My 1996 I30 with 75k miles failed emissions due to being NOT READY on three things:

CATALITYC EFFICIENCY STATUS - NOT READY
OXYGEN SENSOR SYSTEM STATUS - NOT READY
EXHAUST GAS RECILCULATION SYSTEM STATUS - NOT READY

The weird thing is that I havent pulled the battery in 3 years and Im driving my car every day 27 miles hw/city each way. When I went for a test I only drove about 5 miles but it wasnt cold outside.

Right now I used a code reader to scan the codes and I saw that indeed those 3 systems were not ready so I jumped in my car and started driving with code reader scanning the computer every few seconds. I took me about 20 minutes of driving before Oxygen Sensor and Exhaus gas systems were ready but Catalyst system still wasnt.

Is there a special procedure in warming up the car for all systems to be ready? In my code reader manual it says every car is different. Whats the procedure for Maxima/I30

thanks for any help, regards, Bart.

 

i'm not sure about nissans, but the cat needs to be over a certain temp in order go generate a readiness code. That cat is the last thing to pass because it takes a while. There is no speical way to do things tho, just drive it like normal and check back in a week it should be ready.

 

I'm thinking Envirotest here in IL recently changed their software or something. 2 yrs ago my stock ECU passed fine. This year it couldn't be read at all like your problem. I went back 3 times and no dice. My scantool read fine and saw no trouble codes at all. Fortunately I have a 2nd ECU and after swapping it all was good. I do know after resetting ECU's, swapping, or jumping a battery you need to drive approx 50mi before the settings take.

 

is your ecu screw stuck between normal and diagnostic mode? this happened to me one before it kept reading not ready because it wasnt

 

Yeah that happened to me once, but nothing will be ready if that happened at the emission. Only three codes were not ready so I guess it might have to do with the ECM or the connectors. Or even the sensors.

 

i have headers, ypipe, high flow cat, and cat back on my 96se and passed emissions with flying colors. maybe go high flow cat?

 

ECU screw? what is that? I havent touched anything in the ECU... is there a switch on the ECU itself? maybe it corroded and need to be wiggled back and forth to connect again?

Thanks for posts, regards, Bart.

 

Just drive your car for a good long while right before getting tested

 

The car has to go thru multiple start, run up to temp, run at speed, and cool down cycles before the "not ready" will clear itself. This is an EPA software trick to prevent clearing codes just before going for inspection. The number of required cycles varies with the year and model, but five full cycles seems to be fairly common...........

 

Im ahaving this same issue. it all began when igot my car back from the body shop. Im assuming either they disconnected the battery, or they left a light on or doors open untill the battery died. When i got the car back, time was wrong and my preset stations were gone.
So i drive it for a while and go to get it inspected, I get kinda the same thing.
Catalyst not ready
evap not ready
O2 Sens heater not ready and
EGR Sys not ready.
They told me to drive it for a while and come back. Ive driven for over 200 miles, go back and get the same thing.
So just how long do i need to drive it before everything is ready???

 

200 miles and your system should be ready. I just pulled mine out of storage, put a new battery in ,replaced 2 o2 sensors drove it 97 miles and all my systems were ready. and i passed inspection. I would check the ecu screw its located on the drivers side gas pedal area. If it not turned all the way to the left(its either left or right i forget) your system will read not ready.

 

For the benefit of those without FSMs I hope you can read it.



I had all my SRTs showing complete in under 20 miles of driving. You just need to mix things up a bit.

 

Clearing DTC codes will set Oxygen, EGR and Catalytic Con Montitors to not ready. No matter how much you drive your car, it will not turn on those monitors until the car has been driven in certain way/pattern atleast twice.

I had to clear some DTC codes on my ECU, because they were accidentally set testing some components. I did not realize that clearing the codes will turn off the O2, EGR and Cat monitors. I drive my car 25 miles each way to work highway and city, and after driving the car for three months, since clearing the code, the three moitors were still not getting set to ready. Then I found this drive cycle in the manual. Follow this and it will set all the monitors to ready.

1. Start the engine when the engine coolant temperature gauge needle points to C. Allow the engine to idle until the gauge needle points between the C and H (normal operating temperature).

2. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 MPH (88km/h), then quickly release the accelerator pedal completely and keep it released for at least 6 seconds.

3. Quickly depress the accelerator pedal for a moment, then drive the vehicle at a speed of 53 to 60 MPH (86 to 96 km/h) for at least 5 minutes.

4. Stop the vehicle.

5. Accelerate the vehicle to 35 MPH (55 km/h) and maintain the speed for 20 seconds.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 at least 3 times.

7. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 MPH (88 km/h) and maintain the speed for at least 3 minutes.

8. Stop the vehicle and turn the engine off.

9. Repeat steps 1 through 8 at least one moretime.

If step 1 through 7 is interrupted, repeat the
preceding step. Any safe driving mode is acceptable
between steps. Do not stop the engine
until step 7 is completed.

 

So after I do step 2, I should be coasting correct?
Now if im coasting, how do i do Step 3? Do I accelerate as usual after step 2 and then do step 3?
im assuming in step 4 im ideling?

I appreciate you info, I need to get my car inspected asap. its been out since Dec.

 

yes, the drive cycle described above mimics an average drive pattern. you can do your normal drive between steps, if obviously you cannot maintain 55 m/h for straight 5 minutes because you had to stop because of the traffic, you just need to start that step over again. Just make sure you dont stop the engine before all the first seven steps have been performed.

Steps 2 and 3 have to be done on a highway or freeway, unless you want to, and have the ability to drive the car for 5 minutes between 53 - 60 in your city without braking

Steps 4,5 and 6 need to be done in city (stop and go driving)

Step 7 - back on the freeway/highway

I planned my route based on the drive cycle, I did it on a Sunday morning when there is not much traffic...

You have to consider that driving 55 m/h for 5 minutes would mean about 6 miles of drive with no stops

Good luck

 

I cant think of any road out here to do this so a crazy idea popped in my head. Can I do it on jackstands? Will this simulate this or do I need the actual drag and load of normal driving?

thank You for replay, regrads, Bart.

 

And which manual was it that you found this in?