i have a warpspeed y and a greddy sp2 exhaust. doing either an injen intake or an ebay short ram soon. wondering what plugs to use and how much to advance timing. do i need to buy an aftermarket comp to advance the timing? any other pre nitrous mods i should consider? thinkin about buying an nx kit later next week but if i have to do alot of mods 1st ill just do that instead and save up again =D thanks for any input

 

You should use some ngk plugs that are 1 step colder. Also, never advance timing with nitrous.

For a 75 shot, pretty much all you need to change are the plugs.

 

What about air-fuel. Should it be tuned accordingly?

 

A wet shot feeds in the correct a/f so no tuning is necessary if you use the recommended jetting.

What you will really need for the 75 shot is a box of Depends.

 

^ lol ^

what he said all you need is a healthy car

 

You can tune it by either going up or down on the fuel jet and reading the spark plugs.
Most of the companies set their kits to run pretty rich. More power can be had by further tuning with the fuel jets. Although, the car should be fine running out of the box settings.

 

sweet. thanks soo much for the input. and will a 75 shot really make that much of a differance that ill need depends? i mean im only 20 i think i have control of that lol but seriously will a 75 shot be a good kick?

 

yeah you should be able to feel it. Its not going to slam you into the seats or anything though lol.

 

Wondering the same thing. The mods are in my sig, but I have the 17 deg. timing advance, it would be good to go back to 15? Also, I would do a UTEC with the nitrous kit. How should the UTEC be set up? I guess one map for NA power but one for when using nitrous? Is there a way to make the UTEC change the map when it detects nitrous or something? Trying to get some more info on this. Thanks!

 

My setup is using 3 maps, 1 for N/A, 1 for 75 shot -2 timing, 1 for large shots -4 timing. It can be switched at any time by the push of a button as long as the engine rpm is below 1600. Cannot be done automatically.

 

Ok, so you cant switch the map at all above that RPM or you can but something is gonna break? lol and 75 wet shot is the most a stock motor will safely handle, is that correct?

 

I'm looking to sell my kit, total price with the stealth install= $1,200, There's a thread of the install, but here's the gallery-- http://forums.maxima.org/album.php?albumid=27

 

The UTEC will not switch maps above 1600. I have never had the necessity to want to switch maps otherwise. When I am racing I switch between runs. I have a race this weekend that has a 11.5 and 13.0 second index and I run both classes. So I run N/A with reduced timing for 13.0 and a small shot for the 11.5. Just the flick of a switch, nice.

Well my motor is stock and I run a 200 shot but I wouldn't advise anyone to do that unless they had a lot of experience with nitrous and had the car setup properly.

 

OK, so you can run your nitrous map but not use nitrous, you'll just lose some power, correct? And geez, 200 would be too much for me lol what is the biggest kit you can use if you want good power but reliability? ANd what do you mean have the car set up properly? What have you done specifically to run nitrous?

 

how bout a workshop jime???

 

You can use any map you want but I wouldn't recommend it. But yes if you run a map for nitrous you will run with reduced timing at fat a/f. Not something I would do. I wouldn't suggest anyone run over a 100 or 125. The map I have for 13.0 is an N/A map with timing reduced a bit to slow the car down a bit.

I have been running nitrous for a few years, run a wideband for each shot at reduced timing to setup and run a 11-11.5 a/f, 2 step colder plugs etc. You need every safety item that is produced for nitrous and then it can blow up if you aren't very familiar with it. There is nothing like experience and it doesn't come cheap.

 

I'm always willing to pass along whatever I can but everybody is at a different level so you have to ask a bunch of questions to find out where they are and what they want to do.

 

So what would you recommend if I wanted to go with a 75 or 100 wet shot? What other mods should be done? Like I said, I'd definitely go with the UTEC when I did the nitrous.

 

i sent u a pm a while back asking some questions...

i know we are all pressed for time so I will resend it, I hate to ask so many questions but the more info the better...

thanks for your .02

 

Just wanted to bump the thread

 

good info here gonna run spray soon also

 

I just want a little more info on my questions, please!

 

Sorry i am a little slow, I missed the 1st one. Have been helping my Son move to a new house.

 

No problem man. Thanks for all your info. Here is the question when you have a moment...

 

You don't have to do any more mods for a 75 or 100 shot. But depending if you are manual or auto, are you going to be at the track or street, street tires or slicks?

There are a lot of things you could do to make it quicker and more consistent, ie bottle warmer, headers, adjustable struts, slicks, etc

You already are using 2 step colder plugs, 255 Walbro, SSIM.

If you want quick times at the track you need slicks, playing around with street tires and nitrous is like trying to drag race on ice. If you can't spray right out of the hole and maintain traction you are losing the best part nitrous has to offer. If you just spray in 1st gear and no other you will still be quicker than spraying in all the others.

 

Thanks for the info, it would be for the street with the occasional trip to the track. I would definitely get slicks for the track though lol

One thing is, I'm not sure where you go that info, but I don't have 2 step colder plugs, a walboro, or an SSIM. And I already have I/H/E done.

Wouldn't I also want a window switch as well?? Now I'm even more confused lol

 

Sorry it was tonedef that gave me that.

Ok then I would suggest an upgraded fuep pump either a 190 or 455 and with that a FPR and colder plugs, one step for a 75 and 2 steps for anything over a 100. I run two step colder plugs all the time even n/a.

If you have a manual then you probably want a window switch, but if you have the quicker transmission (auto) its not required.