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Rear oxygen sensor wiring

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Old Jun 2, 2002 | 01:30 PM
  #1  
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Rear oxygen sensor wiring

When I had my tranny replaced, I immediately had a check engine light come on for the (recently replaced) rear O2 sensor. I've managed to pull it out (b*tch of a job!!!) and clean it with some carb cleaner, but no luck.
Before I buy a new one, I want to find out if one of the wires that leads from the ECM to the rear sensor could have been damaged during a tranny removal. Once the wire disappears from the sensor into the car body, I've got no idea where it goes. Has anyone successfully traced this route before?
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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sorry to bring up such an old thread, but i have searched and searched and didnt find anything relating to this.

my connector was damaged in snow. i need a new connector. i know i wont be able to trace the whole connection inside of the body of the car, BUT, does anyone sell a connector that i can splice and connect to this?

i have a new O2 and connector, but nothing to plug it into. I tried to connect the cables and solder then together with a differnt o2, but i was still getting the code. what suggestions can someone give me? is my ECU shot? or can someone find me a connector and ship it to me? i tried a few junk yards around my place without any results.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mindlessoath
sorry to bring up such an old thread, but i have searched and searched and didnt find anything relating to this.

my connector was damaged in snow. i need a new connector. i know i wont be able to trace the whole connection inside of the body of the car, BUT, does anyone sell a connector that i can splice and connect to this?

i have a new O2 and connector, but nothing to plug it into. I tried to connect the cables and solder then together with a differnt o2, but i was still getting the code. what suggestions can someone give me? is my ECU shot? or can someone find me a connector and ship it to me? i tried a few junk yards around my place without any results.
I'm going to the yard tomorrow, I'll see if I can't snag one for you. The connector comes up right underneath the seat IIRC, somewhere under the carpet. Yea, soldering the wires on an O2 sensor is a PITA, something about the type of wire used.

So you just see bare wire where the connector used to come out of the body, or you don't see it at all? It's possible it just got shoved back into the body somewhere.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 09:23 PM
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Thanks for that info on the connector location. thanks for checking the yard!

ya teh ice underneeth the car spliced them all. its just bare wire. the wires area all cracked and i bet they could if they havent already, short out. there is only about 6 inches left of it, and i know its longer than that, i have pulled it out as much as possible, i didnt even have to pull much cause the ice snagged it, pulled it out and sheered them right off.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mindlessoath
Thanks for that info on the connector location. thanks for checking the yard!

ya teh ice underneeth the car spliced them all. its just bare wire. the wires area all cracked and i bet they could if they havent already, short out. there is only about 6 inches left of it, and i know its longer than that, i have pulled it out as much as possible, i didnt even have to pull much cause the ice snagged it, pulled it out and sheered them right off.
Well for now if you plan on driving the car, electrical tape them up seperately, then tuck them up into the car. You don't want anymore damage going on there. At least you still have some wiring left to solder a pigtail to.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 09:28 PM
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ya! i wrapped them up, but not seperatly. my friends got a shop to work on it, but i can only get there on saturdays if he is not busy. it should probably be fine the way it is, but it wont have any more damage, thas for sure! its taped up, and zip tied up with a new rubber plugg too.

no problems getting annother pigtail on now. ya, we didnt try soldering, but had some crimp and heat shrink connectors that work very well.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mindlessoath
ya! i wrapped them up, but not seperatly. my friends got a shop to work on it, but i can only get there on saturdays if he is not busy. it should probably be fine the way it is, but it wont have any more damage, thas for sure! its taped up, and zip tied up with a new rubber plugg too.

no problems getting annother pigtail on now. ya, we didnt try soldering, but had some crimp and heat shrink connectors that work very well.
You'll definitely want to solder that connection, just to prevent any further issues. Also, take it apart and electrical tape them seperately, as there is a switched B+ and two connections to the ECU; you're looking at ECU replacement worst case if something happens there.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Thats good to know. what will i be looking for with a new ecu if that is the case (i want to make sure i have all my egg's when i start working on it). say i need to get an ecu, do i just put any old 97-98 ecu in? i know that 96 and below even tho they are still 4th gen (not all years i know) use differnt o2's and are not compaitible. also do i need to get an SE version or are all the models the same? cause i remember the other models have a limiter and the se doesnt. i own a 97 maxima se.

does anything have to be flashed or any special things done? or just pop that new ecu in there?

also how much do you think i can get one for and where might you suggest i get one? like i said earlier there wasnt much of anything in the junk yards, and the cars that were there, were 95's i belive. are there any online places for cheap? curtesy nissan was selling for $700 something. thats to steep for me

i have seen some on ebay for not bad prices, but i dunno about ebay for ecu's.

ohh ya, its an auto.

Last edited by mindlessoath; Jan 17, 2009 at 09:44 PM.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 10:00 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by mindlessoath
Thats good to know. what will i be looking for with a new ecu if that is the case (i want to make sure i have all my egg's when i start working on it). say i need to get an ecu, do i just put any old 97-98 ecu in? i know that 96 and below even tho they are still 4th gen (not all years i know) use differnt o2's and are not compaitible. also do i need to get an SE version or are all the models the same? cause i remember the other models have a limiter and the se doesnt. i own a 97 maxima se.

does anything have to be flashed or any special things done? or just pop that new ecu in there?

also how much do you think i can get one for and where might you suggest i get one? like i said earlier there wasnt much of anything in the junk yards, and the cars that were there, were 95's i belive. are there any online places for cheap? curtesy nissan was selling for $700 something. thats to steep for me

i have seen some on ebay for not bad prices, but i dunno about ebay for ecu's.

ohh ya, its an auto.
I would go for your year and trim, but trim doesn't really matter (speed limiter as you said, but that's not a big issue unless you like speeding).

Check the classifieds here, at NYCMaximas, and NYCNissans. There's usually a few ECUs for sale at any given time. PM Maxima_Joe, he may have one.

Make sure it's for an auto; an auto ECU in a 5 speed will work just fine, but not the other way around. Also, Cali vs Fed spec is important, as you'll get emissions codes if you swap one around for the other.

Wiring is the same for 96-98 (but as you said emissions equipment changed a bunch): http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...0-px-wide.html

No need to get it reprogrammed or anything, that's only applicable to the '99s which have the NATS system.
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