I will be posting on this thread whenever I run into any problems....hopefully people like Clee, BlkCat, MardisGrasMax, and Ptatohed will be here for me...

OK...We've got the FMU on, T-Rex pump on, and all hoses attached. All fluids drain from the car and the VB on it's way to Texas....

So we start on the Stillen instructions....

First problem: I'm trying to remove the oil sender to insert the T Fitting for the feed lines to the Supercharger.

How big is this bolt? I've tried up to 22mm (took 1 hour and 3 parts stores to find a 22mm deep socket), and no luck.

Somewhat frustrated...is there another way it comes off?

And why is there a 23+mm bolt when the T isn't nearly that big...I hope I'm not doing something wrong.

Thanks,
IanS

 

I cant remeber exactly but I know you dont need the 22 or 23 mm socket, I did the same thing when I went to install mine, sorry I cant remember off hand, I think you just unclip the sensor from the wire harness and unscrew it, I remember just using my hands to unscrew it, but I think it was maybe a 12 mm socket that you would need, if no one anwsers with a positive answer by tomorrow I'll go and check. I just wanted to add that you should try and unbolt the s/c from the mounting bracket because I couldnt get mine apart even when I used a torch and impact driver. I ended up having to have a mechanic drill the bolts out, unless you already have the belt on which it looks like you might in your sig pic

 

Yes, belts already on there...Loren was gracious enough to think of that ahead of time.

I don't see how a 12mm would work there.....The only bolt on that sensor is well over 20mm.....

I spent over an hour looking at it, and nothing but that bug bolt is there...I must be missing something.

I tried unscrewing it with my hand, with mechanichs gloves one, and with plyers/vice grips....I don't want to strip it, so I gave up.



Anyone?

IanS

 

Its a standard size 1" and somthing, just go but a bunck of sizes and return the ones you dont use

 

Thanks, MardisGras, but I would like an exact answer from someone...I'm low on cash unitl Friday.

So if anyone knows the size, please let me know.

IanS

 

does'nt pepboys or a local part store rent/loan tools.. just trying to help

 

I tried 3 places (No pep boys in Seattle)...noone would rent the tools.

Just need to know the bolt size...I find it hard to believe noone remembers...

IanS

 

1 1/16 deep socket.

 

Great! Thanks! I had assumed it was metric because everything else is.

Anyway, I start again tomorrow at 8:00am....

I'll post if I have any other problems.

Anyone know what kind of Fuel Pressure I should be running on a 3.25" pulley? I'm not asking an exact range, as I expect it is different by how you tune it, but what is the "normal/safe" range?

Thanks!
IanS

 

Next issue:

I can't get the Stillen thermostat on!

I shaved down the alternator to make room with a dremel, but now the brass bracket that connects the top alternator bolt and then connects to the engine is in the way.

What do I do?

Can I just remove the top bolt on the alternator and leave it at that?
Semms kind of a stupid idea, but that's all I can see.

Thanks,
Ians

 

if you hold the s/c mounting bracket up in place you will see there's a hole that lines up where the top bolt on the alternator was.

 

I have the V1...the SC bracket doesn't go near the alternator.

Anyway, today was a BAD day.

First, It took 3 hours to figure out the alternator, but this is finally done and all is well. You have to shave the alternator down, and take that bracket and flip it around backwards to make room for the thermostat (Thanks, Loren).

Today, while putting the Thermostat back on and torquing it down, the top stud for the thermostat SNAPPED off, and I have no idea where it went....I'm hoping the gasket+sealer+tightness of the lower bolts makes it OK, but if not, I will leak, have to have that stud drilled out and rethreaded, and it's going to cost me alot of money. As far as i can tell right now, however, it looks very tight, but the only way I will know is by starting her up....

Otherwise, I am either missing a bolt for the SC to attach to the car, or one of the 7 bolts is half threaded..(no threads at the top of the screw)..anyone know?

Thanks,
IanS

 

You can usually get that stud out with a good pair of vice grips. The pressure in the cooling system will more than likley cause a leak. I'd recomend you order the stud from the dealer.

 

Matt is absolutely right on this...

Pull it out and do it right... it may delay you, but well worth it

 

I guess you would know Delio

 

Actually, it snapped flush with the engine.

So vice grips won't work....and there's no way a drill is fitting down there, so I can't drill it and retap it.

Any other ideas?

IanS

 

Put a jack stand firmly under the oil pan, use a block of wood between the oil pan an jack stand to spread the load. Undo the pasanger side Motor Mount. Remove the center Cross Member. You may need to remove the Y pipe also. Jack up the motor, use a another block of wood to spread the load out. See if you can get it up high enough so you can get at the broken bolt. If so reset the jack stand to hold the motor while you work on it. Leave the jack set also to help support the motor also.

**** happens, it sucks, but it allways pays to fix it the right way.

 

is it a stud or a bolt? If it's a bolt then you can sometimes use a hammer and a punch to tap the broken bolt around and around until you can get it with pliers. For a stud this won't work.

Another bolt trick is the easy-out. Doubt this will work on a stud, but it's worth a shot.

Drilling and tapping is the way I'd go. If you are really careful and get dead center then you can just use the tap as a thread chaser and essentially clean the threads instead of cutting new ones.

Do it now - even/especially if you have to do major disassembly. Once this job is finished you'll be sick of working on your engine - that housing WILL leak. It'd suck to have to pull it all apart again...

 

Yes I would know

 

I just did this on Monday... After having to send my blower back to Vortech... I snapped the bolt. And I was sure it was cast into the motor. Brett and Matt can vouch for the fact that I was practically in tears on the phone with them, Thinking I was going to have to pull the motor or at the least the head.

Ian, I was lucky that mine snapped and I had plenty of room to get at it with a pair of Vice Grips and unthread it. I am actually still waiting on the new part from the dealer.

Anyways... I suggest that if you do have to go the Easy Out method you are VERY careful with drilling that bolt out. You can ill afford to mess with that. A coolant leak will not be a fun ordeal to handle 2 months from now, although I doubt it would last that long before it burst. Remember there is tremendous pressure running through the motors cooling system. If there is no way of getting a pair of vice grips on there then you have little choice but to drill through the center of the bolt... and take an EZ Out and reverse that bolt out of there.

Good luck. I know what it feels like.. seems like you are in an even worse position than I found myself in earlier in the week

 

 

Why don't you just go get a stud at the local hardware store?

Is there a reason I'd need to go through the dealer?

IanS

 

Most hardware stores do not carry Metric sizes that we need. If you can locate it...go for it. I have a pretty good parts connection. So it was easy.

 

My problem is that I'm borrowing someone elses garage for the install, and need my car out of there by Saturday.

Do you know the exact size of the stud?

Nissan part #?

Thanks!
IanS

 

No I won't have that info till tommorrow when I get my part from my friend

 

Delio:

After looking closer this morning, it appears I can get to it with Vice Grips.

But the quesiton now is, how do I remove the stud?
It seems to be turning, but not going anywhere....is it not threaded on the inside, and I just have to use alot of force toget it out or something?


Thanks,
IanS

 

Nevermond, just needed a little more elbow greas...I got that sucker out of there....

There's a specialized Infiniti/Nissan junkyard in my area.heading up there now seeing as the dealership had to order it.

Thanks,
IanS

 

Well, I ended up buying a stud at Tacoma Screw, a local shop that only sells scrfews, bolts,bushings,etc....it worked perfect.

So thermostat is now on, alternator and oil plate are done, and it's time to put in the SC!!!

Wahoo!

IanS

 

Hang on... you're almost there. <--- how you will look when you are finished.

 

All done for tonight. The SC is bolted to the casing with 1 bolt right now, need to finish putting in the SC and belt, cut a hole for the SC CAI, run the pipes, re-install the ValveBody, and run the wires for the guages.....then I'm done!

Assuming I have no leaks or any problems and such, of course.

So I have a couple of questions regarding the actual SC Install:

Keep in mind this is a V1 SC, not a V2.

1)I noticed that once you get the SC in, there is almost no way to get to the idle pulley adjusting assembly to turn it to tighten when the belt is on...how do I get around this?

2)I'm not sure how the belt runs, anyone have any side pics of the V1 with the belts run? Does it look just like the V2?

3)I accidentally broke the red wire on the VB going to the lone solenoid....will soldering it back (it broke at a solder point) and masking it tightly in electrical tape be OK?

4)What do I specifically look for once everything is in? What are some common issues/problems I may see besides leaks?

Thanks!
IanS

 

Good job Ian.

1.) I can't really comment on this as it is still fairly easy with the V2. I don't really see why it would be different with the V1 but if you say it is, I guess it is. I just need a long extension. Perhaps you might be able to use one of those long, bendable extensions. I'm not sure what the name is but I can explain it in more detail if you need.

2.) As far as I can tell, there is a very good side pic. on page 3 of the Stillen V1 instructions.

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...181995&page=11

3.) My guess is yes. Heat up the old solder, instead of adding new.

4.) Perhaps belt tension? The main thing I want to stress is hose/tube connections. Make sure nothing comes loose. I had the T adaptor come loose on me and my car ran like **** and I was sooo bummed. It was a simple fix and now a permanent fix with hose clamps but I was nervous for a day or two. Stillen didn't say to add hoseclamps there but now I know better. That and, like you said, leaks is all I can think of right now.

Good luck. Keep us posted!

 

Well, I'm done!

(Well, actually, almost....the Guages aren't lighting up, the MEVI is not activating, and we have not installed the SC CAI)

But she IS drivable!

Boost is hitting only 5 lbs because I need to go tune the A/F Ratio, but OH MY GOD it's insane!

The only thing is, the V1 sounds VERY loud...at first we were scared the SC wasn't getting oil and was grinding like that because of it....but no, it's just that loud!

How do you others with V1's not get pulled over constantly from cops because of noise violations?

Or maybe I'm wrong..maybe it's NOT supposed to be that loud...

Anyway, next post will be a pic or two.

IanS

 

Here it is...like I said, we need to straighten out some wiring issues, but it looks pretty cool, eh?

 

Congrats Ian!

 

THe Pictures not working

 

Congrats, Ian! 1st boosted org member in Washington state!

I've read that the V1 is louder than the V2, even with the hood down, so no worries!

 

5lbs at redline?? if so... check for leaks.. boost is boost, your not controlling the air in a/f!

v-1's are loud, some louder than others... you either love it or hate it.

 

Check for leaks like Brett suggested... OR your Blitz BOV is too loose.

 

Well, today, using the haynes and Chilton's manuals today, we checked out the cars entire vacuum system. Everything is connected...no leaks anywhere....

We even used a hose as a stethoscope on many of the lines to make sure there were no leaks....

We then checked the belt, and it was a tad tight, but not enough to cause a problem. We loosened it, and it's perfect now.

Then we checked the BOV....tight as it can be.

Then we checked the line to the mechanical guage...not one kink or bend anywhere of any significance.

So I've got a 3.25" Pulley and only 6 lbs of boost at redline. Still don't know what else to look into.

In addition, the FP Guage, while wired to the Sending unit exactly as the directions say, only goes all the way pegged, at 100 psi, and doesn't move. As soon as I turn the car off it drops to zero. According to the guage instructions, this is indicative of a +/- short/miswire. I rewired the entire thing, and get the same results.....WTF?

Thanks for help ahead of time.

Oh yeah, and even with 6 lbs, with the MEVI I feel I'm probably in the 13's....high 13's, but 13's none the less....We'll see next week, hopefully.

IanS

 

Ian, maybe your sender is grounding out on something? As far as boost leaks, did you check by hand while reving the engine, that might help you find them, and your BOV might be set too loose, not sure if you checked that or not... I'll help ya out tomorrow if you want, just gimme a call...