All that seems to matter is whether or not you have a spark at the plug gap. No spark, no bang. With higher combustion pressures due to spray or FI, spark can begin to fail, leading to loss of power at the top end.

Making the gap closer makes up the difference. Raising the voltage going to the coils also boosts the spark. Making the gap wider has no benefit - the gap must be close enough that you get a spark to jump every time it's supposed to jump - otherwise you just wasted a combustion stroke.

If you are familiar with your top end speeds, you could try decreasing the gap to say .040 and try it on the track. If your MPH increases, the gap was too wide.

 

I am feeling great right now I finally broke in the 12's today. It was an awesome feeling It happend on my very first pass today when I saw my 60' foot was a 1.90 I new I was gonna break the 12's I ran a 12.92 at 106MPH and on my next pass I backed it up with a 12.86 pass with 1.871 60' foot at 106MPH.

Timeslips are posted on Cardomain:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2618056/1

 

Wow.......

 

Grey99Max,

Thanks for the info you gave me I had my plugs gapped @ .046 when I was running 13.1 & 2's. After gapping them to .044 my ET came down & MPH went up. It was also a little cooler that day. Thanks for the props.

 

You're driving a rocket!

Can you change plugs without removing the Kinetix manifold? One of those would sure look good on my 3.5 installing this week in my '99 Max.

The spark plug gap thingie was something I learned at the strip, after wondering where my 3.0 top end was going to. 13.5s and a trap of 98 MPH did not compute.


Good job...

 

You have to remove the Kinetix intake to remove the plugs in the rear bank but it is alot quicker than the stock mainfold. It takes me 40 minutes to change out all 6 plugs. On the juice the Kinetix makes alot of torque.

 

Question - did you dyno your car with today's setup???? If so, the Dyno forum would really like to see it.....

Amazing car - and it's bootiful, too..

 

No I have'nt dynoed it with the current setup but I plan on getting it dynoed within the next 2 weeks. Estimated WHP 320 on juice and 242 without the juice based on a horespower calculater I use heres the link check it out all you need is the weight, E.T. and Trap speed.

http://www.boostcontroller.com/display_page.php?i=16

 

Excellent - lots of folk here are going to want the run-files from your dynos, so a heads-up!

Do you have any NA passes that you can share? Just to compare with sprayed passes? Just wondering how much the 75-shot does for you. If not, then maybe one NA pass on the dyno ??

The dragstrip on Maui (Hawaii) has a similar calculator that I sometimes used, just to remember what Maui is like......

 

When I run stock 14.4ET, 60' 2.1 & 2.2's Traps 98MPH and that's with my timing retarded 2degrees. I run front tires 30PSI stock and 20PSI on the Juice.

 

Harold, will having a too small of a gap cause issues? for example in my FI application.

 

I had to use a .030 gap with standard coil voltage - which seemed pretty close to a lawn mower. I came up with the Voltage Boosta and opened back up to a .035. Things were much better after that.

Hurt you? Dunno - your top end is good, so maybe not, but our coils are Weak Sauce when running lots of nitrous or boost pressures. Get yourself a Boosta and gap to .035 - .038. Remember, without a spark, nothing else happens. I kept seeing evidence that cylinders weren't always firing - more voltage or smaller gap seemed to help me go quicker.

Heck, borrow your buddies Boosta and go find out.

 

Grey99Max, I posted up some timeslips without the juice when I was brackett racing on cardomain.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2618056/1

 

Every time I look at your cardomain site, I see something new... where does your CAI pull air from? behind the headlight? - from the fender well ?? The upholstery is a real statement for the Maxima, and just looks darn good.

Looking at your slips - great times for N/A by the way - I did notice your RT times seemed kinda - slow -. Were any of these runs on a Pro tree? Was bracket racing good for you?? When I tried it, I hated it - I prefer heads-up, personally.

If you could get those RTs down to .1xx, you would whup up on even more cars... It's all about "becoming the tree" and leaving on the last green just right. I can usually cut a .1xx RT or sometimes a .0xx - it helps. When I get to a track, I try to watch the light for a few early passes, just to get the feel of the tree.

Great job on building a great car - and you say there's more to come. Cool.

 

My RT's are pretty good Capital Raceway is the only track I know that a perfect tree starts at .500 not .000 I ran a .599 & .642 I say that's pretty good. My CAI sits in front of the wheel well behind my headlight. I'm gonna start at the beginning of next race season in the points brackett. I love brackett racing I just started I ran three races and each race I went three rounds I won $40 dollars each time out I plan on doing it more often so I can make some extra cash on the side, thanks for the props on my interior.

 

I wondered - that explains your RTs... that .500 does seem weird, though. Nothing wrong with your RTs! And nothing wrong with making money, either. Most Pro trees are padded .400 sec, and go from stage to launch in one step - but you probably know that.

I bet that your car shocks the bracket racers with how good it looks inside and out, while you're whuppin' em. I kept my '99 GXE completely stock on the inside except for a red LED for the heater and a little purge button right next to it. Heh - really freaks the street racers.