193FWHP - previous owner claims the car is bone stock, car gives me butterflies in my stomach above 3000 rpm, gets a little tire sliding on stock sloppy transmission... are there factory freak maximas around? was trying to get a baseline before i went ahead and started working on mods... this is QUITE ODD... thought most maximas were very close to one another due to nissan's tighter tolerances. my other car, the fiero, was claimed at 140hp, but most dynoed between 160-170... anyone have any explanations, or things i should check to see if this is all stock? car has 67k on it, runs like a champ, 4500 mile old oil rich and honey colored.. one thing i did do was run some atf through the oil for about 30min before i changed the oil, gained a little pep there, changed the fuel filter... car has some *****... thanks for any input!

 

Whoa, that ia alot of power for a automatic. Can you scan the dyno so we can take a look at them.

 

What scale is the dyno chart in, is it in hp vs mph or hp vs rpm? Also at what rpm/speed does the power/torque peak occur and what rpm/speed does the dyno stop? I'm betting that 193fwhp is from the auto shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.

 

what the hell do you mean ran alittle atf through the oil for about 30 min before changing the oil,, im alittle confused by that statement.

 

o_O sounds like an error.

 

Here, look at this really recent thread.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....9&goto=newpost

Unless your auto Max is highly modded, I doubt it is putting that power down to the front wheels.

I can see a stock 2k2 auto putting at least that much down but not a stock 4th gen Max.

 

I was thinking the exact same thing. There is no way that a stock 4th gen is putting that kind of HP to the ground. It was rated at 190 @ the crank to start with. Like Synki states, as does the linked thread, you have somewhere between 12.5 to 20 % driveline loss depending on the condition of the tranny, so that would put your car at well above 200 hp @ the crank. As stated before, w/o mods, the car started at 190, so it's impossible to get well over 200 w/o mods.

 

You don't by chance have a 4" wide shiny black tube running across your valve cover do you?
-Cyrus

 

 

car has an aftermarket computer, higher stall tq converter, some head work, cat and precats are high flow, different maf sensor, a bunch of computer goodies, and "some japanese market stuff" which he wouldnt or couldnt elaborate on. also think there might be something up with the dyno, as it was specifically for RWD cars, same place i went with my fiero, had to back the maxima in and over the rollers so the front wheels were on there. i dont have a dyno printout and will call over to see if they will send me one. 193 at wheels is approx.... 212? at the crank, thats not so huge a variance from stock.. the hp numbers were MORE than stock, while the TQ numbers were the same... means something was done to make the engine flow better on the top end (the "head work") i also think that the manifolds were port and gasket matched, other low/no cost modifications. will keep all updated, still workin on CAD of the car, so i can start turbo system design... if someone already has a cad of a 4th gen, let me know!!!!

 

- take your car to the track, and if you run a mid 15, that dyno is inaccurate =]

 

You never gave us TQ numbers. You're car is a GLE, which means Auto tranny. You're talking about a 20% loss, so that would put you at 240 hp at the crank. I'm not sure what the deal is.

1. Why didn't you get a dyno printout?
2. Dynos don't care if the car is FWD or RWD, power is power.
3. High stall TQ converter? Is this available for an auto 4th gen?
4. Head work - Don in TX did this and got about 1hp from it.

Get the printout and scan it so we can see what's up.

 

Most highstall torque converters loose power to the wheels. The advantage of the highstall converter is the ability of the converter to wind up higher on launch, that's all. I'm doubting any of these mods were performed on the car and this guy was yanking your chain. Things like a "computer", "MAF", "heads", etc would take tens of thousands of dollars to RD. Porting out the heads would be the easiest thing to do and the computer and MAF would take hours of tuning. It probably cost UPRD and JWT $10000 just to program a Maxima ECU. As demonstrated by the dyno, the only real advantage of the ECU is from 2000-4500rpms. Don has already shown that there is no power to be gained from ported exhaust manifolds. Extrude honing the intake manifold does little too.

I have a hard time believing someone would pour this much money into a GLE Maxima or any Maxima. For the amount of money spent on these mods, this guy could have SC'd, built a full I30 LS tranny with stall, and had lots of cash to spare. Like many have said, take it to the track and prove us wrong. If you're not getting mid 14s, then your car isn't making 193fwhp.


Dave

 

Show us a picture of your engine bay. Nice and bright.

DW

 

Please provide pictures of each of those stuff, dyno chart, and maybe video. I have a hard time believing too.

 

I smell another Roadbeast....

Erik

 

i am pretty sure hes yanking my chain, i asked again about what mods are done and the story changed... if it were a fiero, or any other gm, these mods would all fall under the 500 dollar mark, but, as you all have mentioned, no one bothers to put in the r&d on the maxima to do it.. as soon as i can, i will go to the track again and get a timeslip to scan- one thing i have noticed, with my friends 17" wheels (put them on to see how they look on my car) the car seemed a lot more sluggish than with my stock alloy wheels, when dragracing, has anyone ever tried using smaller diameter (14's, etcc) to increase the gear ratio?? will be going to a different dyno on thursday (one i have to pay for, though... ) and get a REAL run, and a PRINTED dyno sheet, not something they let me look at. and, as previously stated, when someone said the 193 must have been the 2-3 shift (i tink it said?) that particular shift gives butterflies in he tomac, as the car shoots ahead on that shift, while all the others are soggy.. WILL KEEP UPDATED! btw, my turbo plans are still on, bought a t3/t4 hybrid off of ebay, and am doing research on the stock maxima ecm.. used to have this goody w/ my old car where i could see EVERYTHING from the aldl port, injector pule width, exact timing, exact mph, afr, etc.. i want to do this in my max, as with many cars, there is a lot to be gained by simply tuning the stock car properly. if anyone is interested, send me an email fierostetz@***.net and i will create an email group to keep all informed

 

i really have no reason to BS but the max, as it is one of the slowest cars in my stable, i was thinking that if i shared the results people might be interested.. how many people probably called BS when the first guy started talking about his ypipe? i am trying hard to determine what is stock, and what is not on all the parts of the car.. any mods i do, i want the car to stay totally silent, i lve that, whisper quiet operation of a comfortable car, thats why i bought the max. if no one wants to hear anything else, i will stop posting and show pics of the turbo system when i am done. i do NOT plan to release kits. but I DO plan to do a writeup of how everything was done, so others may benefit. i would love to have people focusing more on performance modifications that "ow to make myintake louder" or "how to install clear lenses" and other such nonsensical modifications. my favorite thing about the max is that it is a great sleeper, and i want to keep it just that...

 

Yeah, we know that smaller wheels will give better performance, but bigger ones are just way prettier

If you got the cash, you can buy lightweight big rims. But we're talking $350-400 per rim. Up $1600 just for rims, then you gotta add tires. Too rich for my blood.

DW

 

Definantly post info as you get it. Especially about the turbo project. Your an auto right? You might have a tougher time making it fit in.

SuDZ