Here's my question for those 4th gen 00VI users running nitrous...

I have a MSD digital switch opening my VI, and would like to use the same switch for setting my activation/cut range for the nitrous. I'm thinking, for safety purposes, to use the WOT switch, fuel pressure safety switch, and window switch. Since I already have the MSD, it should be as easy as wiring in the WOT switch, fuel pressure safety switch, and have the MSD control both the VI and nitrous in the same range. If I set the open at 5,000 RPM (which is ideal for just the 00VI) and to cut at 6,300 RPM just below rev limit for the nitrous, is the window too narrow for the nitrous? Should I set the open range for both much lower to get more from the nitrous? The idea is that the car would have to be at WOT and within the RPM range for activation.

Am I on the right track here?

 

a good range is 3000 to 6000

5000 to 6300 is way too narrow

 

^ what he said 5-63k is too narrow for nitrous

 

You're using the #8969, right, Todd? If only we had 2 windows to use instead of just one

 

I have three MSD 8969s in my car - one to control the MEVI, one for a nitrous window switch ( 3000 - 6500 RPM) and one for the Shift_Fast_2 to upshift the automatic at 6400 RPMs.

Works for me......

 

That's a lot of money invested in switches, though

 

That's right Tatanko, we have the same switch, the MSD 8969. I'm thinking that if I run both the 00VI and nitrous window the same, the nitrous is going to cause the rpms to spike rather quickly anyway, so having the VI open at a less than optimum range, won't matter much. I'm thinking 4k to just below the rev limit should be perfect.

 

Peanuts - look at this shot under my hood, if you want a headache.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...3/Dscn1869.jpg

The infamous OBX headers:

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...3/Dscn1871.jpg

And some 12" slicks to try:

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...3/Dscn1840.jpg

And the 2001 Pathy TB/spacer for the MEVI:

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...3/Dscn1842.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...s/Dscn1635.jpg

And a 2001 Pathy intake (upside down) to cut and re-weld:

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...s/Dscn1638.jpg


And a whole third nitrous stage to install.... So much work, so little decent weather.....

 

That doesn't mean your performance will be optimum. From 4k to 5k you could be making more power with the runners closed up.

 

So get going already

I know, I know...weather here is still too cold I only work on the car when necessary right now, pretty much. Thank god it's reliable.

 

Yeah, yeah.... It was sunny and 70s today, so I got to ... mow and fertilize the yard....

Right now I'm building the Shift_Fast_3 tranny-shifter/nitrous-cut/torque-converter-cluch super box, complete with 2 MSD 8969s... Is four MSDs too many ???

 

I thought you were implementing a fuel and spark cut, as well?

 

OK - if you insist... But this is bad enough for now:

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...3/Dscn1881.jpg

 

I spy a Tatanko-style push-button shift_fast in there What's everything in that box going to do?

 

Tatanko, you may be right about optimum performance, but with a 75 shot going through the upper, I would venture to say runners opened/closed from 4-5k may not make much of a difference. I will have to put it on the dyno when done to do some tuning.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

OK,

1. Race/Normal selector switch for the tranny.
2. 4-button or Shift_Fast selector switch, if in Race. (Dyno or Drags)
3. MSD-controlled Shift_Fast functions.
4. Push-button Clear-everything switch.
5. Push-button Shift-Up switch.
6. Torque converter clutch control. -probably MSD-controlled...
7. Indicator LEDs for shift solenoids. What gear are you in?
8. Shift-Light LED stack. ( those 10,000 mcd superbrights sure are.)
9. Nitrous-cut on each shift.
10. Ignition-cut on each shift ( maybe )
11. Third-stage nitrous control. Second-stage control is also possible.


There are six DPDT 12-volt relays on a circuit board, the assorted switches, various 10-ft. cables and connectors, assorted superbright LEDS, case from Radio Shack, and misc. electronics stuff.

I'll probably think of something else, so I'm building expansion capability into the box. This should be quite interesting...

 

For what's it's worth, if you're a good driver with spray, you don't need a lower-end control for nitrous - drive it with the WOT switch controlling the solenoids and use the MSD set to 6500 for cutting off nitrous just before factory fuel cut. I bet you launch at over 3000RPM, and never drop below it while spraying, so why do you need low-RPM control?


I didn't use any RPM control for nitrous all last season (at least 50 nitrous passes) , and I survived just fine. Of course, I'm automatic....

 

I consider myself an above average driver, but with a 5 speed and 00VI at the track, it's easy to get to rev limit fairly quickly. With spray, a lot faster. I'm just worried about the top end really, and not the bottom end. Bottom end is just to keep the runners closed on the VI until 5k.

 

See- all you need is a 6500 cutoff limiter for safe nitrous and you're golden.

 

That's the plan grey99max, thanks for all the comments guys.

 

Sorry about chatting on your thread, but it was about nitrous... If you can spray at WOT whatever RPM you're at, and have a positive cutoff at 6500 RPM,
then you're gonna need much better tires! With the 00VI, it will pull really hard at the top end. Fun!

 

No problem, I'll take any opportunity to talk cars. My bro has a 10 sec mustang and keeps telling me to come off the dough and buy some slicks and a set of drag wheels. Easy for him, it's not his money. After I spray the first time, I'm sure I will change my mind and start looking for some track specific wheels and tires.