There's gotta be a way to boost sooner w/o changing to a smaller pulley...Rods?
#1
There's gotta be a way to boost sooner w/o changing to a smaller pulley...Rods?
The only beef I have with my supercharger is that the power hits too late and too soft in second - fifth gear. I hate the fact that on the highway cruising @ 70mph in 5th the car feels the same that it did when I was normally aspirated! Almost no more pull. I was talking to a Nissan guy and he said something about getting a "shorter rod" to make the boost kick in sooner. What is he talking about? Is there any way to make these things boost sooner? I am 0wNeD by the Eaton Roots type. Centrifugal can't hold a candle to hitting FULL boost at 3 grand and onward to redline. Downshifting is, however, great fun.
I'm running a V1 Vortech w/3.33" pulley and 6:1 FMU disc w/1 step colder plugs, BTW.
I'm running a V1 Vortech w/3.33" pulley and 6:1 FMU disc w/1 step colder plugs, BTW.
#8
Originally posted by seximagtr
yeah ur fine
yeah ur fine
Mardi D'oh! I'm trying to see if theres any realistic way to boost sooner WITHOUT going to smaller pulleys. The smaller the pulley, the harder the blower works, the faster it wears out. My blower has 40k miles with the stock pulley, and 10k with a 3.125. Now I have it and am using the 3.33. I am really scared that my blower is gonna die soon, although Tom said internally everything was tight working just fine. People go when I say how many miles are on it.
Now Mardi, what about these "rods"...
#9
I couldn't fix your brakes, so I made your horn louder
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Originally posted by Craig Mack
Actually, I think that's pushing it. IMO, the 3.33" is the limit for the 6-1. I hit 65psi at WOT which is juuust perfect according to mardi and the gang.
Mardi D'oh! I'm trying to see if theres any realistic way to boost sooner WITHOUT going to smaller pulleys. The smaller the pulley, the harder the blower works, the faster it wears out. My blower has 40k miles with the stock pulley, and 10k with a 3.125. Now I have it and am using the 3.33. I am really scared that my blower is gonna die soon, although Tom said internally everything was tight working just fine. People go when I say how many miles are on it.
Now Mardi, what about these "rods"...
Actually, I think that's pushing it. IMO, the 3.33" is the limit for the 6-1. I hit 65psi at WOT which is juuust perfect according to mardi and the gang.
Mardi D'oh! I'm trying to see if theres any realistic way to boost sooner WITHOUT going to smaller pulleys. The smaller the pulley, the harder the blower works, the faster it wears out. My blower has 40k miles with the stock pulley, and 10k with a 3.125. Now I have it and am using the 3.33. I am really scared that my blower is gonna die soon, although Tom said internally everything was tight working just fine. People go when I say how many miles are on it.
Now Mardi, what about these "rods"...
#10
Are you ever gonna be happy with your car dude?
I dont think there is much that you can do besides going with a smaller pulley. I think Harold's turbo kit is calling your name
I dont think there is much that you can do besides going with a smaller pulley. I think Harold's turbo kit is calling your name
#11
Originally posted by KLoWnPR109
Are you ever gonna be happy with your car dude?
I dont think there is much that you can do besides going with a smaller pulley. I think Harold's turbo kit is calling your name
Are you ever gonna be happy with your car dude?
I dont think there is much that you can do besides going with a smaller pulley. I think Harold's turbo kit is calling your name
Sexima, your right, I thought he said 3.125 for some reason. How much HP difference do you think there is between the 3.33" w/6-1 and the 3.25" w/6-1? Like 10hp @ redline?
#12
Was he talking about connecting rods? God I hope not. What a great plan! We don't want to put on a smaller pulley but lets tear down the whole motor and replace the connecting rods!
BTW Turbo 0wnz centrifugal and Roots blowers
BTW Turbo 0wnz centrifugal and Roots blowers
#13
Originally posted by Nealoc187
Was he talking about connecting rods? God I hope not. What a great plan! We don't want to put on a smaller pulley but lets tear down the whole motor and replace the connecting rods!
Was he talking about connecting rods? God I hope not. What a great plan! We don't want to put on a smaller pulley but lets tear down the whole motor and replace the connecting rods!
#14
Craig a rebuild is only ~$350 my blower started leaking at ~75k. and their is no way to make it boost more sooner than changing the pulley. Rods arent going to do jack
Neal, you may be right about low end boost, but SC relability is much greater than turbo's. You cant over boost with a SC. Over boost will pop a motor fast, and their seems to be a rash of that latley. and SC's are far more drivable than turbos, the power curve of a SC is very liniar, the dynos I have seen of turbo'd Max's peak fast and would be a biotch in any thing other than a straight line.
Can of worms is open
Neal, you may be right about low end boost, but SC relability is much greater than turbo's. You cant over boost with a SC. Over boost will pop a motor fast, and their seems to be a rash of that latley. and SC's are far more drivable than turbos, the power curve of a SC is very liniar, the dynos I have seen of turbo'd Max's peak fast and would be a biotch in any thing other than a straight line.
Can of worms is open
#15
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Craig a rebuild is only ~$350 my blower started leaking at ~75k. and their is no way to make it boost more sooner than changing the pulley. Rods arent going to do jack
Craig a rebuild is only ~$350 my blower started leaking at ~75k. and their is no way to make it boost more sooner than changing the pulley. Rods arent going to do jack
I also know my horribly weak clutch has something to do with my straight line acceleration, and that when the ACT goes in, my tires will actually break lose and I will be thrown back in the seat more violently or "torquey".
Why would he talk about rods if they wouldn't do jack for boost? What do connector rods do anyways? He has a Honda S2000 and works with alot of hondas and soobies, maybe it has benifits for them?
#16
You heard wrong, a basic $350 rebuild only changes the bearings and seals.
I think you just dont under stand what this guy is telling you. It sounds like he knows his stuff but it just gets lost in the translation. You should buy your self a few books about motors and performance. I dont mean to belittle you, I was clue less at one point too, but I edjamacated my self.
Rods are in internal engine component they connect the piston to the crank shaft. Lighter rods may give you more power but very little and not worth the expense. To change them on a Maxima you really need to pull the whole motor, if you are going to go that far a full rebuild with better pistons and rods would be they way to go. Rods are ~$700-1000, piston area about the same. Add in labor, machine work, gaskets, fluids etc and your looking at $3500+ for a basic rebuild with out any bells and wistles other than pistons and rods.
I think you just dont under stand what this guy is telling you. It sounds like he knows his stuff but it just gets lost in the translation. You should buy your self a few books about motors and performance. I dont mean to belittle you, I was clue less at one point too, but I edjamacated my self.
Rods are in internal engine component they connect the piston to the crank shaft. Lighter rods may give you more power but very little and not worth the expense. To change them on a Maxima you really need to pull the whole motor, if you are going to go that far a full rebuild with better pistons and rods would be they way to go. Rods are ~$700-1000, piston area about the same. Add in labor, machine work, gaskets, fluids etc and your looking at $3500+ for a basic rebuild with out any bells and wistles other than pistons and rods.
#17
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
You heard wrong, a basic $350 rebuild only changes the bearings and seals.
You heard wrong, a basic $350 rebuild only changes the bearings and seals.
I was clue less at one point too, but I edjamacated my self.
Rods are in internal engine component they connect the piston to the crank shaft. Lighter rods may give you more power but very little and not worth the expense. To change them on a Maxima you really need to pull the whole motor, if you are going to go that far a full rebuild with better pistons and rods would be they way to go. Rods are ~$700-1000, piston area about the same. Add in labor, machine work, gaskets, fluids etc and your looking at $3500+ for a basic rebuild with out any bells and wistles other than pistons and rods.
#20
Originally posted by GoldenGlory
this is gettin crazy ...times i cant catch with all the info @ once!
this is gettin crazy ...times i cant catch with all the info @ once!
On a different note, i've noticed something. When I got WOT and shift, or let off and put it in nuetral, the SC makes a sound like a rattlesnake. If I floor it and shift around 4500+rpm, it makes a sound like a rattlesnake. Does anyone else notice this? It sounds soo cool. (V1 btw)
#21
Originally posted by Craig Mack
...
Why would he talk about rods if they wouldn't do jack for boost? What do connector rods do anyways? He has a Honda S2000 and works with alot of hondas and soobies, maybe it has benifits for them?
...
Why would he talk about rods if they wouldn't do jack for boost? What do connector rods do anyways? He has a Honda S2000 and works with alot of hondas and soobies, maybe it has benifits for them?
#22
Originally posted by Chunger
He may have been talking about a "stroker" kit or the like... replacing the crank and rods to increase engine displacement. Bigger Displace = more torque (power) being the idea. But it's big bucks and time anyway you slice it.
He may have been talking about a "stroker" kit or the like... replacing the crank and rods to increase engine displacement. Bigger Displace = more torque (power) being the idea. But it's big bucks and time anyway you slice it.
#23
Originally posted by Craig Mack
On a different note, i've noticed something. When I got WOT and shift, or let off and put it in nuetral, the SC makes a sound like a rattlesnake. If I floor it and shift around 4500+rpm, it makes a sound like a rattlesnake. Does anyone else notice this? It sounds soo cool. (V1 btw)
On a different note, i've noticed something. When I got WOT and shift, or let off and put it in nuetral, the SC makes a sound like a rattlesnake. If I floor it and shift around 4500+rpm, it makes a sound like a rattlesnake. Does anyone else notice this? It sounds soo cool. (V1 btw)
#24
Turtle turtle... Moderator
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Re: There's gotta be a way to boost sooner w/o changing to a smaller pulley...Rods?
Originally posted by Craig Mack
The only beef I have with my supercharger is that the power hits too late and too soft in second - fifth gear. I hate the fact that on the highway cruising @ 70mph in 5th the car feels the same that it did when I was normally aspirated! Almost no more pull. I was talking to a Nissan guy and he said something about getting a "shorter rod" to make the boost kick in sooner. What is he talking about? Is there any way to make these things boost sooner? I am 0wNeD by the Eaton Roots type. Centrifugal can't hold a candle to hitting FULL boost at 3 grand and onward to redline. Downshifting is, however, great fun.
I'm running a V1 Vortech w/3.33" pulley and 6:1 FMU disc w/1 step colder plugs, BTW.
The only beef I have with my supercharger is that the power hits too late and too soft in second - fifth gear. I hate the fact that on the highway cruising @ 70mph in 5th the car feels the same that it did when I was normally aspirated! Almost no more pull. I was talking to a Nissan guy and he said something about getting a "shorter rod" to make the boost kick in sooner. What is he talking about? Is there any way to make these things boost sooner? I am 0wNeD by the Eaton Roots type. Centrifugal can't hold a candle to hitting FULL boost at 3 grand and onward to redline. Downshifting is, however, great fun.
I'm running a V1 Vortech w/3.33" pulley and 6:1 FMU disc w/1 step colder plugs, BTW.
if you got a roots blower on your Max youd prolly complain that it has no power up top and you spin your tires too much off the line...everything has a disadvantage and advantage.
#26
Originally posted by i30krab
If you want faster boost call Vortech and ask them about changing impellers. I have a mustang impeller in my V2 unit and it does work!
If you want faster boost call Vortech and ask them about changing impellers. I have a mustang impeller in my V2 unit and it does work!
#27
Originally posted by Craig Mack
How much does that cost, and what exactly does it change? Please tell me all about it.
How much does that cost, and what exactly does it change? Please tell me all about it.
BTW craig I hope my first post in this thread didn't make me come off as an ***, I just wasn't sure what the guy you were talking to was getting at and was taken aback that he would suggest changing the con rods as an efficient and cost effective way to increase boost. Sorry if I sounded like I was being mean or belittling your knowledge or anything.
#28
Originally posted by Craig Mack
Hey, $350 is a nice chunk of cash! And Mardi, i'm really concerned becuase I still would want it to be rebuilt with V1 internals. I hear they only rebuild with V2 internals. I hate that quietness...I don't think I could live without the lovable whine and chatter of the crickets!!
I also know my horribly weak clutch has something to do with my straight line acceleration, and that when the ACT goes in, my tires will actually break lose and I will be thrown back in the seat more violently or "torquey".
Why would he talk about rods if they wouldn't do jack for boost? What do connector rods do anyways? He has a Honda S2000 and works with alot of hondas and soobies, maybe it has benifits for them?
Hey, $350 is a nice chunk of cash! And Mardi, i'm really concerned becuase I still would want it to be rebuilt with V1 internals. I hear they only rebuild with V2 internals. I hate that quietness...I don't think I could live without the lovable whine and chatter of the crickets!!
I also know my horribly weak clutch has something to do with my straight line acceleration, and that when the ACT goes in, my tires will actually break lose and I will be thrown back in the seat more violently or "torquey".
Why would he talk about rods if they wouldn't do jack for boost? What do connector rods do anyways? He has a Honda S2000 and works with alot of hondas and soobies, maybe it has benifits for them?
Trade you my V1 for your V2!
#29
Originally posted by iansw
Trade you my V1 for your V2!
Trade you my V1 for your V2!
Nealoc, Thanks for the explination. No offense taken from your first post. You actually reminded me of what he was saying w/your guessing. Were all here to learn and share knowledge...except Jeffrey. He's here to belittle me.
The V1 and V2 SC's do everything a turbo does, except they run off the engine belts. Am I right? If so, what's the upsides of using it? You get the parasitic lag of a turbo, without the boostability.
#30
Originally posted by Craig Mack
WTF?
Nealoc, Thanks for the explination. No offense taken from your first post. You actually reminded me of what he was saying w/your guessing. Were all hear to learn and share knowledge..except Jeffrey. He's hear to belittle me.
The V1 and V2 SC's do everything a turbo does, except they run off the engine belts. Am I right? If so, what's the upsides of using it? You get the parasitic lag of a turbo, without the boostability.
WTF?
Nealoc, Thanks for the explination. No offense taken from your first post. You actually reminded me of what he was saying w/your guessing. Were all hear to learn and share knowledge..except Jeffrey. He's hear to belittle me.
The V1 and V2 SC's do everything a turbo does, except they run off the engine belts. Am I right? If so, what's the upsides of using it? You get the parasitic lag of a turbo, without the boostability.
#31
Originally posted by iansw
Seriously - I hate the noise from the V1.....I'm so sick of idiots telling me I have a belt slipping....
Seriously - I hate the noise from the V1.....I'm so sick of idiots telling me I have a belt slipping....
OMG, I couldn't disagree with you more. At idle it sounds like crickets, not a slipping belt. Like you said, only idiots would think that. And it only takes one tiny revv for the blower to make a high pitched compressor like whine that screams "supercharger". My triple white faced gauges also give me away. The BOV is by far the best part. Going through intersections, making left turns, letting off the gas and hearing the PSSSHHHH. The faces I get are priceless.
I used to think my friends Lightning sounded the best. But I honestly like the way this sounds. It's audible at idle, makes a sweet whine when slightly revved, and makes an amazing 3D roar at full throttle.
#32
Originally posted by Craig Mack
I was sayin' WTF becuase I also have a V1 and you were asking to buy my "V2".
OMG, I couldn't disagree with you more. At idle it sounds like crickets, not a slipping belt. Like you said, only idiots would think that. And it only takes one tiny revv for the blower to make a high pitched compressor like whine that screams "supercharger". My triple white faced gauges also give me away. The BOV is by far the best part. Going through intersections, making left turns, letting off the gas and hearing the PSSSHHHH. The faces I get are priceless.
I used to think my friends Lightning sounded the best. But I honestly like the way this sounds. It's audible at idle, makes a sweet whine when slightly revved, and makes an amazing 3D roar at full throttle.
I was sayin' WTF becuase I also have a V1 and you were asking to buy my "V2".
OMG, I couldn't disagree with you more. At idle it sounds like crickets, not a slipping belt. Like you said, only idiots would think that. And it only takes one tiny revv for the blower to make a high pitched compressor like whine that screams "supercharger". My triple white faced gauges also give me away. The BOV is by far the best part. Going through intersections, making left turns, letting off the gas and hearing the PSSSHHHH. The faces I get are priceless.
I used to think my friends Lightning sounded the best. But I honestly like the way this sounds. It's audible at idle, makes a sweet whine when slightly revved, and makes an amazing 3D roar at full throttle.
You know, I've never gotten the "Pssshhhht" sound. I always get "Pblublublublub". I have one of the old Blitz Supersound BOV's.
Does having a 5spd make a difference on BOV noise? Guess I'll find out soon.
#33
Originally posted by iansw
Ah, I thought you were trying to rebuild a V2 with V1 parts....
You know, I've never gotten the "Pssshhhht" sound. I always get "Pblublublublub". I have one of the old Blitz Supersound BOV's.
Does having a 5spd make a difference on BOV noise? Guess I'll find out soon.
Ah, I thought you were trying to rebuild a V2 with V1 parts....
You know, I've never gotten the "Pssshhhht" sound. I always get "Pblublublublub". I have one of the old Blitz Supersound BOV's.
Does having a 5spd make a difference on BOV noise? Guess I'll find out soon.
You will hear the BOV alot more when shifting with a 5spd, as the auto shifts instantly. The gearing will effect it too.
#34
I couldn't fix your brakes, so I made your horn louder
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Originally posted by iansw
Ah, I thought you were trying to rebuild a V2 with V1 parts....
You know, I've never gotten the "Pssshhhht" sound. I always get "Pblublublublub". I have one of the old Blitz Supersound BOV's.
Does having a 5spd make a difference on BOV noise? Guess I'll find out soon.
Ah, I thought you were trying to rebuild a V2 with V1 parts....
You know, I've never gotten the "Pssshhhht" sound. I always get "Pblublublublub". I have one of the old Blitz Supersound BOV's.
Does having a 5spd make a difference on BOV noise? Guess I'll find out soon.
You can't hear the bov very well when I shift, but on the softer settings, it's there.
#36
Originally posted by Maximamike
Wow, you have absolutely no idea wtf you're talking about.
Wow, you have absolutely no idea wtf you're talking about.
And by gearing I mean you will be higher/lower in the revvs depending what gear your in and what speed your at. For instance, at 70mph autos are around 2400, whereas the 5spd is around 3000, therefore when the 5spd lets off the gas, you will hear a louder PSHHH from the BOV.
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