mo neenja31

So I recently replaced my cam sensor for bank 1 and now my car won't start. I'm pretty sure I did everything correctly but I'm not sure why it won't turn over.

mclasser

What brand is the sensor?

Donkeypunch

put the old one in see if its starts

mo neenja31

Dorman part #907-716

mo neenja31

I'll have to test this after I get out from college. The car started up with the old sensor before I replaced it with the new one.

mo neenja31

Alright, I put the old one in there and it started up again. Also, should I clean out the connector? What do I clean it out with?




Also the sensors:

Left is new and right is old sensor.

Donkeypunch

idk man. Now put in the new sensor again
see if u fked up the first time.

Looks like bank 1 and its the right p/n.

mo neenja31

I still have the old sensor in since I had to go to class and work today but I noticed after I shut my car off at work, the car wasn't getting locked by the key fob. No lights flashed or anything. I try to start the car and absolutely nothing happens. Doesn't crank over or anything.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

i told you to replace all 3 in your original thread...... stop wasting your time and get all three, and your wasting our time trying help you as well

mo neenja31

Dude I'm a broke college kid, I can't just run out and spend 300 + on this. Especially when my car won't start anymore. just don't understand why the car would run on my way to college and on my way to work but as soon as I shut it off and try to start it nothing happens. Sorry for the inconvenience

mclasser

That sh^t Dorman part is your problem. Get Hitachi and be done with it.

mo neenja31

I'll have to try that. Before I do, are there any retailers that sell the OEM sensors cheaper than the dealer? I tried checking my local Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts and they didn't have any in store

mclasser

RockAuto has the Hitachi for $46.

mo neenja31

Update: So apparently the connection to the battery got loose because when I went to jump start it, I pulled the red cap and the battery terminal came off with it. Tightened it up and I was back running.




Also noticed that my DTE was pretty good, reaching a high of 395. My previous highest DTE was 367 but I used to get 320 - 333 after filling up prior to all these issues. After all these issues I've been getting low DTEs ranging from 270 - 300 so it's good to see something improve for once.

wellshii19

This.
Certain parts are just plain crap.

wellshii19

Have a side savings for repairs.
This is to add to the post above.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

the unexplainable is in 15 year old electronic sensors, i had the same unexplainable symptoms on my car twice over , over these sensors, i learned the hard way, the dam car turned off on a 4 lane highway while driving with no warnings whatsoever except a flicker on the Headunit LED a second before, no lights powersteering power brakes nothing, i literally used my momemnt to pull into a retail parking lot.

You are lucky, you had a code, you had a safe drive to your destination.

I went to a dealer w no codes asking why my car shut off while driving and almost killed me and other peopel.

they checked the sensors and said the look ok... 2 weeks later its acting weird w un explainable things.

thanks to the org and listening to the small details of using OEM and replacing all 3 the problems went away.

The org helped me more than an almighty dealership.

I get the broke college thing...but health over money... you just didn;t experience a near death sympton with the sensors.

oh and i tried the crap sensors..(for many reasons, one being i tried to specifically ask for OEM, and didnt get oem) .. came back almost exactly a year later (thank god I knew what it was)

mo neenja31

Bit the bullet and bought all three sensors (OEM) from Nissan parts usa. Total was $276 (screw shipping costs lol). Much better than dropping close to $400 on these sensors. I can do the position sensors myself but I am not too sure about how to replace the crankshaft sensor, apparently it's under the car.

maxiiiboy

For placement of these sensors, see this diagram: http://www.courtesyparts.com/auto-pa...ber=237316j90b.

You can buy OEM sensors (they are all made by Hitachi) from Rockauto.com. You should be able to get all three for under $150, so you overpaid a bit. For example, the Camshaft sensor (by Hitachi) is $45.79: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....431954&jsn=380, or Crankshaft/Hitachi (front/lower, $43.79): http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....431954&jsn=390.

Good luck!

mo neenja31

If things couldn't get worse I broke the bolt when trying to remove the sensor and I couldn't get it out with my magnetic wand like last time. Some suggested to drill but with no success. Ending up breaking the drill bit too

Edit: bought 2 more drill bits, still drilling

mo neenja31

More bad news: the new bank 1 sensor still doesn't remedy the issue. Car starts up and dies 3 seconds later

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Use a bolt extractor and get sensors from junkyard. Plug the damn hole so the shavings aren't going in the engine.

maxiiiboy

With new sensors, it's time to look elsewhere. I would:
- Clean the Throttle Body,
- Clean/replace the MAF,
- Clean electrical connectors, and tighten ALL grounds (no offense, but the car looks messy/dirty and you already had one case of bad connection, so make sure there are no other problems of this type),
- Check your coils, as suggested earlier.
Good luck!

Tarzan

My luck with the Delphi sensor from Rock Auto was pretty good.
If your car dies, you may have more than just 1 cam sensor broken. I would look into replacing the 2nd bank cam sensor and crank sensor as well. They are on their way out anyway at this age.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

yes all 3 or walk home.... no brainer

mo neenja31

Coils were replaced a couple months ago and I've only been able to install One sensor so far (bank 1)

maximatech12

With that broken bolt
Try a punch and dig into the edge a bit then smack it a few times it should turn depending on which side you hit​​​​​​ it on.

Tarzan

Start the engine with the old sensor and read the codes. This is what I would do.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

If you have a decent bit it shouldn't take long to drill the bolt out. Run the drill at a very slow speed and keep it wet with some kind of oil. If you run it fast the heat kill the drill bit in a matter of seconds and it'll just spin without cutting.

Tarzan

Sharp bits make a huge difference. There is too much made in China crap these days which comes TIN coated but dull. Stay away from cheap bits, they are a waste of time and money.

MichMaxFan

To the OP...

I don't understand why you:
A. Didn't do as suggested and get Hitachi oem parts from Rockauto at about half of what you paid.
B. Why you aren't pursuing the code that apparently you have from the old sensor. Somebody responded to you about a code you had???
C. Why you don't replace all 3 sensors since you have all 3 new sensors...then see what happens?

This issue seems to be spinning in circles with no forward movement except the bolt issue, now. I'm not good with solving those types of issues.

PB Blaster is your friend. Buy a can. I've grown to love using it. It helps a TON.

Tarzan

Or use acetone and ATF 50/50 mix. Works even better than PB Blaster, but both only work where there is no solid rust in the threads. Should be fine on the engine block bolts like this.

mo neenja31

Replaced both banks. Car starts up instantly this time but still does out on me. Gonna attempt to change the crankshaft sensor but I'm not exactly too sure where it's located

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

.....sensors, are in a TSB, ...you would have been done with this if you did all 3 OEM already.

Tarzan

Read the codes it throws before it dies!
Reading codes must be the 1st step when dealing with OBD II enabled cars.
Clear the pending code, start the engine, if it dies, read the new code it throws.

mo neenja31

- when the suggestion to buy the Hitachi parts was made, I already had the parts. I needed to fix the car asap (but haven't been able to)

- I̶ ̶h̶a̶v̶e̶ ̶p̶u̶r̶s̶u̶e̶d̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶c̶o̶d̶e̶,̶ ̶w̶h̶i̶c̶h̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶w̶h̶y̶ ̶I̶ ̶b̶o̶u̶g̶h̶t̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶s̶e̶n̶s̶o̶r̶s̶ ̶i̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶f̶i̶r̶s̶t̶ ̶p̶l̶a̶c̶e̶.̶ ̶M̶y̶ ̶m̶e̶c̶h̶a̶n̶i̶c̶ ̶t̶o̶l̶d̶ ̶m̶e̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶u̶y̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶s̶e̶n̶s̶o̶r̶s̶

- I'm going to try to replace the crank sensor when it's not raining out. Does anyone have a good picture of the location of this btw? I found a diagram but it's not too helpful


EDIT: Just saw the other posts about pursuing the code it throws now, I'll have to cop an OBII scanner

Tarzan

Watch this video, youtube and google can be quite helpful!

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

nice video ! i wish i saw this before i had a shop do it, luckly the shop was reasonable w the ease of it.

mo neenja31

I saw that video and noticed the repair is done on a Quest. I didn't think the crank shaft sensor would be in the same location but I'll have to see for my self

mo neenja31

Bought a OBII scanner, cleared the codes for the cam position sensors and the car starts and runs! Still getting some other codes. I got P0113 & P0113, so hopefully cleaning the MAF sensor as someone else suggested