I had a brand new OEM clutch installed about 2000 miles ago. Also the Slave/Master Cylinders are brand new. When i shift hard in to second, which i rarely do, the clutch doesnt grab at all like it should. It basically slips for a second then settles into gear. Also, sometimes when the car is cold, i'll shift into second-barely gassing it- and it slips for 3-4 seconds then settles down. I asked the mechanic about breaking in the clutch right after i got the car back, he said that i didnt really have to worry about it. This really ****es me off, because i spent WAY too much money to have my car fixed, and it drives worse than before. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

Who did the install, Nissan??
Was your fly wheel surface cleaned?
An orbital sander with a fine grit paper puts a nice flat finish on a fly wheel. Perfect for mating a new clutch plate to.

How about the possibility of your rear main seal leaking oil onto your new clutch? Check the bell housing where it butts up against the engine for signs for oil.

 

The install was done by a Mr. Clutch affiliate, good size shop who does a lot of work. The flywheel was resurfaced. I dont have any fluids leaking, that would be a total surprise to me. I'll check that though. Have any idea how long it will take to break-in a new OEM clutch? The mechanic said it didnt even need to be broken in, but i'm thinking more and more he's full of ish. help.

 

Did you get the true "OEM" clutch or did you get the cheaper "Blue" Nissan clutch? There is a difference. ShortChaz got the "Blue" clutch and his slips like crazy even though it is new. Many guys have had this same problem. The OEM clutch is close to $300 (part only) where as the Blue clutch is like $170.


Dave

 

I think Dave B may have found your problem.

I've never head of breaking in an OEM clutch. I'm suprised that ACT clutches are broken in. I guess you learn something new all the time!

 

I'll have to go back and look at the receipt, I'm pretty sure the clutch was close to $300. It also shudders/shakes when engaging the clutch going into first gear. Now I KNOW that's not normal. Does this sound like a quality $1600 clutch and hydraulics job to anyone else? Screw me.

 

I would bet you it has to do with your hydraulic system not releasing pressure off the pressure plate. Your clutch doesn't grab b/c the pressure plate doesnt release it. It could be your master cylinder not being adjusted right. Do you have any freeplay in the pedal? You should have some, if not the system sucks in too much fluid and doesnt function properly.

 

All the hydraulics were replaced the same the the clutch was. So, that could be the problem too. I guess I'll need to pick up a Haynes manual and take a look. Thanks.

 

Where is the clutch pedal release point? Is it really high up?

 

Well, when my clutch was changed it slipped like a mutherfuker. I don't know what kind of clutch was used but it took at least 500 miles just to get any kind of normal acceleration w/chatter. Now after 1000+ miles it just makes a little groan but is fairly smooth. I can chirp 2nd so I guess it grabs pretty good.

 

I got my ACT in about 1100 miles ago and my clutch chatters like a mother and "SKIPS" like you say, every once and while when I shift fast...I got nothing done other than flywheel resurfaced and the ACT-Street setup...I can easily chirp 2nd and 3rd but normal driving is hard...Im almost getting a grinding down by the drivers side wheel, when it engades in first...Going around turns and downshifting to 2nd, the hole car shakes and wiggles cause of chatter...I have to have the guy that installed it look at it. It may be my hydrolic system or its just adjusted wrong...Im going over there tomorrow

-matt

 

i have the JWT and it shudders in 1rst gear also. it only happens when the rpms go under 1k. the clutch pedal free play has been adjusted a few times and right now it has just a little freeplay like when it was the oem clutch.
it was installed by a friend and then taken out a week later and then installed again by the dealer due to a rear main seal job under warranty.
i also have an inconsistent idle which makes me feel it is part of the problem. I dont know if it is related but im due for a 60k tune up so hopefully the 1rst gear shaking/shuddering will go away after the spark plugs and fuel filter are changed.

 

it's shuddering because you're not giving it enough gas. Aftermarket clutches tend to grip VERY well and need a bit more gas or a more delicate foot to engage smoothly. I have an ACT stage 1 and noticed the "chatter" the first few starts as well. But you get used to driving it and now I'm completly smooth Actually, I was smooth after the first three or so starts.

 

I dont know guys....Mine really chatters low rpms like you said...and I'm bringing it to the macanic tomorrow to have it looked at, maybe a moter mount or something else....I have alot of unwanted noise like squeaks but nothin a little grease cant help...That grinding in first is getting on my nerves and I need to have him look at it, it definetly doesnt feel normal and I bet it isnt normal...


I hate how violent that the shift is into 2nd...once I get suspension parts, I hopw it will deminish alot

-matt

 

Act Clutches have no stages

 

Ok, there's a street disc, a four puck, and a 6 puck clutch. Sounds like "stages" to me

 

you can call it what you want but if you call up ACT or their dealers and ask for a stage 1 they'll reply "huh?". Centerforce labels their kits with stages, ACT does not.

 

The clutch pedal release point is fairly high up. From the release point to the floor there is resistance, I assume thats how new clutches are supposed to be. The chatter does only happen when I try to shift into 1st and keep the RPMs around 1k, but thats seems pretty reasonable to me? I'm having a friend take a look at it tomorrow, hopefully we'll figure something out.

 

I wemt from an act clutch.To a stock
oem clutch.Act rules I chirp all gears
till fourth.Then I blew my tranny in a race.Then I installed
an oem clucth it sucks it also slips.I dont know
why oem clutches suck so much!

 

Maybe cause they're not meant to hold much power???

 

There should be no resistance towards the top of releasing the clutch. If you do not have any freeplay, that is your problem as you're sucking in too much fluid into the system.

 

http://www21.brinkster.com/italianosoul/act_stage2.JPG

 

you are new.. save yourself a flame..

 

and this is the man i bought my ACT clutch from.. so i trust his judgement..

 

Oh, i see watcha saying. Yeah, they don't have stages, Stillen probably just listed it that way. Sry yall.

 

I like you newbie..

 

Stillen lists *everything* in stages.

I can mail over an ACT catalog for you so you can see for yourself, or call them @ 661 947 7791 and ask how much they sell their *stage2* setup.