Rear Sway bar knocking in the back.
Rear Sway bar knocking in the back.
Well guys, I installed my rear sway bar on Friday. I thought all was fine and Dandy. On the weekend, I put 4 people in the max with a full trunk. First hole the back passenger side tire hits, we here a loud knock. I take a look at the next stop and look underneathe, and to my surprise, i see i slight bend on the lip of the mount...It maybe needs 2-3mm more clearance. It doesnt hit the flat piece, it hits the piece witch hugs the bushing. Literally, 2mm. Anyone else have this? How can I fix. I have the mount all the way to one side. Its the ADDCO RSB...Thanks.
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Re: Rear Sway bar knocking in the back.
Originally posted by Greek to the Max
Well guys, I installed my rear sway bar on Friday. I thought all was fine and Dandy. On the weekend, I put 4 people in the max with a full trunk. First hole the back passenger side tire hits, we here a loud knock. I take a look at the next stop and look underneathe, and to my surprise, i see i slight bend on the lip of the mount...It maybe needs 2-3mm more clearance. It doesnt hit the flat piece, it hits the piece witch hugs the bushing. Literally, 2mm. Anyone else have this? How can I fix. I have the mount all the way to one side. Its the ADDCO RSB...Thanks.
Well guys, I installed my rear sway bar on Friday. I thought all was fine and Dandy. On the weekend, I put 4 people in the max with a full trunk. First hole the back passenger side tire hits, we here a loud knock. I take a look at the next stop and look underneathe, and to my surprise, i see i slight bend on the lip of the mount...It maybe needs 2-3mm more clearance. It doesnt hit the flat piece, it hits the piece witch hugs the bushing. Literally, 2mm. Anyone else have this? How can I fix. I have the mount all the way to one side. Its the ADDCO RSB...Thanks.
BuddyWh
Dont tell me this is one of those Mods that you need a 10 point list to install it. Like my FSTB that drove me crazy trying to get it to clear the maniifold. Can't they just make things FIT ! Why does anyone have to bust out a grinder or something !
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Originally posted by kloogy
Dont tell me this is one of those Mods that you need a 10 point list to install it. Like my FSTB that drove me crazy trying to get it to clear the maniifold. Can't they just make things FIT ! Why does anyone have to bust out a grinder or something !
Dont tell me this is one of those Mods that you need a 10 point list to install it. Like my FSTB that drove me crazy trying to get it to clear the maniifold. Can't they just make things FIT ! Why does anyone have to bust out a grinder or something !
Well, it is just my luck. I hear yeah and respect the comments. My FSTB also came on Friday, and it does not fit period. I think alot of these GD buys are mass produced products. All I know is lucky there is no damage to my car, or at least I hope not. Im testing my FSTB on 2 more Max's this week. If it doesnt fit, im letting everyone know, with pictures and everything. I have reported the problems to the sellers, and none of them have offered any help beyond the .org messages. I hope things settle down. By the way, all my brand name stuff is rock solid. I don't mean to bash, but if we can't trsut each other, then we all miss out.
No. Ive heavily modded 2 cars before this, and when you pay good money, even more on Aftermarket Maxx parts, you want them to fit. Ive seen guys with problems , with Y pipes, Cattman Catback, FTSB, now RSB's....... Take for example my Frankencar, took me 20 minutes to put it on ! EVERYTHING FIT ! .. is that too much to ask !
Buddy, all the way left, it hits the lower part of the arm. Leaving it there would hit much easier, plus make the suspension softer. Going all the way to the outside of the car does give you more clearance, but it still hits on heavy roads. I belive most people don't notice cause with a empty or lighter load, it doesnt hit. Please people, assume I know what I'm talking about. Not only do I do installs, but I also have my stuff done at proven performance shops. This many minds can't be wrong. All i want is a cure and a acknowledgement. So far, Banana's. Im bitter, yet I don't think i've crossed the line.
I had exactly same problem
Originally posted by Greek to the Max
I should have the additional work done on Tuesday. Im hoping a few MM will clear it.
I should have the additional work done on Tuesday. Im hoping a few MM will clear it.
Im glad to hear. But that close to the middle does not do the part justice. It must stand out to the end to make it stiff. regardless, I appreciate your feadback. If only others could do the same. So you actually chopped it 2 MM?
Re: I had exactly same problem
Originally posted by THEKNITE
Besides the bushing hitting, my side brackets didn't go over the trailing arms. I got new ones from Addco, but that's besides the point. You are right, its only off by about 2mm, but unless you cut it, it wont' help. At first i tried the same thing and moved it all the way to the corner, but on big bumps it still hit. I moved my passanger bracket/bushing about 4 inches towards the middle of the car. I haven't heard a noise since. That bushing bracket is still a little bent, but it holds. Hope you everything works out for ya.
Besides the bushing hitting, my side brackets didn't go over the trailing arms. I got new ones from Addco, but that's besides the point. You are right, its only off by about 2mm, but unless you cut it, it wont' help. At first i tried the same thing and moved it all the way to the corner, but on big bumps it still hit. I moved my passanger bracket/bushing about 4 inches towards the middle of the car. I haven't heard a noise since. That bushing bracket is still a little bent, but it holds. Hope you everything works out for ya.
I would suggest doing the grind, b/c as you move those brackets in you lose the effect of the bar. Further out they are. the more control you get.
Don't sell yourself short - GRIND!
No
Originally posted by Greek to the Max
Im glad to hear. But that close to the middle does not do the part justice. It must stand out to the end to make it stiff. regardless, I appreciate your feadback. If only others could do the same. So you actually chopped it 2 MM?
Im glad to hear. But that close to the middle does not do the part justice. It must stand out to the end to make it stiff. regardless, I appreciate your feadback. If only others could do the same. So you actually chopped it 2 MM?
"It must stand out to the end to make it stiff"- they're talking about the side bushings. Read the instructions. The 2 bushings on each side behind the wheels are the ones that control the stiffness or the softness depending how far from the edge they are positioned, the 2 middle bushings just hold the bar to the axle.
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Originally posted by Greek to the Max
Thats strange, but if u think about it in your head, regardless of the instructions, you will see that having them at the ends would make it stronger.
Thats strange, but if u think about it in your head, regardless of the instructions, you will see that having them at the ends would make it stronger.
With too much from the rear bar I get more oversteer than I like. Don't know if you've pushed it yet but I found it real annoying coming hard out of a turn fighting the oversteer. The way I limited it was to pull in the brackets and lower front tire pressure which I had previously increased to reduce the Max's original, almost plowing, understeer.
I hear changing to a beefier front roll bar will help control it too but with a powerful V6 in a FWD platform, my Max will never achieve completely neutral steering.
I have a FSTB in place; I don't think it affects steering balance much but it does make any steering inputs quicker and more positive... especialy at freeway speeds for quick lane changes. Now the Max is great... flat corners, no roll, like it's on rails, and very controllable oversteer.
As for me... I don't mind having to fiddle a mod onto the car, in fact I like it. Mod the mod, as it were. I have a much greater sense of accomplishment... it has a bit of "me" in it when it's all done.
BuddyWh
Yo Greek To the Max.....
I had the same problem and this is what you do.....
put the car on a lift and have the plate SHAVED just enough so that
there is no contact with that thing (don't know what it's called)
that's hitting the plate. DO NOT slide the plate in towards the middle of the car more. I think the effectiveness of the RSB diminishes when you do this.
Just shave the plate....that's what I did and it turned out nicely.
I had the same problem and this is what you do.....
put the car on a lift and have the plate SHAVED just enough so that
there is no contact with that thing (don't know what it's called)
that's hitting the plate. DO NOT slide the plate in towards the middle of the car more. I think the effectiveness of the RSB diminishes when you do this.
Just shave the plate....that's what I did and it turned out nicely.
it was easy to put the addco sway bar little grinding and no thump .i have 2002 gle the only extra grinding i had to do was on the drivers side arm . the u bracket would not go in but other then that it was easy .
the is way better
the is way better
Believe it or not guys, I stopped by Nissan this PM to get something done, and asked if he could Grind my sway bar down so it doesnt knock. He took it for 15 minutes, did the work, and didn't charge me. Props to Village Nissan in Markham ontario.
Originally posted by Greek to the Max
Believe it or not guys, I stopped by Nissan this PM to get something done, and asked if he could Grind my sway bar down so it doesnt knock. He took it for 15 minutes, did the work, and didn't charge me. Props to Village Nissan in Markham ontario.
Believe it or not guys, I stopped by Nissan this PM to get something done, and asked if he could Grind my sway bar down so it doesnt knock. He took it for 15 minutes, did the work, and didn't charge me. Props to Village Nissan in Markham ontario.
We have owned several different brands of cars. Nissan is on the lower side of the list for "After the Car is Sold" Satisfaction. They are not up to par with facilities, and lack any real desire to help the little guy. There goal is to keep you buying because the initial value is good. Others attempt to keep u buying because service is good. Others, well, they keep you buying because reliabilty is better. My 2 cents.
Re: Re: I had exactly same problem
Originally posted by noflash
I would suggest doing the grind, b/c as you move those brackets in you lose the effect of the bar. Further out they are. the more control you get.
Don't sell yourself short - GRIND!
I would suggest doing the grind, b/c as you move those brackets in you lose the effect of the bar. Further out they are. the more control you get.
Don't sell yourself short - GRIND!
Re: Re: Re: I had exactly same problem
i would like to know also not to inclined mechanically so not sure what parts are knocking and what needs to be shaved and were it would help me also knowing what needs to be done ahead or time
Originally posted by SSandMaxima
Do you have a pic of what/how you shaved it? Im about to install mine... thought I might save myself some time if I knew what to shave beforehand.
Do you have a pic of what/how you shaved it? Im about to install mine... thought I might save myself some time if I knew what to shave beforehand.
Re: Rear Sway bar knocking in the back.
Originally posted by Greek to the Max
Well guys, I installed my rear sway bar on Friday. I thought all was fine and Dandy. On the weekend, I put 4 people in the max with a full trunk. First hole the back passenger side tire hits, we here a loud knock. I take a look at the next stop and look underneathe, and to my surprise, i see i slight bend on the lip of the mount...It maybe needs 2-3mm more clearance. It doesnt hit the flat piece, it hits the piece witch hugs the bushing. Literally, 2mm. Anyone else have this? How can I fix. I have the mount all the way to one side. Its the ADDCO RSB...Thanks.
Well guys, I installed my rear sway bar on Friday. I thought all was fine and Dandy. On the weekend, I put 4 people in the max with a full trunk. First hole the back passenger side tire hits, we here a loud knock. I take a look at the next stop and look underneathe, and to my surprise, i see i slight bend on the lip of the mount...It maybe needs 2-3mm more clearance. It doesnt hit the flat piece, it hits the piece witch hugs the bushing. Literally, 2mm. Anyone else have this? How can I fix. I have the mount all the way to one side. Its the ADDCO RSB...Thanks.
i am going to purchase a rsb. and from hearing this and similar complaints i think i will have to go with stillen. i dont have the mech knowledge or tools to modify. i need just a simple plug and replace without any type of improvising. thx for posting up because this will be my next purchase.
were you able to notice much of a difference when you installed the RSB with you maxspeed setup because i have the same car and i'm going witht the same setup please let me know
Originally posted by kloogy
Had mine on for almost a week, im not sure what knocking you guys are talking about .... ?
Had mine on for almost a week, im not sure what knocking you guys are talking about .... ?
still trying to figure out what you guys are referring to.
Originally posted by Greek to the Max
Um, moving it over doesnt really solve it. its on 2MM, just shave it down so u dont have to worry where you have it.
Um, moving it over doesnt really solve it. its on 2MM, just shave it down so u dont have to worry where you have it.
are we talking about the bushing for the right axle mount? Mine doesnt hit, but if I was guessing that it would hit anywhere, I would guess that the swing-arm type assembly might be able to impact that bushing. There would have to be a lot of motion in the rear end to do that.
Is this a problem only with lowered Maxs?
Originally posted by Virus
Don't grind anything away. Just move your bushings in 4.5 to 5 inches from the curve and any clanking will cease.
Don't grind anything away. Just move your bushings in 4.5 to 5 inches from the curve and any clanking will cease.
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