i was wondering if anyone could give me some estimates on horsepower and 0-60 times on a 3rd gen max se with intake, exhaust, ecu, headers, cam shafts, cam gears, basically all the engine bolt on upgrades except any forced induction. i'm thinking of getting this car and just want to know what i can do to it, thanks.

 

if you get all the bolt-ons out there and dump them in a 92-94 SE 5 spd, you'll be lookin at 150+ top speed pretty easy.. I've seen a low 14 second 1/4 mile, and probably low 6 sec 0-60.
it mostly depends on the driver though, and how willing you are to thrash your car through the gates.
as with any other car, if you wanna drive it that hard, be prepared to spend a lot fixing stuff.. engine mounts, clutch, etc.

 

***coughs*** Blown engine...

There matt, I said it... If you want, go ahead and tell them. It's not something i'm proud of or anything. I HAD NOS runnning in the VG. That was when I got my fastest EVER 13.99 1/4 mile time. But the next race right after that was when the engine was blown. "That's Racing!"

Burnt Pistons (2 of 'em)(heh..basically fried, torched, whatever way you want to put it).
Bent piston connecting rod (one)
Seized Camshaft. <<--OUCH!)

I think that I held it waaaaay above redline too long (I was in 3rd gear) and the engine couldn't take much more of it. So I've had a brand new engine for about 3 months and (luckily) my dad paid for it. This time, NO NOS!! <--EVIL! The engine only has like 1200 miles on it. So I'm gonna try and take it easy. (I got a new heavy duty clutch at the same time too!)

 

but NOS is tottally unpredictable, so I wouldn't doubt anything!! must've been some scary sh*t!!!

 

I was actually referring to Bryan H..
he ran a 13.8 on NOS, like a 14.2 off NOS in his VE max..
he continually did it too, not just once.
then again, he also had a few internal mods on his car.. like 300zx cams and some mild headwork and intake stuff (if I remember right anyway)

 

If nos is installed and used properly you will not blow the engine. think before you type so you don't waste band width
with this ****...

 

Take my word for it, I do plenty of thinking. It WAS a 50 shot Nitrous Oxide Systems installed my the local import shop. I still have bit's and pieces of it. I haven't had any problems with it until that happened. And matt that "just once" you're right, but when I still had it I was running low 14's 14.4, 14.22, etc. I had a f**kin awesome RT on that 13.99 that's why. A .500 is perfect. I had a .596 RT Yeah now I'm lucky if I get high 14's. OH well. That was then, this is now and now it sucks. (not fast enough.) I want it all to be N/A. no turbo, s/c, nos, etc.

 

i may not follow you're post but RT does NOT reflect anything in your overall ET...no matter what your RT was you still got down the track in 13.99...it coulda been a 23 sec RT....

 

Yea..I know..

Hey on another subject:

Is it me, or is perlmax90 really trying to **** MATT OFF?
What do you think?

 

i agree...if we let it go it will calm down...im gonna stay out of the thread....for now....if some of the usuals around here and the other 3rd gen board see this...this place will be on fire matt is very respectable guy and many will come to his defense in a heartbeat..

 

Yeah...MAtt's cool and VERY knowledgeable and I'll surely defend his *** for whatever reason no matter what his opinion. He defends me when people get pissed at me (or something about my car, or whatever) so myself (and the rest of maxima.org) will gladly come to help.

I think that perlmax90 is just pissed because he's more or less just been proved wrong and won't "accept the facts"

 

Ghostwheel used to run a 50 or 65 shot of NOS on his max before he went to a TTZ 2 years ago. From my conversations with him at Maxus '99, he used to go through 2-3 bottles a week. The only damage he did was to "spin" the main bearing on the crank....

 

welp the master 3rd gener is here to save the day
matt the times are correct. but on the other had i had no head work done. just intake ported. 3z cams from a na z. i have a list of mods if people want them. and it did those times consistantly on motor 14.2 14.3

the reason the nitrous times are low is because it was way too rich and caused some slow down. no biggie.
any questions?
lemmie know

 

Yo Bryan, please list the mods and what you think were the worthwhile ones. I gotta pull at least one head becuase of a coolant leak. Might be a modding opportunity. How did the ported itake work. Good or bad? thanks.

 

FAST4EN ... I don't know what you did wrong with your NOS, because I've got an 80 shot running in mine at the moment and the only reason why I leaned out hard one night and blew one of my exhaust valves was simply because the stock fuel pump just couldn't put out the high pressure anymore. So in went a Walbro 255lph high pressure pump and I've never looked back.

Dude, if nitrous is done properly, there is no reason why your motor should ever have a bad NOS day.

 

Ok The Max, do you really think we're gonna listen to you? I mean you drive on the RIGHT side of your car! :0)

-Kaleb

 

Don't make me fly up to your work with my UDP and break it off in your ****!! 3#-)

 

jeff, you wanted my mods
we'll here ya go


custom maf intake plate
k&n conical filter
ported tb
port matched intake manifold
ported upper and lower intake
advanced timing via crank angle sensor
ngk plugs gapped to .40
hollowed cat
2.5 from cat back
opak muffler
shaved flywheel
stock clutch
back cut gears
3z NA cams = not worth it
gutted trunk
and one hell of a driver
you do not need to port the upper and lower intake manifold to hit a 14.5 on motor. just adds more torque to the tire spinning fun off the line

 

Thanks Bryan. I have most of those mods now. The shaved flywheel mod was a nice one. I'm glad I did it. Did the ported tb kill any low end? I imagine you had to get a new throttle plate made too? What was the "after" size. Thanks again.

 

Is one of the best ways to get power cheaply (relatively speaking that is). Before my head gasket blew I was going to put in a 65 shot N20 kit but never got the chance. The thing with NOS is you can't abuse it and you have to take precautions. For one thing I wouldn't run anything more than a 50shot without a fuel pump upgrade. Hey FAST 4EN, what was your trapspeed on that 13.99 run. You said you were above the redline, I have seen dyno's for VG's on NOS and you should have been in 4th gear above 95mph.
Now for how fast can a max go, its just like Jeff said you can go fast as you want to spend. But the trick its to get the quickest with least amount of money invested. I'm sure my max could run 13's if I spent like $5k but I don't want to do that. I just want to replace my engine with another one that runs (hehe ). Know I don't know how many others had cams and ported heads like I did but I can offer some advice. These hardcore mods increase your 4500-6700 power alot, however it might only drop your ET about 2-5 tenths at the most. I do know that if your an auto you have to get a higher stall TC at least. ALso the stock ECU won't map the fuel curve past a certain rpm (5800rpm in my case) so you can't get the full benefit. Don't forget it takes skill to get good ET's, but remember trap speed shows were the hp is. IMHO if one was serious about making max NA power the following things have to be done. Rebuild the VG30E with 11.1CR forged pistons, ISKY race valve springs, motorsport 280 grind cams, ported heads with valve job, ported or extrude honed intake manifold (don't know if it makes much of a difference but it sounds nice in a mod list), Bored TB and port matched intake collector. Custom ECU, intake, Y pipe or headers, testpipe (or high flow cat), catback, upgraded clutch or rebuilt auto, colder spark plugs, maybe upgrade the ignition too. The trick to making power in our cars is to rev higher, with the ISKY valve springs and these cams your engine will be capable of 7500rpm. However you will lose some driveability. But the problem is you could do all this work and still only pull like 170-180fwhp (which is very good BTW). IMHO if you want to go fast, might as well start with a better engine. Like a VE30DE or VG30ET, while the latter will respond to mods easier/quicker in the long run it will cost more. For one thing getting a proper FMIC isn't cheap, then upgrading to 370cc/420cc injectors isn't either. Lets not forget that upgrading the turbo might not be expensive, but to get the most effiecent turbo it has to be a ball bearing unit. Those run from $800-1400, then factor in full exhaust, intake mods. Where as with the VE all you need is bolt ons and a 50-60shot NOS system. Of course you could do the same for the VGT too . Basically to run 13's in a 3rd gen you will need to upgrade the clutch and fuel system. That is unless your a bad *** driver that can run faster than others will less mods.
For example my car ran 17.3-17.4's almost stock. $700 in mods (intake, exhaust, UDP, 60mm TB) had my car running low 16's. Don't forget it takes more power increase to go from a 15.0 to 14.0 than it does for a 17.0 to 16.0. I'm pretty sure that my car with its upgrade probably would have ran 15.5-15.9 but I'd still be slower than modded VQ auto's. However its nothing a 50-65shot wouldn't fix though. Okay enough of my ranting, I'll shut up now .

 

Read some of my earlier posts Nismo. I was in 3rd and held it too long before the 3-4 shift. I never got to visit 4th gear on that run. It was the run after my fastest ever 13.99 with a RT of .596 (that doesn't matter) and a trapspeed of 101.40 mph.

Here's the other stats about that run:

60 ft 1.901
330ft 5.623
1/8mi 8.910 @ 80.81mph
1/4mi 13.997 @ 101.40mph

the opposition was a 97 eclipse also running NOS his trapspeed and time were 14.03@ 99.22mph....can you say a close race? his rt was .627. If I didn't have my good RT, he would have beaten me. I only beat him by .033 of a second. The next race, that's when it blew....

 

i believe the size was 70mm im exact on size. you must keep the fatory lines to gain hp but it maily increase torque. it gained 13 ft lbs and 6 hp. down low, so no it didn't hurt hp. can be done in a hour or so, depends on how perfect you want the lines in it. again you MUSt keep the factory lines to maintain velocity

 

Nismo87: Dude, I agree with Fast4EN about the length of the gears. Believe it or not, when I last took my Max to the limit (not too long ago), 3rd gear's range at WOT was from 120km/h (74mph) - 180km/h (112mph). Only after that did 4th gear actually kick in. It's always been like that, even with the stock standard auto box.

 

Remember our auto's 3rd gear is a 1.00 vs the 5spd 1.27. This means that his 3rd gear is about 21% shorter than ours. So if we hit lets say around 115mph (185km/h) at 6000rpm then his car would be at 95mph (153km/h). So his car would have been in the redline, since he didn't mention him having a JWT ECU. His car ran very lean, the reason is the stock ECU stops mapping the fuel curve at a certain point. Instead of increasing the injector pulse with rpm it just uses the last pulse given for the last rpm window. I'm sorry his engine blew but wow a 101mph trapspeed. That is enough to take some supercharged 4th gens. If he could only scan his timeslip and post it, we can show everyone VG power! hehe.

 

I've always known about the way the fuel mapping works in our stock ECU's. So I'm just wondering, does the JWT correct this issue?

 

i saw a post saying everyones age ..im 19 and you guys seem to be around my age...i know some stuff about cars i could change belts,do brakes,stuff like that then i read posts about changing engines,exhausts and all special abreviations....you guys seem like a+ mechanics ....do you have a lift in each of your garages...its a pain for me doin those jobs i do...its nice to know i can get help around here

 

Nah, I just buy the tools as I need them and get creative at times too. Like when I had to take out my rear engine mount while my gearbox was thousands of miles away getting rebuilt by Level 10, my tools were as follows:

2 x long handle breaker bars used with various 1/2" drive sockets
Ratchet (1/2" drive)
17mm and 21mm ring spanners
Trolley jack
Scissor jack
1" thick 2x4 MDF (between trolley jack and flywheel)
8 house bricks to support motor
Wooden axe handle
Light

Sure it was a *****, but since I didn't have an engine hoist and another dude to help with carrying off the hood lid, doing it from the bottom was the only way.

Note the necessities that I bought as I needed as well as where my creativity kicked in 3#-)

We may know our ****, admittedly I'm still learning from everybody else's experiences but I've learned a lot in the meantime and the rest is just based on your own ingenuity. Trust me dude, it ain't hard, just tedious at times.

 

whats up everybody as you can tel from the name im new to this board.
i guess i couldnt have seen this post at any better of a time.i have a 92 max VE30DE SE that i have been along with other people for a little while now.
we have been very busy trying to put or find any performance parts for this car let me tell you it is very hard to find parts for this motor.i believe its because nissan only made this engine for 2 years. i have been checking the specs,tolerances rod journal size etc.understand what im saying but everything we have tried to use for this motor that companies have like ON-SHELF ITEMS just wont work because everything is so much different.
i guess i can describe it as like one of you guys trying to put parts from the new 2000 maxima on an 86 300Z.the specs on everything for this motor is just so different.
anyway
for the past year we have been doing machine work to block,crankshaft,etc.along with putting performance parts on such as pistons,rods the usual bolt-ons.as of now the engine is till apart but will be putting it back together soon with all the work we have done to to we are hoping to have pretty high dyno numbers say mid 3's to the wheels.we are hoping anyway.if any of you were wondering i went the so called expensive way N/A.

i have a question we are still looking for a few items like camshafts,valve springs,retainers basically valvetrain if anyone has installed or found parts like that please let me know.

thanks for any info

 

around mid 2's. Not 3's. the only way you will get into 3's will be on the bottle or forced induction.

 

you obviously don't know much about tuning and basic engine building in VE max's do ya. mid 3's is easy with out nitrous

 

And mid-high 4's is right after that. VE30DE-T: Coming this spring/summer.

 

Just think of it as a Z-car on crack! Mid 3's is VERY possible with a VE...upper 2's with the VG or possibly low 3's.

 

i was wondering does anyone know if any company makes a high flow fuel pump for the 92 VE30DE SE motor.i just want to cover all the bases when i put the motor back together it would seem like a waste of time to have all this hp and not be able to use it because of lack of fuel.


i know this number is far off from mid 3's but i had my car dyno'd with just the basic bolt-ons no y-pipe just intake,greddy exhaust the basic stuff.

my car put down to the wheels 175hp and 177 ft torque
that is with my 17x9 seneka sniper wheels
but what is even more amazing is that i had the compression checked and i believe it was cylinder 1 was short on the check it only pumped up to 100.

just thought you would like to know

 

Get yourself a Walbro GSS341 pump. It's a 255lph high pressure pump and is perfect for high fuel applications like nitrous and other methods of forced induction. I love it! The fuel just pours on at 75 PSI for me when I'm NOS'ing it 3#-)

Check out my website about how it fits etc. I'm not sure if the fuel tanks are the same between your model and mine, but anything is possible with a little modification anyway!

Maybe one day if the bigger shot of NOS doesn't get me to 300FWHP and blows the motor will I then rebuild it with forged components and much tighter tolerances to up the compression and have closer to 300hp at the flywheel naturally aspirated. It's been done with the VG's before.

 

Don't you know it! When I had NOS on my VG, It was dynoed at 258hp at the crank and 217hp (i think that's what it was) at the front wheels. Now i've only got N/A (new engine) that has been dynoed at 187hp at the crank. Don't remember what at the wheels was...That would require getting up and finding it, and I'm too lazy right now to do that.

 

Pretty much what I've got happening at the moment (210bhp).

 

mikey. im already doing 400+ whp in my eclipse
have fun with your v6 d00d
i'll see ya at the finish line

 

mid 3's at the wheel without NOS or forced induction would be so much $ it's not even funny.
And Bryan no i don't know VE's.
considering with every bolt-on you can get for the maxima you only get around maybe low to mid 2's to the ground. To get over 100+ more hp just by boring it our and putting lighter pistons and cranks, and blah blah blah yadda yadda or whatever he was going to do i don't remember.
I don't see it happening to the ground. You may get mid 3's to the crank. But not the ground.

 

150+MPH!!!!!!!!!!!! how do you plan on achieving that!!! i can hit 140 but that's when 5th runs out. the only way to get it over that would be to increase your final drive or your gear ratios. and there's no point. and anyone that says that that's BS and that a max won't do 140 is full of crap. cause i've been there. kinda scary, but it'll max out

 

The parts base for these maxima's isn't like Honda's. These engines are very hard to modify. And most the parts and accessories that would go into it would be custom or VERY expensive.
Unless you have the $$, the Time, and the know how. mid 3's to the ground N/A isn't a bright future.
Yes it CAN be done. I never said it couldn't. But the $$ and Time would be outrageous. He said he had another engine in there right? so he has the Time. Now does he have the money? Patience? Determination?
Good Luck i hope you do hit mid 3's. but I personally think it would take more to get there. You never know though. I could be wrong and we'll just have to see when you finish.