from the housings, then put the old taillights aside (you should clean them and put them away in case you ever need to reinstall or sell them to a Maxima owner).
Taillight Installation
======================
- This is a more difficult procedure than removal. This is because the Altezza taillights are cheaply made, not 100% accurate, and will not fit quite as well as the OEM ones.
1. Clean the taillight mounting areas, so that there is no dirt or dust. You may need to shave off extra adhesive or any other gunk on the mounting surface, as this could affect alignment.
2. Notice that the Altezza lights came with some foam padding pieces. This is intended to replace the adhesive that came off. Well, I discovered that they are too thick and will interfere with proper seating of the taillights.
3. Remove the foam padding and instead apply Rubatex, or some other very thin foam insulation with adhesive backing. You'll want to cut narrow strips that will go around the sealing areas. Use your own judgement for the width.
4. Line up the taillight screws with the sockets and gently push the taillight into place. You will notice that it does not fit flush with the body. Attach the 8mm nuts, turning until they are snug but not tight.
5. Apply pressure to the taillight from the outside, so that you can tighten the nuts further on the screws. Be careful not to tighten them too much, as you either risk breaking the mounting points or causing the screws to start turning inside the housing (i.e. will not tighten further) and possibly cause the screws to come loose from the taillight. You may want to gradually tighten the nuts in a square pattern, for uniform pressure. NOTE: the outer edge nuts are capped, and while tightening will find yourself puncturing the ends (the screws will go through the caps). This isn't harmful, but necessary for proper tightness. Pull off the metal fragment afterwards.
6. After you are satisfied with the fitment, reattach the lighting wire connectors.
7. Repeat for each taillight unit (4 altogether).
8. Once all of the lights are in, test them out to make sure they all work.
9. Reassemble all of the interior trunk panels you loosened to get to the lights.
You're done!
NOTE: Your turn signal output will probably appear less bright. Such is the sacrifice of going from amber to red. You should replace the signal bulbs with high quality bulbs such as Polarg or PIAA so that they run brighter. DEFINITELY get red 1157's for the brake lights, because the Altezza lenses produce a "washed out" kind of red. Also, your side marker bulbs must be switched with red ones. I decided on high power LEDs from LEDtronics. They're pricey ($15 a piece), but worth it as they appear clear when not in use and bright red when active. The look is just absolutely amazing (you'll see when I post pics).
EXTRA: The Altezzas do not have any side reflectors in them. As such you are now violating DOT regulations. Chances are the police won't hassle you, but to be safe (not just from the police but from night time collisions) you should install some side reflectors. Red in the rear and amber in the front (yes, those front clear corners don't have reflective material either!). I'm currently looking into either reflective tape or some low profile plastic reflectors (circular or rectangular).
I'll post pictures of my results as soon as I get the chance. Overall, I'm pleased with the look. To be honest, I could also have gone with clear/red APCs. This painted Altezza look really changes the appearance of the car, and it seems that there isn't a majority of people who like or dislike them. It all comes down to personal preference. That's why it's a good idea to keep the OEM tails in good condition and handy for replacement someday. ;-) The look is growing on me--no regrets. However, I am suspicious of the longevity... it'll be interesting to see how well these lights hold up for the long haul (maybe clear plastic will haze and red lenses will fade?).
~Gary
=================
This is not a very difficult procedure, once you know what you're doing. It is highly recommended you do this on a nice hot day, as the taillight adhesive will be easier to loosen. Otherwise you may need to use a hair dryer.
1. Detach the light bulb wiring harness connectors. The side marker is a little tough to get off the housing--you'll have to pull on it with a pair of pliers towards the inner edge of the taillight. Be careful not to snap the plastic guide.
2. There are two plastic wire holders on the outer taillights that are very tightly stuck on the inner mounting screws. You'll have to pull extra hard to pop them off. There is a chance you could damage the wiring, so take your time on this. Grasp only the plastic holder.
3. Undo the 8mm screws that secure the taillights. You will need a deep socket for this, as you can't fit a crescent wrench around the screws of the inner taillights.
4. Firmly but carefully push on the back side of the taillight housing (in the center). Keep applying pressure, gradually increasing, until you begin to see the taillight edges rising slightly. As it continues to come loose, slowly push the taillight straight out. You will see many threads of black sticky goo dangling from the taillight. Pause for a moment, and most of them will slowly collapse back to the taillight mounting area. You don't want to pull too high too soon, or else you'll have this sticky black adhesive all over the paint (worse case scenario!).
5. Once the taillight is extracted, quickly and lightly tap the lose black adhesive strands, so that the unit is easier to handle.
6. Watch out for this adhesive--it is extremely tacky and will stick mercilessly to your skin, and then get onto anything you touch. You may want to use surgical gloves so you don't get this stuff on your hands. Keep a paper towel handy to clean up lose bits of adhesive.
7. Repeat steps 1-6 for each taillight unit.
8. Extract the bulbs from the housings, then put the old taillights aside (you should clean them and put them away in case you ever need to reinstall or sell them to a Maxima owner).
Taillight Installation
======================
- This is a more difficult procedure than removal. This is because the Altezza taillights are cheaply made, not 100% accurate, and will not fit quite as well as the OEM ones.
1. Clean the taillight mounting areas, so that there is no dirt or dust. You may need to shave off extra adhesive or any other gunk on the mounting surface, as this could affect alignment.
2. Notice that the Altezza lights came with some foam padding pieces. This is intended to replace the adhesive that came off. Well, I discovered that they are too thick and will interfere with proper seating of the taillights.
3. Remove the foam padding and instead apply Rubatex, or some other very thin foam insulation with adhesive backing. You'll want to cut narrow strips that will go around the sealing areas. Use your own judgement for the width.
4. Line up the taillight screws with the sockets and gently push the taillight into place. You will notice that it does not fit flush with the body. Attach the 8mm nuts, turning until they are snug but not tight.
5. Apply pressure to the taillight from the outside, so that you can tighten the nuts further on the screws. Be careful not to tighten them too much, as you either risk breaking the mounting points or causing the screws to start turning inside the housing (i.e. will not tighten further) and possibly cause the screws to come loose from the taillight. You may want to gradually tighten the nuts in a square pattern, for uniform pressure. NOTE: the outer edge nuts are capped, and while tightening will find yourself puncturing the ends (the screws will go through the caps). This isn't harmful, but necessary for proper tightness. Pull off the metal fragment afterwards.
6. After you are satisfied with the fitment, reattach the lighting wire connectors.
7. Repeat for each taillight unit (4 altogether).
8. Once all of the lights are in, test them out to make sure they all work.
9. Reassemble all of the interior trunk panels you loosened to get to the lights.
You're done!
NOTE: Your turn signal output will probably appear less bright. Such is the sacrifice of going from amber to red. You should replace the signal bulbs with high quality bulbs such as Polarg or PIAA so that they run brighter. DEFINITELY get red 1157's for the brake lights, because the Altezza lenses produce a "washed out" kind of red. Also, your side marker bulbs must be switched with red ones. I decided on high power LEDs from LEDtronics. They're pricey ($15 a piece), but worth it as they appear clear when not in use and bright red when active. The look is just absolutely amazing (you'll see when I post pics).
EXTRA: The Altezzas do not have any side reflectors in them. As such you are now violating DOT regulations. Chances are the police won't hassle you, but to be safe (not just from the police but from night time collisions) you should install some side reflectors. Red in the rear and amber in the front (yes, those front clear corners don't have reflective material either!). I'm currently looking into either reflective tape or some low profile plastic reflectors (circular or rectangular).
I'll post pictures of my results as soon as I get the chance. Overall, I'm pleased with the look. To be honest, I could also have gone with clear/red APCs. This painted Altezza look really changes the appearance of the car, and it seems that there isn't a majority of people who like or dislike them. It all comes down to personal preference. That's why it's a good idea to keep the OEM tails in good condition and handy for replacement someday. ;-) The look is growing on me--no regrets. However, I am suspicious of the longevity... it'll be interesting to see how well these lights hold up for the long haul (maybe clear plastic will haze and red lenses will fade?).
~Gary
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 805
Re: Replacing your taillights with painted Altezzas -- Part 1
Gary, very nice write up.
I have something to add...
Some may want to refrain from sanding the plastic with even 2000 grit. It will make it somewhat dull. You should be ok if it's prepped and cleaned properly.
If you use 3M Auto Tape (or painters masking tape, they sell 3M at Home Depot (It's Blue)) it will NOT bleed through. You MUST always remember to add very light misty coats though. Let it dry thoroughly...
When you remove the tape after doing it this way, you can rip it right off and everything will be fine. Only if you use light light coats, this is a must.
Also, do the paint one evening and let it sit overnight. Apply the clear the next morning and let it sit for a while.
Begin the bodywork...
Sand with 1000, then 1500. 2000 is not really needed because most rubbing compounds remove scratches with 1500 and above.
Apply rubbing compound like you would to body paint. Wax and you're done...
I have something to add...
Some may want to refrain from sanding the plastic with even 2000 grit. It will make it somewhat dull. You should be ok if it's prepped and cleaned properly.
If you use 3M Auto Tape (or painters masking tape, they sell 3M at Home Depot (It's Blue)) it will NOT bleed through. You MUST always remember to add very light misty coats though. Let it dry thoroughly...
When you remove the tape after doing it this way, you can rip it right off and everything will be fine. Only if you use light light coats, this is a must.
Also, do the paint one evening and let it sit overnight. Apply the clear the next morning and let it sit for a while.
Begin the bodywork...
Sand with 1000, then 1500. 2000 is not really needed because most rubbing compounds remove scratches with 1500 and above.
Apply rubbing compound like you would to body paint. Wax and you're done...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 724
Re: Re: Replacing your taillights with painted Altezzas -- Part 1
Hey Freddy,
Great addition--glad you posted this.
As for sanding the plastic, I had to do it. Even after extensive cleaning, the primer dried with raised jagged lines (like a jagged ice pattern). I didn't sand the areas that wouldn't be painted, though. Looked as smooth as my test swatches (on metal).
I used that blue painters masking tape from Home Depot, and I didn't get any bleeding (I pressed the edges nice and firmly). After several coats, the paint was thick enough that I really couldn't get a good hold of the masking tape. The only way I could get around that was to use an Exacto knife, gently around the edges. Maybe my coats were on the thick side... I did each layer just enough to get opacity.
I never did that sanding afterward... I'm thinking my coatings are thick enough that I could get away with doing some 1500 sanding followed by compounding. Definitely should do it, though. My paint isn't as shiny as it could be.
Great addition--glad you posted this.
As for sanding the plastic, I had to do it. Even after extensive cleaning, the primer dried with raised jagged lines (like a jagged ice pattern). I didn't sand the areas that wouldn't be painted, though. Looked as smooth as my test swatches (on metal).
I used that blue painters masking tape from Home Depot, and I didn't get any bleeding (I pressed the edges nice and firmly). After several coats, the paint was thick enough that I really couldn't get a good hold of the masking tape. The only way I could get around that was to use an Exacto knife, gently around the edges. Maybe my coats were on the thick side... I did each layer just enough to get opacity.
I never did that sanding afterward... I'm thinking my coatings are thick enough that I could get away with doing some 1500 sanding followed by compounding. Definitely should do it, though. My paint isn't as shiny as it could be.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 143
Wow, great timing. Thank you for the write-up. I'm hoping for a warm day in Ohio to start the project. I need to do a little bit of planning however beforehand to figureo ut how to get an accurate circle on the indented areas on my altezzas. You know what I mean? I want a perfect circle, not some whack-job. Any suggestions?
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