I cleaned my throttle body using that cool write-up that someone posted in here...(had pictures and GREAT step-by-step instructions). That was the easiest thing I've ever done to my car and what a difference! Car runs smoother, starts smoother, and has much better response when you touch the gas...Everyone should try this! Feels like BRAND NEW again.
-Chad

 

hey chad could u come down sometime and help me out with that??

 

It's easy
Instructions:
http://www.motorvate.ca/
Engine -> Throttle Body clean

Also, most Carb cleaners say on the back: Do not use with Fuel Injection. Go to Kmart and get the Valvoline Synthetic Throttle Body/Carb cleaner. It's $3 and has a nice angled spray nozzle.

 

Sure, I could...but you wouldn't even need help. Loosen a couple clamps, pull off the hoses, unplug a sensor and the whole assembly comes off exposing the throttle body. Took like 1/2 hour tops.
See those instructions...they're awesome!
-Chad

 

Would the fuel induction service work just as well since I'm just over 72K on my odometer?

 

I cleaned mine and now my idle is real high when I come to a light for about 10 or 15 secs like 1500 RPM and then it drops to about 900 RPM and it just started doing this after I cleaned mine

 

Jacob! You dug up a thread from 2002 dude! (How thew hell do people do that?)

Anyway, you have a valid issue so... you might also try pulling the IAC off & cleaning it too. It's a similar procedure and I actually thought it was easier than the TB on my 97.

BTW: You did actually REMOVE the throttle body from the car when you cleaned it...right? Put on new gasket & everything too?

 

where is this writeup? u talking about motorvate?

 

You might have disconnected a hose while doing it, vacuum leak.

 

Im thinking that maybe if he removed the TB, the cables etc either its a gasket or the cables got tweaked.

Then again, the IACV could use a cleaning to, so starting with that would be your best bet.

 

I did not clean the IACV and I did not take the TB off I just cleaned it with Carb Cleaner and A Rag I saw this in a write up and did it that way. The rags came out so nasty I could not beleave. I went throught like 4 rags trying to get all the stuff out I used an old tooth brush too. The car seems to run a lot better except for the Idle. I will try to clean the IACV this weekend I printed out a writeup on that too.

 

While you're at it, take off the TB & get 10 more rags ready. Be sure that little vacuum hose pointing down is reconnected well. It has no clamp or positive fitting mechanism to keep it in place.

 

how u take the stock air box out ? anyone knows

 

Too me like 35-40 mins to install my CAI

 

When you clean the TB, YOU HAVE TO RESET THE IDLE SPEED.

1) Put the computer in diag mode (gently turn screw on side of comp CW 1/2 turn wait 2 sec, then turn CCW back to original position). The CEL should blink code 0505 (no code). If not 0505, fix reason for code before proceeding.
2) Start engine, get engine to operating temp. Keep comp in diag mode.
3) Rev 2-3 times to about 2k to stabilize idle.
4) With all accessories OFF, turn idle adjustment screw (little blue or black plastic thumb screw on top of motor, look in manual if you don't know where it is, NOT the cable stop screw on side of TB) screw in to decrease idle, out to increase idle. Set to about 750 with tranny in N.
5) Turn off engine.

Done.

 

No you dont.

But the motorvate writeup is crap. take off the TB and clean it thoroughly. and clean the IAC Valve while you are at it. use new gaskets.

 

To remove the stock airbox:

1) Undo band clamp from MAF sensor. Leave MAF in place.
2) Undo 4 SS clips holding a/f in box, open up and remove a/f.
3) Disco various hoses/clamps/electrical sensor wires.
4) Remove top of air box.
5) remove 3 8mm (?) screws securing bottom of box to inside of wheel well.
6) Remove bottom of air box.
7) Carefully unscrew 2 plastic philips screws from top of rad mount.
8) Remove snorkel.

Done

 

do u need to take the bottom part of the air box to clean the TB? and is it better to disconnect battery doing this

 

No, you leave the bottom there. But you do have to disco the intake from the TB -- there's a single SS band clamp to do this. It is a lot easier if you (re)move the intake hose + MAF + the *top* of the airbox all as one assembly to get to the opening of the TB.

Not a hard job either way.

I've not disco'd/removed the battery, but because of the electrical conn's, I'd bet the Haynex manual probably says to remove the ground (-) lead before starting...

 

i am just starting to realize that there are new members on this site poping up like ever y 3 milliseconds...

yes the car will feel like new again if it has not been cleaned in a long time (ever?)

might as well do the IACV while the intake is removed - easier like that. but be ware some say to take the iacv apart completely, some say you may damagethe iacv components while doing this, and a new iacv is like 250 i THINK

also dont forget to tighten up the TB cables when you are done, give the pedal a better feel with a more percise response

 

No, that cleans lower in the engine, doesnt touch the TB

 

This is correct you need to remove the hoses and directly clean the throttle body.

 

i did mine when i put my new mevi on......baby flies now

 

Nice THanks everyone I am going to take the TB off this weekend and I will Clean the IACV at the same time and will let everyone know how it turns out

 

Jacob,
Be very careful with your MAF. Do not drop it, do not allow anything to come into contact with the sensors that are in the middle of the MAF tube.

For the TB, just be careful in moving the hose clamps and removing the 2 lines that carry coolant. After the clamp is moved down the hose, they'll still be on there tight but they'll come off easily enough with some gentle persuading. There's also a vacuum line at the very bottom of the TB...just be sure it goes back on. The lines that carry coolant are small and will drip a little, so have a rag under them or plug the lines with a cap of some sort.

Remember, get your gaskets ahead of time...you'll destroy the old ones in th process and the IAC gasket is a metal "crush" gasket. (They're cheap <$8.00 for both, IIRC)

For the IAC, removing it is actually easier than the TB...just take off the TB first for easier access & then remove the electrical connectors for the IAC. Be aware that there's a bracket the covers the top, rear bolt of the IAC. Remove the bracket to get access to the top bolt, or you can use an open ended wrench on the bolt and keep the bracket in place.

Because the bracket is actually holding another electrical connection (from the EGR temp sensor, I think) it is probably best to remove it first. Be careful with the electrical connection that I mentioned may be the egr temp sensor, it appears fragile. You'll have to feel for the bolt that secures the bracket in place...it's just out of view, but not hard to reach.

On the IAC, I also removed the phillips screws (qty 3?) on the back and cleaned out that area too. The screws are little, so get a good fitting screwdriver so they don't strip. Where the plunger extends into the TB, I also removed that orange-colored plastic housing to expose the spring that drives the plunger, but I did not find any debris inside and it probably does not need to come apart. Just make sure the plunger tip is clean and can move the 1/8th inch or so that it is supposed to have.

Put it all back together and drive it like you stole it....

 

Since we are on the subject, what are the adjustment screws on the IAC for and what should they be adjusted to? I cleaned my IAC probably 12 months ago and could not tell any difference when I adjusted the screw. Just wondering.

 

FSM has a little bit different procedure: between 3 and 4 you should: turn off engine, disconnect TPS and turn engine on. Rev it 2 or 3 time and than idle it. Check ignition and idle speed. should be 575+-50 for MT and 650+-50 for AT. Turn engine off, connect TPS back, turn engine on, rev 2 or 3 times.

 

Well now that someone gave him an answer almost 6 years later, he is set.

 

^^^ hahaha good one =)

 

I didnt even realize the date of the quote.

 

If you don't know what the IACV screw is for and what it should be adjusted to, why on earth would you turn the screw and mess with things?

IMO, don't tinker with stuff you know nothing about.

 

My car was doing the same thing after my 00Vi swap. It turned out that I needed to replace my TB gasket. I put a new one on last night and its running like a champ.

 

i need to get my lazy **** outside and clean the tb and iavc. its at 117k miles and i don't think anything has been cleaned

 

THanks for all the help I will be doing this all tommorow and will let everyone know how it turns out

 

nice..(sorry for the delayed post response)...nice topic to bring back since its from like the stone age so to speak....now if i can get some of the older posits to register and not give me a "expired page" i would be set!! im joining the bandwagon and cleaning my TB and iavc tomorrow too

 

Hey, thanks for answering my question I thought that it may have been a idle adjustment or something but I could not tell any difference. I could understand you comment if for some reason I did this to your car. Why would you care what I do to mine. Apparently it doesn't do much and you don't know either or you would have said.

 

def gon do the IAC and TB, but just to make sure, do you have to reset the idle speed when u do this job??? kinda got throwned off cuz someone put the steps of how to reset the idle speed

 

dont touch any idle adjustment. just clean it and put it back. The wizad is 100% correct.

 

The wizard is always 100% correct

 

did the TB and IACV this past weekend, then drove 230 miles right afterward. my car has very low mileage and i assumed they TB would be relatively clean. it was not. we took out the butterfly plate and cleaned/polished. makes a huge difference in pickup and high end - MPG seems about the same.


wanna say thanks to MOHFpro90 and SilMax00 for their help.