History: I had my car lowered with H&R's and factory struts and had no alignment issues, the car went straight.

I just installed the AGX's last weekend and went for an alignment because the toe needed to be straightened out. Now the car goes slightly to the left adn worse and highway speeds. I took it back and they said the car's toe is straight but my camber on the right side is -.01 out of spec and that is what is causing the car to go left even thought the toe is within spec. Is this correct? Will camber plates or bolts fix this problem? Is it the AGX's?

Also, when they did the wheel balance at the same time they never checked or changed tire pressure and then did the alignment. I had them check and change tire pressure after all the work was done. Would this affect the alignment readings? (just throwing out ideas)

The problem is not huge but annoying. I searched but didn't find exactly the info I needed. Any ideas would be a help, thanks.

 

Post your alignment specs.

There's plenty of space in the bolt holes to get the alignment in spec. It sounds like you have one wheel pulled twards positive camber and the other pulled twards negative camber. You can get it back into spec pretty easy.

Loosen the 2 bottom strut bolts, push the hub twards positive camber. What I mean by that is pull the top of the rotor twards you and the bottom of the rotor away from you. You can feel the play and see the movement. Thats gives you as much positive camber as allowed by the bolt holes. Do the same exact thing for the other side and you should be just fine again. Watch when you tighten the bolts that the hub doesn't move once you get it in position.

The reason you need to go twards max positive camber is because when you lower your car you go into negative camber. To correct this you need to pull twards the positive side. You should wind up at about .5 deg. negative camber on both sides when your finished. Make sure you have the toe checked again because it will change. Your steering wheel might not be perfectly center again as well. Thats a good sign, it means you have corrected the camber. Just have them do the alignment again to fix that.

The reason you car is pulling is probably because you camber offset from side to side is probably at or exceeding the limit.

Example - One side at -1 and the other at -.2 That gives you a difference of .8 which is to much and will cause a slight pull. You have to get both sides even, thats the trick to good tracking. The more twards the negative side gives you less wondering too.

 

Here is my alignment sheet. I will try adjusting those bolts you mentioned and then having them re-align my car.

Thanks,
Eric

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...38659045DvpnZG

 

Don't touch the left front, it's perfect. Only the right front needs to be done. Do exactly as I posted before, pull the top of the rotor and hub twards you, then snug it back up. You should be back in spec again.

After you do this I'm 100% sure your steering wheel will be slightly off center. Thats a good sign. It means what you did worked. Then get the toe fixed so the steering wheel is centered again and your all set.

 

You ROCK!

 

 

...I just installed new springs/and shocks and took the car to alignment shop. Unfortunately, the mechanic down there was not cool enough, so he could not adjust my camber.

Now, my camber before after alignment was -0.2 at left front tire and -1.0 at right front. I know that the right could use some positive chamber, and I am planning to do "your thing" once I could get the wheels off the car (the shop broke my McGard key adapter).

My question to you, how far should I "bent" the rotors to get just a bit of more positive chamber? I don't recall we have a numerous play between those two bolts, so can I just pull it to the maximum allowable play (to the positive side?).

Please let me know!

(and yes, I will bring it to the shop again once I got smaller chamber at the right front...