I went to Sears yesterday to pick up a set of socket drive hex bits primarly for taking the SC off the plate. However, they only had SAE sizes, and I didn't know if that was right.

What size hex bits are needed for taking the SC off the plate, and installing the SC? I can't find reference to it in the instructions...

 

I am at work right now but my guess is 5mm, 8mm and 5/32MM

 

Would you be able to check for me tonight? I was going to hunt around for them tomorrow after work, as I can't go tonight.

Are you sure they're all Metric? 'Cause if they are I'll just buy a metric set.

Thanks.

 

This thread has the information: hex sizes

Cliff notes version is that the bolts are standard, not metric, hex keys needed are 7/32 and 5/16 but an 8mm hex works better for the 5/16 hex bolts because of a snugger fit (.315" vs .3125").

 

Thank you.

Are air tools really necessary to get the plate off? Brute strength won't cut it?

 

I dunno. I have a compressor, so I've only used air tools to loosen the bolts. If Stillen used a lot of Loctite (I found plenty of evidence of that), then it may be really difficult to break the bolts loose without breaking the 7/32 hex bit. You can make it easier by heating the bolt with a torch first. That gets the Loctite nice and soft.

 

a friendly reminder to you : hand-tight the bolt when you put it back on. It is very easy to strip those hex bolts. Mardigras uses anti seize on the bolts.


the bolts on the plate to blower are 8mm and 7/32. so you have to get both SAE and metric.

here is a link to the stillen part no. of these two bolts. credit : delio
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=182200

hope you will never need to use it

 

Yeah, I figure after getting these off the first time, it should be easy after that. If I can't do them by hand I'll see if I can't get them done somewhere.

 

you might have to take to a shop with air tools.


some people ended up heat up wht plate a little bit to unbolt those mothers. Stillen uses quite a lot of loctite.


A lot people end up either 1) break the hex socket or 2) strip the hex bolts. on the one that I stripped, I used a trox socket and hammered it in to unbolt it.


be careful!

 

How do you steady the SC + plate? Vice?

 

If you're using hand tools, yes, you've got to clamp it down real good with a vise. I don't think there's any way around that, unless you've got a friend built like a gorilla.

 

I was wondering what you use with air tools.

 

That's the nice thing about an impact wrench. The pulsing torque it delivers makes it able to tighten and loosen bolts without having to clamp the workpiece down in a vise. For instance, I can jack up my car with the wheels off the ground and still loosen the lug nuts with the impact wrench. Back in the old days, I'd jack up the car onto jack stands, get out the breaker bar, then realize I hadn't loosened the lug nuts first, lower the car, break the lug nuts free, jack the car back up. Then I'd have to take a rest before finishing the job.

 

Anyone know the approx torque needed to break the bolts loose? Just talked to my dad and he can snag an electric impact wrench (claimed 200ft-lbs) for the weekend.

200 should be more than enough, shouldn't it?

 

Maybe. I used an impact wrench rated at 340 ft-lbs. I don't think I maxed it out removing the bolts, so maybe 200 will be enough. Depends on how much Loctite they used. Again, using a torch to heat the bolts up will soften up the Loctite, if you run into problems.

 

Thanks for the help. One way or another I'll get 'em out!

 

sh!aat I gave you the wrong size for the plate is not 5/32 is another size you only need two sizes.


"DO NOT USE AIR TOOLS TO REMOVE THOSE ALLEN BOLTS" your chances of stripping them are very good. use the 3/8 ratchet and slide a fence pipe over it, if not youll snap the smaller allen size socket. If that was to happen buy craftsman 7/32<----(I believe this is the correct size) why craftsman because you can take the plate to sears go outside with the 3/8 ratchet and the fence pipe and continue the mission of removing all the bolts in front of sears and if you snap them you can go back in and get another one for free. I did it as well as someone else did it and when you install the bolts back on just hand tighten them. If you ever remove the plate youll see how tight they get on their own. I used anteseize on the bolts on when I reinstalled it.

 

Wow, this thread was a waste of space!

I got the sockets that I needed from Home Depot, grabed my 1/2" drive ratchet, breaker bar and torch and headed into the basement expecting to have to battle to get these damn bolts out.

About 2 minutes later I was done. Took minimal effort...maybe around 50ft-lbs worth of effort each. Didn't even need the breaker bar.

Pratically no loctite at all. Lets hope the rest of the install is that easy!

 

lucky you~

I torque them back to 25lb/ft for the 8mm and 15lb/ft for the 7/32 with no antiseize.

are you doing a pulley swap or replacing a belt?

 

Replacing the belt (Gatorback). I also figured I'd "fight" with the blots now before they got gunked up on the car or anything. I wanted to break them loose, grease 'em, and put them back before I installed it.

 

ic....so the original belt shredded?

is there a belt alignment problem?

 

No, I haven't installed the SC yet. I figured I'd put a better belt on when I had the oppertunity. The gates belt will be my backup.