I have a 2002 I35 and had blown bulbs on the climate control. I bought bulbs from the dealer and installed them. They worked fine for 3 weeks and a couple went out. I opened and refit them (moved them around) and they worked again after a couple of weeks. Did the same thing and today is day 3 and the bulb went out. I have made sure that the bulbs fit snug and they all work. Is there a way I can get rid of this problem besides getting a new climate control. The are no broken pieces or anything. UGH!

 

As you prolly know its a very common problem, and I had the same occurrence as you with my new replacement bulbs. In a matter of less than 1 year (dont know exactly) some of the new bulbs went out again in the same exact two spots. It must be something with the unit causing them to fail prematurely. Maybe if we could get some expert electronics guru or electrical guy to figure it out????, but we may be out of luck for now.

 

install LEDs

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ad-w-poll.html

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...one-works.html


happy reading!
/thread


IF you don't want to install LEDs (and I can understand why not, it *can* be a PITA, it sounds as if the grounds you have are intermittent...I'd clean up the grounds and see if all is good again. You've got several engine grounds as well as some in the dash.

 

I got a I35 not a Max, so I can live without the LED in the instrument cluster. I just wanted to know if I can do anything to make sure that I dont have to open up the climate control so often and refit the bulbs. I have ordered a few LEDs from auto lumination which I will put in the climate control as well as the clock and I hope that will fit snug!

 

Check Amerikaner's post....you should check your ground wires. Specifically, there should be one around the dash related to that component. You can check the electrical section (EL) of the FSM for the "grounds" in your car. Trace it to the climate control and you can check that ground specifically.

 

Shouldnt grounds issue lead to all 3 bulbs not working as opposed to 2 of them not working? I am opening up the dash this evening to install a new stereo so will see if I can trace the grounds.

 

Believe it or not but one of the things I learned a out the HVAC controls using LEDs is that the polarity is reversed on the bulb behind the "AUTO" button. So the ground is on top and the hot lead is on the bottom. This might account for why only two go out. This would imply a physical issue with the circuit board not getting a good contact with the bulbs. You might want to paint the bulb bases with plasti dip in order to create a tighter fit with the circuit board. I know that is what I did to get a better fit with aftermarket T4 bases. (Which I feel fit very loose in the HVAC without help)

 

I don't want to rain on your parade but those HVAC bulbs you got from Autolumination will just create hot spots and not illuminate your HVAC unit. Just ask me how I know. In fact as far as I know I am the only person out there that makes T4 LEDs that will properly illuminate your HVAC unit. I don't know why they are not widely available as the proper light dispersion tech has been out there for years. I guess just cheapness as 360 degree light dispersion component LEDs are more expensive than other types.

 

lets figure this out, for me it is always the 2 left bulbs. the last one on the right is always fine. What about you mitrals ? which bulbs consistently go out for you?

So Shinjiduo your suggestion is to plastidip the back of the bulbs to get a more snug fit?

Any ideas why only the same two bulbs keep going out?

 

 

Polarity doesn't matter with teh little incandescent bulbs (factory or otherwise), only with LEDs.

Not all LEDs do hotspots...they make 360* LEDs for those applications.

Agreed, sounds like it could be a connection issue if it's not the grounds.

 

True. But the positioning difference might explain why two go out and one stays on. The hot lead is going to experience heat that the ground does not incur hence, it might warp a little over a decade. (Yes even though incandescent lights do not have polarity the electricity still flows the same way hence put a heat strain on the positive contact) This would probably be a far greater factor when the ground is on the bottom of the bulb as opposed to the top because of gravity. But since the effected parties seem to have different lights going out my theory is flat out wrong anyway.

But you won't find any T4 Neo Wedge on the market that use them. Also if you are referring to multi directionals (arrays that use 3 or 5 leds to effect a 360 light dispersion effect) those don't work as well as true 360 LED lights and have to be custom attached to the HVAC board.

That is why I recommend using a good layer of spray on plasti dip. I ensures a snug fit and since it is a rubberized coating it also has the added advantage of increasing friction and hence, eliminating slippage.

 

I was referring to the discrete component 360* LEDs that are actually assembled into the base by hand, like I did with mine, and you do.

 

Don't mean to sound arrogant I was the one to turn everyone on to those and to this day I have the most comprehensive collection of 360 LEDs on the org if not in the US. I was describing that plug and play leds were not available. If you have to attach a base and a resistor it is hardly a plug and play application.