Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.

There's gotta be a way to boost sooner w/o changing to a smaller pulley...Rods?

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Old 01-24-2003, 07:09 PM
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There's gotta be a way to boost sooner w/o changing to a smaller pulley...Rods?

The only beef I have with my supercharger is that the power hits too late and too soft in second - fifth gear. I hate the fact that on the highway cruising @ 70mph in 5th the car feels the same that it did when I was normally aspirated! Almost no more pull. I was talking to a Nissan guy and he said something about getting a "shorter rod" to make the boost kick in sooner. What is he talking about? Is there any way to make these things boost sooner? I am 0wNeD by the Eaton Roots type. Centrifugal can't hold a candle to hitting FULL boost at 3 grand and onward to redline. Downshifting is, however, great fun.

I'm running a V1 Vortech w/3.33" pulley and 6:1 FMU disc w/1 step colder plugs, BTW.
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Old 01-24-2003, 07:37 PM
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Re: There's gotta be a way to boost sooner w/o changing to a smaller pulley...Rods?

time for the 2.87
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Old 01-24-2003, 07:39 PM
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Re: Re: There's gotta be a way to boost sooner w/o changing to a smaller pulley...Rods?

Originally posted by seximagtr
time for the 2.87
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Old 01-25-2003, 05:18 AM
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Perhaps a 3.125?
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Old 01-25-2003, 10:29 AM
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Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Perhaps a 3.125?
Check my "for sale" thread if you're looking for a 3.125" pulley .
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Old 01-25-2003, 11:12 AM
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am i ok with the 3.25 pulley n 6:1 FMU ?

 
Old 01-25-2003, 11:50 AM
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yeah ur fine
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Old 01-25-2003, 01:24 PM
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Originally posted by seximagtr
yeah ur fine
Actually, I think that's pushing it. IMO, the 3.33" is the limit for the 6-1. I hit 65psi at WOT which is juuust perfect according to mardi and the gang.

Mardi D'oh! I'm trying to see if theres any realistic way to boost sooner WITHOUT going to smaller pulleys. The smaller the pulley, the harder the blower works, the faster it wears out. My blower has 40k miles with the stock pulley, and 10k with a 3.125. Now I have it and am using the 3.33. I am really scared that my blower is gonna die soon, although Tom said internally everything was tight working just fine. People go when I say how many miles are on it.

Now Mardi, what about these "rods"...
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Old 01-25-2003, 02:17 PM
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Originally posted by Craig Mack


Actually, I think that's pushing it. IMO, the 3.33" is the limit for the 6-1. I hit 65psi at WOT which is juuust perfect according to mardi and the gang.

Mardi D'oh! I'm trying to see if theres any realistic way to boost sooner WITHOUT going to smaller pulleys. The smaller the pulley, the harder the blower works, the faster it wears out. My blower has 40k miles with the stock pulley, and 10k with a 3.125. Now I have it and am using the 3.33. I am really scared that my blower is gonna die soon, although Tom said internally everything was tight working just fine. People go when I say how many miles are on it.

Now Mardi, what about these "rods"...
no he'll be fine... nymjayjay was running the 3.25 inch pulley with the 6:1 disc and didn't have any problems with running lean at all. It's when you go any smaller than the 3.25 you need to change to the 8:1
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Old 01-25-2003, 02:32 PM
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Are you ever gonna be happy with your car dude?

I dont think there is much that you can do besides going with a smaller pulley. I think Harold's turbo kit is calling your name
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Old 01-25-2003, 03:38 PM
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Originally posted by KLoWnPR109
Are you ever gonna be happy with your car dude?

I dont think there is much that you can do besides going with a smaller pulley. I think Harold's turbo kit is calling your name
I am happy with my car. I love having a "Supercharged" Maxima. My car is one of a kind. (not on the org obviously) I just was wondering if boost could be achieved sooner without going to a smaller pulley. I know that when I get an ACT clutch, it will solve alot of my problems.

Sexima, your right, I thought he said 3.125 for some reason. How much HP difference do you think there is between the 3.33" w/6-1 and the 3.25" w/6-1? Like 10hp @ redline?
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Old 01-25-2003, 03:50 PM
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Was he talking about connecting rods? God I hope not. What a great plan! We don't want to put on a smaller pulley but lets tear down the whole motor and replace the connecting rods!


BTW Turbo 0wnz centrifugal and Roots blowers
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Old 01-25-2003, 04:07 PM
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Originally posted by Nealoc187
Was he talking about connecting rods? God I hope not. What a great plan! We don't want to put on a smaller pulley but lets tear down the whole motor and replace the connecting rods!
I think that's what he was talking about, yeah I'm almost positive it is. Well if he offers to do it cheap, why not? And do you think it would change anything? Significantly?
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Old 01-25-2003, 04:43 PM
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Craig a rebuild is only ~$350 my blower started leaking at ~75k. and their is no way to make it boost more sooner than changing the pulley. Rods arent going to do jack

Neal, you may be right about low end boost, but SC relability is much greater than turbo's. You cant over boost with a SC. Over boost will pop a motor fast, and their seems to be a rash of that latley. and SC's are far more drivable than turbos, the power curve of a SC is very liniar, the dynos I have seen of turbo'd Max's peak fast and would be a biotch in any thing other than a straight line.


Can of worms is open
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Old 01-25-2003, 04:50 PM
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Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Craig a rebuild is only ~$350 my blower started leaking at ~75k. and their is no way to make it boost more sooner than changing the pulley. Rods arent going to do jack
Hey, $350 is a nice chunk of cash! And Mardi, i'm really concerned becuase I still would want it to be rebuilt with V1 internals. I hear they only rebuild with V2 internals. I hate that quietness...I don't think I could live without the lovable whine and chatter of the crickets!!

I also know my horribly weak clutch has something to do with my straight line acceleration, and that when the ACT goes in, my tires will actually break lose and I will be thrown back in the seat more violently or "torquey".

Why would he talk about rods if they wouldn't do jack for boost? What do connector rods do anyways? He has a Honda S2000 and works with alot of hondas and soobies, maybe it has benifits for them?
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Old 01-25-2003, 05:24 PM
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You heard wrong, a basic $350 rebuild only changes the bearings and seals.

I think you just dont under stand what this guy is telling you. It sounds like he knows his stuff but it just gets lost in the translation. You should buy your self a few books about motors and performance. I dont mean to belittle you, I was clue less at one point too, but I edjamacated my self.

Rods are in internal engine component they connect the piston to the crank shaft. Lighter rods may give you more power but very little and not worth the expense. To change them on a Maxima you really need to pull the whole motor, if you are going to go that far a full rebuild with better pistons and rods would be they way to go. Rods are ~$700-1000, piston area about the same. Add in labor, machine work, gaskets, fluids etc and your looking at $3500+ for a basic rebuild with out any bells and wistles other than pistons and rods.
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Old 01-25-2003, 05:33 PM
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Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
You heard wrong, a basic $350 rebuild only changes the bearings and seals.
Yeah, I thought those were the parts that give the V1 it's trademark whine.

I was clue less at one point too, but I edjamacated my self.
It's funny, becuase on the .org I am a newbie to engine mechanics. But in real life, I know sooo much more then the average person. A fellow student of mine thinks his '95 Mustang GT makes 265HP. Why does he think this? Becuase the new mustangs are 4.6 liters and make 260hp, so his 5.0's gotta make more! I come off as a god of the car world compared to him, you wouldn't even waste your breathe on him.

Rods are in internal engine component they connect the piston to the crank shaft. Lighter rods may give you more power but very little and not worth the expense. To change them on a Maxima you really need to pull the whole motor, if you are going to go that far a full rebuild with better pistons and rods would be they way to go. Rods are ~$700-1000, piston area about the same. Add in labor, machine work, gaskets, fluids etc and your looking at $3500+ for a basic rebuild with out any bells and wistles other than pistons and rods.
Makes sense, thanks for the 1-up. This isn't Turbo Tom btw, it's a friend of his who owns a car club with an S2k and happens to be a manager at Nissan.
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Old 01-25-2003, 05:35 PM
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Btw, Check your PM's Mardi.
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Old 01-26-2003, 11:06 AM
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this is gettin crazy ...times i cant catch with all the info @ once!
 
Old 01-27-2003, 03:10 PM
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Originally posted by GoldenGlory
this is gettin crazy ...times i cant catch with all the info @ once!
I hear that...boosting is a headache...but in the end is ALL worth it.

On a different note, i've noticed something. When I got WOT and shift, or let off and put it in nuetral, the SC makes a sound like a rattlesnake. If I floor it and shift around 4500+rpm, it makes a sound like a rattlesnake. Does anyone else notice this? It sounds soo cool. (V1 btw)
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Old 01-27-2003, 04:53 PM
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Originally posted by Craig Mack


...

Why would he talk about rods if they wouldn't do jack for boost? What do connector rods do anyways? He has a Honda S2000 and works with alot of hondas and soobies, maybe it has benifits for them?
He may have been talking about a "stroker" kit or the like... replacing the crank and rods to increase engine displacement. Bigger Displace = more torque (power) being the idea. But it's big bucks and time anyway you slice it.
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Old 01-27-2003, 07:06 PM
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Originally posted by Chunger


He may have been talking about a "stroker" kit or the like... replacing the crank and rods to increase engine displacement. Bigger Displace = more torque (power) being the idea. But it's big bucks and time anyway you slice it.
Yup.
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Old 01-27-2003, 09:02 PM
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Originally posted by Craig Mack
On a different note, i've noticed something. When I got WOT and shift, or let off and put it in nuetral, the SC makes a sound like a rattlesnake. If I floor it and shift around 4500+rpm, it makes a sound like a rattlesnake. Does anyone else notice this? It sounds soo cool. (V1 btw)
Maybe its your BOV if you have one.
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Old 01-27-2003, 10:01 PM
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Re: There's gotta be a way to boost sooner w/o changing to a smaller pulley...Rods?

Originally posted by Craig Mack
The only beef I have with my supercharger is that the power hits too late and too soft in second - fifth gear. I hate the fact that on the highway cruising @ 70mph in 5th the car feels the same that it did when I was normally aspirated! Almost no more pull. I was talking to a Nissan guy and he said something about getting a "shorter rod" to make the boost kick in sooner. What is he talking about? Is there any way to make these things boost sooner? I am 0wNeD by the Eaton Roots type. Centrifugal can't hold a candle to hitting FULL boost at 3 grand and onward to redline. Downshifting is, however, great fun.

I'm running a V1 Vortech w/3.33" pulley and 6:1 FMU disc w/1 step colder plugs, BTW.

if you got a roots blower on your Max youd prolly complain that it has no power up top and you spin your tires too much off the line...everything has a disadvantage and advantage.
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Old 01-28-2003, 04:15 PM
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If you want faster boost call Vortech and ask them about changing impellers. I have a mustang impeller in my V2 unit and it does work!
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Old 01-28-2003, 04:28 PM
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Originally posted by i30krab
If you want faster boost call Vortech and ask them about changing impellers. I have a mustang impeller in my V2 unit and it does work!
How much does that cost, and what exactly does it change? Please tell me all about it.
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Old 01-28-2003, 08:14 PM
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Originally posted by Craig Mack


How much does that cost, and what exactly does it change? Please tell me all about it.
Vortech blowers use the compressor side of a Turbonetics turbo IIRC. Just like you can change the impeller in a turbo, you can change the impeller in a vortech SC to flow more air. Cost is something I can't shed any light on though. It's really common with other vortech blowers (mustangs for example have S trim, T trim, etc) all pertaining to the impeller they are using in their compressor.

BTW craig I hope my first post in this thread didn't make me come off as an ***, I just wasn't sure what the guy you were talking to was getting at and was taken aback that he would suggest changing the con rods as an efficient and cost effective way to increase boost. Sorry if I sounded like I was being mean or belittling your knowledge or anything.
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Old 01-28-2003, 09:59 PM
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Originally posted by Craig Mack


Hey, $350 is a nice chunk of cash! And Mardi, i'm really concerned becuase I still would want it to be rebuilt with V1 internals. I hear they only rebuild with V2 internals. I hate that quietness...I don't think I could live without the lovable whine and chatter of the crickets!!

I also know my horribly weak clutch has something to do with my straight line acceleration, and that when the ACT goes in, my tires will actually break lose and I will be thrown back in the seat more violently or "torquey".

Why would he talk about rods if they wouldn't do jack for boost? What do connector rods do anyways? He has a Honda S2000 and works with alot of hondas and soobies, maybe it has benifits for them?

Trade you my V1 for your V2!
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Old 01-29-2003, 02:40 PM
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Originally posted by iansw



Trade you my V1 for your V2!
WTF?

Nealoc, Thanks for the explination. No offense taken from your first post. You actually reminded me of what he was saying w/your guessing. Were all here to learn and share knowledge...except Jeffrey. He's here to belittle me.

The V1 and V2 SC's do everything a turbo does, except they run off the engine belts. Am I right? If so, what's the upsides of using it? You get the parasitic lag of a turbo, without the boostability.
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Old 01-29-2003, 02:42 PM
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Originally posted by Craig Mack


WTF?

Nealoc, Thanks for the explination. No offense taken from your first post. You actually reminded me of what he was saying w/your guessing. Were all hear to learn and share knowledge..except Jeffrey. He's hear to belittle me.

The V1 and V2 SC's do everything a turbo does, except they run off the engine belts. Am I right? If so, what's the upsides of using it? You get the parasitic lag of a turbo, without the boostability.
Seriously - I hate the noise from the V1.....I'm so sick of idiots telling me I have a belt slipping....
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Old 01-29-2003, 02:47 PM
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Originally posted by iansw


Seriously - I hate the noise from the V1.....I'm so sick of idiots telling me I have a belt slipping....
I was sayin' WTF becuase I also have a V1 and you were asking to buy my "V2".

OMG, I couldn't disagree with you more. At idle it sounds like crickets, not a slipping belt. Like you said, only idiots would think that. And it only takes one tiny revv for the blower to make a high pitched compressor like whine that screams "supercharger". My triple white faced gauges also give me away. The BOV is by far the best part. Going through intersections, making left turns, letting off the gas and hearing the PSSSHHHH. The faces I get are priceless.

I used to think my friends Lightning sounded the best. But I honestly like the way this sounds. It's audible at idle, makes a sweet whine when slightly revved, and makes an amazing 3D roar at full throttle.
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Old 01-29-2003, 03:14 PM
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Originally posted by Craig Mack


I was sayin' WTF becuase I also have a V1 and you were asking to buy my "V2".

OMG, I couldn't disagree with you more. At idle it sounds like crickets, not a slipping belt. Like you said, only idiots would think that. And it only takes one tiny revv for the blower to make a high pitched compressor like whine that screams "supercharger". My triple white faced gauges also give me away. The BOV is by far the best part. Going through intersections, making left turns, letting off the gas and hearing the PSSSHHHH. The faces I get are priceless.

I used to think my friends Lightning sounded the best. But I honestly like the way this sounds. It's audible at idle, makes a sweet whine when slightly revved, and makes an amazing 3D roar at full throttle.
Ah, I thought you were trying to rebuild a V2 with V1 parts....

You know, I've never gotten the "Pssshhhht" sound. I always get "Pblublublublub". I have one of the old Blitz Supersound BOV's.

Does having a 5spd make a difference on BOV noise? Guess I'll find out soon.
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Old 01-29-2003, 03:30 PM
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Originally posted by iansw


Ah, I thought you were trying to rebuild a V2 with V1 parts....

You know, I've never gotten the "Pssshhhht" sound. I always get "Pblublublublub". I have one of the old Blitz Supersound BOV's.

Does having a 5spd make a difference on BOV noise? Guess I'll find out soon.
I have an older style blitz as well. I think it's the ss kind. But it definatally makes a nice Pshhhh sound. ON a full throttle run through a gear, when I shift it into nuetral the BOV will make a rattlesnake like sound that sounds amazing. Other then that its a smooth pshh.

You will hear the BOV alot more when shifting with a 5spd, as the auto shifts instantly. The gearing will effect it too.
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Old 01-29-2003, 05:50 PM
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Originally posted by iansw


Ah, I thought you were trying to rebuild a V2 with V1 parts....

You know, I've never gotten the "Pssshhhht" sound. I always get "Pblublublublub". I have one of the old Blitz Supersound BOV's.

Does having a 5spd make a difference on BOV noise? Guess I'll find out soon.
my greddy type s bov makes a reallly loud pshh... audible for quit a distance when you let off from redline. no blublublu here

You can't hear the bov very well when I shift, but on the softer settings, it's there.
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Old 02-03-2003, 02:39 PM
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Originally posted by Craig Mack
You will hear the BOV alot more when shifting with a 5spd, as the auto shifts instantly. The gearing will effect it too.
Wow, you have absolutely no idea wtf you're talking about.
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Old 02-03-2003, 02:44 PM
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Originally posted by Maximamike


Wow, you have absolutely no idea wtf you're talking about.
Ok...so why don't you prove me wrong? Mr. tough internet man.

And by gearing I mean you will be higher/lower in the revvs depending what gear your in and what speed your at. For instance, at 70mph autos are around 2400, whereas the 5spd is around 3000, therefore when the 5spd lets off the gas, you will hear a louder PSHHH from the BOV.
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