Drove down to Bellingham, Wa. to get in on the $30 for 2 runs end of the season deal yesterday.

I've got the stock Stillen/Vortech FMU, no CAI, 1 step colder plugs and 3.33" pulley.

Since it was my first time dyno I talked with the guy before the run about what to do. Since I was an autotragic they told me to just mash the gas pedal when ready.

First run I did 225.6 and 219.6 torque.
Second run I did 222.4 and 238.6 torque.

Here are the links to the graphs:

Run #1
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...57_28_full.jpg

Run #2
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...57_29_full.jpg


My AF ratio was 10:1 most of the time. I was told that I was running very rich.

Any comments on this and what should I do next? Cartech FMU perhaps?

 

why'd they let off so early? looks like they let off right after 6k.

10:1 is pig rich. S-AFC will let you bring down your AFR to a certain extent. also an adjustable fuel pressure regulator would help with getting your richness down.

i am assuming you are running the stock FPR? did you check your codes? maybe you have something wrong. looks like your numbers are low even by auto standards. good luck.

--Paul

 

You badly need an adjustable FMU.

<And not just because I'm selling one soon>

Besides that, even with a 10:1 AFR, Your car shouldn't lose THAT much power at high end. That drop after 5k is INSANE.

Looks like you may have a Cat or Knock Sensor issue. Not totally sure since I've never seen numbers drop like that before.

That's nuts. Your Dyno should look more like this:

http://www.cyberhub.net/dyno/Dyno101902.jpg

IanS

 

FPR's only help adjust idle for cars running larger injectors - since BlackCat is running stock Injectors, then I don't think he needs an Adjustable FPR. (Unless his stock one is bad).

S-AFC only changes injector pulse width and is not good for tuning +/- 2 full points. It's good for "evening out the line" and fine-tuning.

The Cartech Adjustable FMU or the Vortech Super FMU is what he needs - allows fuel pressure to be adjusted under load with boost.

BlackCat - What are your gauges telling you? Do you have a Boost, Fuel Pressure, and EGT Gauge set yet?

 

Yeah those sounds like numbers similar to Maximan...except he was running much richer. As Ian said, a Cartech FMU or a Vortech SFMU will definately get you up to where you are suppose to be at. What else you running for mods? I remember hearing that you don't have much mods other than the S/C.

S

 

I have the Boost and EGT gauges. I hit 9 lbs boost and temp was around 1200 fahrenheit.

 

Yeah Looks like you may as well hold that FMU for me but I don't know when the next time I'll drive down. Maybe next spring? Yep, I do get some knocking on hard acceleration but I have not had any check engine lights come on since putting on the SC.

 

Well, looking at that drop I'm thinking something is wrong besides just needing to tune your fuel. Since the fuel Curve doesn't match the power curve, it's got to be something else.

Does your boost fluctuate at all at high RPM, or does it just rise steadily?

You hsould also invest in a Fuel Pressure gauge. That may tell you something also - but like I said, because the fuel curve isn't following the Dyno numbers or getting jittery or anything at that drop, I'm pretty sure fuel isn't your problem.

It may very well be that your belt slips bad at high RPM?

 

Belt slippage, crushed s/c air intake filter, they dynoed your car incorrectly...

Please tell me they didn't leave your car in OD when they dynoed it!!! That looks like a shift from 3rd to OD (4th) to me!! I'm positive that your car shifts right at 6K RPM when left to do its own thing...

 

Ooooh.

Good point - you didn't have O/D on, did ya?

 

Heh heh...I just edited my post as I realized what I typed...

 

I am guessing if the boost gauge saw 9 psi no slipage.BTW made good progress today

I am with Ian... I think your KS is bad.

Pull your ecu codes and see what you get

 

But if the KS was bad it wouldn't be that severe and also it would start at about 3200RPM, as I've seen a Maxima with a bad KS Dyno before.

 

well I was guessing. I have never seen a dyno of a car with a bad KS. It was my understanding it hurt high rpm performance ( 4500 + ).

But I could be wrong.

And you have more information than I on this, and most, subject(s)

 

I still say it's a shift from 3rd to OD...the dropoff happens exactly when the tranny shifts under WOT...

 

yeah but with 9 PSI and 220 WHP 230 WTQ there is a problem.

That is 6 PSI area.

I know I can't compare jello to tang, but I made 230 WHP 230 WTQ @ 6 PSI with the turbo @ 10:1 A/f and a NON working MEVI.

 

That's definately a possibility - I'm leaning that way myself on the O/D issue.

 

How do you NOT shift yourself?

I learned that VERY quickly when it came to racing/dynoing.

And with the tach being 200+ rpms off, Ian should be using his SAFC to redline

 

I guess the real question is where did he see 9 PSi (what RPM-which gear) ? Either the guy let off or the tranny shifted, but I'm having a hard time seeing that plot as 9 PSi...

Who knows ?

 

well i felt pretty good about my run when I hit a 232 hp on the stock pulley with ny setup...it does seem you are a bit low...especially with the 3.33 pulley installed...i prolly didnt even see 6 lbs on my run ...I wasnt watching the boost guage on the first run they did on mine.

 

????

I didn't have the SAFC when I did that Dyno....

 

It rises steadily without any fluctuation.


Nope, no belt slippage at all thank goodness!

There's a specialty shop up here called Bishops that does Vortech stuff. I'll have to give them a call to see if they can tune it.

 

Shoot, now that you mentioned it I can't remember if I locked out the OD or not.

 

Stupid me...on the first run I watched the speedometer. On the second run I watched the boost gauge climb up to 9 lbs but I don't recall which gear I was in. I noticed that the rpms would go into the top end of the yellow zone on each shift.

From what you guys are saying it sounds like I didn't dyno it properly?

 

When you have a bad knock sensor your car does not start at 3200 rpm. The knock sensor affects 3000 rpm and lower alot and above that a little.

He said the temperature was 1200 degrees F. Isn't that really hard, maybe he is running lean?

Could be O/D though, he would still be in third on the dyno though. Anything a little above 35 mph barely stepping on the trottle the car drops a gear, so he would still be in third.

 

City driving my temp ranges between 800 to 1000 degrees F. When I stomp the throttle its normally around 1200 degrees F so it looked normal to me while on the dyno.

 

you can get a needle bleeder valve from vortech to bleed off a little fuel pressure. it is much cheaper than the cartech and S-AFC.



about your dyno...it seems a little bit low to me. your AFR from 5000 - 6000 is around 11:1 and I dont think there's any more room to tune that rpm range. Did you dyno the car with aftermarket rims?


what about ypipe and cat-back?

cat-back will give you a little bit more top end.

 

not from what I've seen. ebmorgan literally MELTED his knock sensor when he accidentally lost all his radiator fluid. he didn't notice this at the time and simply replinished the radiator fluid.

A few weeks later we Dynoed and his car would do fine to somewhere around 3000-3200 and then drop a good 40hp suddenly.

We replaced his KS, and dynoed again, and it did much better.

I don't think that's BlackCat's problem.

4th gear isn't that far from 3rd Gear as far as gear ratios go, however, so even if his OD was on, I wouldn't expect to see that kind of drop in numbers.

1200F is a little rich, actually - when my car is tuned to 12.5:1 perfectly, I do about 1350-1400F. That is the ideal EGT range. I think you're thinking Celcius, in which 800c is pretty up there.

the Dyno isn't just a little bit low - there is something MAJOR wrong there. That's a HUGE drop.

Possibly I suppose it could be backpressure related. With you having that A/F curve, you shouldn't have any problem with detonation at high RPM. After you verify it wasn't the Dyno's fault, you may want to inspect your exhaust and make sure your flex section on your Y-Pipe is good, and your Cat is not clogged.

IanS

 

I just slapped on the Budget Y-pipe back in Feb. I can't see the flex having problems so soon. Remember, I still have my stock 2.25" exhaust piping after the Y-pipe. I also ran on my 17x8 inch Momo rims.

 

LOL...trust me, it's not "backpressure"...

I would dyno again, make sure OD is off, build up speed to 65 MPH, and floor it (in third; OD off) when your car is past 65 MPH. Take it all the way to redline, and then let off...

 

So are you're saying that those dyno guys didn't know how to dyno an autotragic? Too bad I didn't post a "how-to dyno" question before I dynoed.

Unfortunately the "$30 for 2 pulls and the A/F ratio printout for an extra $10" deal was Saturday only. Now its back to the normal $75 for 3 pulls and an extra $25 for the A/F ratio printout.

 

you can disconnect the cat and just to inspect the flex section. new flex section should be a ring type while the older ones are the mesh type.

cat-back helps too. my car still puts down 267whp with y, cat-back and a lean 14:1 AFR. Compared to the 273 run I did with 10:1 AFR and no cat-back.

how heavy are your rims? I dynoed my car with stock 16".

 

Well, not backpressure per se from having stock exhaust - but clogged exhaust maybe.

So basically BlackCat, you Dynoed basically the same mods as I did when I first got my SC.

(in red is without MEVI and Stillen Exhaust, in blue is with - so look at red)

http://www.cyberhub.net/dyno/MEVICompare.jpg

Therefor, this is essentially what your curve should look like - or at least something close to it. In that dyno, I was running stock exhaust except the Y-pipe and 3.25" Pulley, just like you, and was Auto. no drop at 6000rpm like that.

Leaning towards the O/D thing again - that would definately skew numbers - maybe more than I first thought.

 

BlackCat - If you ever make it back down to Seattle, I can get you a deal where it's $40 for 2 pulls with the A/F.

So same price as above, all the time.

IanS

 

Yeah, I was reading the dyno thread over in NWMaxima. Hella way to go and get a dyno huh? lol!

Got word back from Jeff at Bishopsales.com that they do tuning as well selling Vortech stuff. Just waiting to hear back from them if they'll take me.

 

So Ian, you think I dynoed incorrectly?

Btw Congrats on your engagement!

 

You definately dynoed incorrectly!!! On an auto dyno they pull the car up to 3rd gear first ad then have u punch it! first of all and then u also have to make sur u have overdrive off.

 

Geez Louise! You'd think that the guys working the place should have known!

Thanks Redmax!

 

Most of them truly don't care...as long as they make their money.

 

Sorry! Thank you to everyone that's posted here!