Alignment HELP after H&R install....
Alignment HELP after H&R install....
So I just did the H&R + AGX setup on a 98 SE 5spd...
Install went well, I used pvc tube up front for noise and nothing extra on the rear springs. I used a floor jack to raise each front suspension corner a bit(lifted at the hub on the brake rotor) before I tightened the strut mounting bolts.
So I went to get an alignment after driving it around for a hundred miles or so and letting it sit for a couple days to let the springs settle.
Left Camber is -1.5 and Right is -.7 (which is out of spec on the left - should be -1.0 to .5)
Caster is 2.8/2.8
Toe is .10/.10 (was way off before they fixed it)
I told the alignment guy about futzing with the strut bolts to get the camber within spec but he didn't want to do it since only toe is supposed to be adjustable. There also seemed to be no way in hell to get 140 foot pounds of torque to those strut bolts without pulling off the wheels which won't work on the alignment rack.(A killer nice Hunter unit I really need in my garage)
I pulls a wee bit to the right, but it did before too. So what to do? Is it worth worrying about and trying to do something to fix it myself or do others here have the same sort of specs?
Thanks
-RMB
Install went well, I used pvc tube up front for noise and nothing extra on the rear springs. I used a floor jack to raise each front suspension corner a bit(lifted at the hub on the brake rotor) before I tightened the strut mounting bolts.
So I went to get an alignment after driving it around for a hundred miles or so and letting it sit for a couple days to let the springs settle.
Left Camber is -1.5 and Right is -.7 (which is out of spec on the left - should be -1.0 to .5)
Caster is 2.8/2.8
Toe is .10/.10 (was way off before they fixed it)
I told the alignment guy about futzing with the strut bolts to get the camber within spec but he didn't want to do it since only toe is supposed to be adjustable. There also seemed to be no way in hell to get 140 foot pounds of torque to those strut bolts without pulling off the wheels which won't work on the alignment rack.(A killer nice Hunter unit I really need in my garage)
I pulls a wee bit to the right, but it did before too. So what to do? Is it worth worrying about and trying to do something to fix it myself or do others here have the same sort of specs?
Thanks
-RMB
Umm
Your reading too much into it. You torque the bolts to spec, then go get an alignement. The front camber of the maxima is naturally toe-out or positive If I am saying it right. Its definately not as square as the rear wheel will appear in contact with the ground.
And yes the Haynes Manual states that toe is the only adjustable aspect of our vehicles.
And yes the Haynes Manual states that toe is the only adjustable aspect of our vehicles.
My alignment was perfect after I installed my H&R's and Tokicos. I just switched to AGX's a month ago and my camber is now off. The toe was completely off, but they corrected that and that's all I'm really concerned with. Incorrect toe will wear your tires much faster than an incorrect camber...unless it's extreme i.e. 3 degrees. My passanger side is within spec for camber, but the driver's side is -1.1 degrees...just .1 degrees out of spec. When I drive on the freeway, the car pulls straight so I figure its fine.
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