Here is a diagram that lists the Z32 maf connector pins. I'll have to check which A32 maf wires are the 12V and 5V signals.

 

The 90-96 Z32 mafs will work. The TT used the same maf as the NA. $50 is a good price. I've seen them go for more than three times that much on ebay.

 

you could also get one from a infinity J30 of any year that used the VG30DE engine they are listed with the z32 MAFs at car-part search

on a side note where to get the MAF connector if its different than the max connector would the dealer beable to get it or is that somthing only the junkyard could get

 

I'd say junkyard or JWT has them...dealer is most likely gonna sell you the WHOLE engine harness. you could also probably repin the Maixma harness as well to fit the Z MAF plug confiiguration...not too hard

 

I need to go get one.

 

What kind of extraction tool would you use to get the contacts out of the maxima plug?

I have not yet figured out how to unlock the female pins in the plug

 

I have a Honda pin extraction tool, its kinda like 2 screwdrivers, one unlocks the pin while the other sorta pushes it out. dealer carries it, its like $5 or so. not sure if it would work with Nissan pins as well, but I've heard an eyeglass screw driver with a small enough flat head and some creativity can work too

 

Whatever...I just know it works pretty well (up to 10 PSi or so)...

 

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...ght=hacked+maf
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1

so whos gonna donate their Maxima to be the guinea pig???

 

haking the maf is very interesting it would be so easy to do on a max MAF to just put 370cc injectors in and play with different LARGER inner diameter tubes till you get the right A/F very simple especialy since there are a plethora of 3rd gens in the junk yard id just aquire a few MAFs and hack them all diferenct sizes and then go to the dyno and see which size gets the right A/F and then tune it with an AFC

NO need for the Z32 MAF and no need J$W$T$

i think were onto somthing here

 

AWESOME find Stephen. This could be a HUGE money saver over the JWT ECU route as long as the stock timing isn't too agressive, right? Even if it is, then the money could be put towards a J&S vs. a JWT ECU.

For those trying to avoid the JWT route, ie big $$$ and long wait, yet need >350whp, you could also split the airflow between TWO Z32 MAFs. I've read somewhere about Z32s using that setup.

 

thoughts from us over on the 3rd gen side -->

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=274232

 

Somewhat what I've read/thought, however with StephenMax's idea, you only hook one MAF to the ECU, so there is no need for a SAFC or "adding" the voltages. You really don't even need two Z32 MAFs, just one MAF and a PVC tube with the same ID and some creative plumbing.

 

yeah I see now! and I get what Mardi was saying about the dummy MAF...makes semi-perfect sense to me now

 

A bunch of the z32 guys have done this with outstanding results. Here is a link to the programer.



http://www.progshop.com/shop/program....shtml#picture

 

us Honda guys us it too.....thats what I have/use BEST programmer out there IMO!! super easy to use, well put together! but you all need to crack the Maxima ECU before you program anything

 

Hmm we may be on to something here.

 

Oh question: is this JWT ECU programmed with FI timing maps or stock timing maps, i.e. is the timing more retarded than the stock ECU.

I'm still new to the FI game and I'm trying to sort out what I do and don't need to have my car running safely and making some decent power.

 

From what I understand, you can read the eprom with this reader. So all you do to get a base, is get a JWT chip, or whatever brand, and read it. I dont quite understand everything on the ECU, so I wouldnt personally do it, but it has been done many times.

 

you wish it was that easy....this is what the eeprom(bin file) looks like(stock program for my B18/P75)when you "read" it, this is in Hexedit, not the Batronix program...from then you need a rom editor to further manipulate and lastly burn your new bin file



as far as Nissans go the Z32s are pretty sastisfied with this($800 though, but there is nothing better than being able to have standalone abilities through the OEM ECU)---> http://www.z1motorsports.com/Product.../zemulator.asp

 

it most likely retards progressively over the entire map by X degrees/per pound of boost(as boost rises)

 

Well...if you've got a binary dump of the chip, you really need to find (or write) a dis-assembler for the processor used in the ECU (does anyone know what that is?).

After that it should be pretty simple to figure out what's going on...

 

and if any of you are really serious about this this is good info...

http://www.autoserve.8m.com/Nissan.html (chipping Nissan ECUS)

http://www.pgmfi.org/phorum/ (dedicated to Honda hacking, but none the less informative for coding, creating actual rom editing program, etc.)

 

Wow~!

Thanks.

 

Hmmmnnnn....did some reading of the links on the hacked MAF. VERY very interesting.

I *THINK* the 5th gens. may luck out here pretty soon thanks to you guys. Our MAF sensor is removable from the inner tube, therefore NOT requiring any wire splicing or finding any compatible larger MAFs(VQ35?, VQ30DET, etc.). So, theoretically once someone installs BIGGER injectors(ala RC Engineering 350z upgrade), they could pull the sensor from the stock MAF and mount it into an "appropriate" sized PVC tube for the % increase of the injectors(370cc, 440cc, 550cc, etc.). This would trick the stock ECU into reducing the duty cycle of the injectors since the MAF sensor wouldn't be measuring as much air flow, which eliminates the need to lower base fuel pressure for startup/idle.

This is getting good.

 

BTW, I forgot to mention that the NA guys might be limited by the 43psi fuel pressure, however for the SC/TC guys, Mardi pointed out that the OEM FPR rises 1:1 therefore for 10psi you'd have 53psi pushing through them bigger injectors.

 

DAMN IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!




I need my car working and more money so I can try this on a dyno F*@#


Someone needs to step up and dyno tune this and see what they get

 

dam n man your car still isnt running?

 

exactly and you could do it on any gen max youd just have to hack the stock maf apart and glue it to a bigger pipe

 

Stephen,

Any more tests with the stock ECU?

 

I put the oem 5 speed ecu back in last night and have driven it around today. You definitely need to use an SAFC to lower the afr enough to keep it from pinging at greater than about 50% throttle. I'm not sure why that is, though, since the increase in injector size should be greater than the decrease in maf signal. But that's assuming a linear maf signal with air flow. It may very well be that the signal is nonlinear enough that the increase in injector size can't compensate for the decrease in maf signal. The evidence certainly points in that direction, at least for open loop operation. Or maybe it's a timing issue.

Anyway, I'm going to drive it around like this for a couple more days so that the ecu can learn the engine parameters. I need to get a wideband O2 sensor.

 

MAF signal isn't linear...I've read that between idle and non-idle(ie-cruising sort of) the signal is sporadic and is logorithmic rather than linear...at WOT the signal isn't linear either but MUCH LESS sporadic compared to cruising

I partially think its a timing issue. but I have a strange feeling with a little more tuning you could make a little more head way though

 

Sounds to me like if someone chooses this route they'll need the J&S, since it's winter and cool outside and you're pinging.

Are you pinging with the Toulene/Xylene?

 

The maf isn't linear but the problem is once you go to a bigger maf that in effect calibrates the ecu for the injectors. The ecu is seeing a certain maf volt and is using the NA timing advance curve. Since the base ignition timing isn't adjustable the car will detonate from running to much advance. So you have to get something to control the timing advance under boost. Now the ecu will correct for the injectors with a bigger maf but it won't be able to correct for the different timing advance needed to keep from detonating.

 

If your under 10 psi then it should not be the timing.

 

I was thinking the same sort of thing. Not the 10psi thing specifically because I don't know enough about how our cars react to boost yet, but just the simple fact that people run plenty of boost on stock timing/fuel maps with stock injectors and stock MAF and have no problems with detonation. This setup should be no different than stock injectors/stock MAF other than the fact it has greater power capacity because the MAF can flow more air and the injectors can flow more fuel, when required to. The ignition timing shouldn't be affected at all and shouldn't be causing detonation with this setup at moderate boost levels.

 

What is the stock A/F ratio at WOT in the upper rev range? You must be fairly close to that right? Possibly that is too lean with the added pressure in the chamber because of the SC and you need to run more rich than the N/A map defines. Be nice to know exactly what you are at.

 

From what I've read he is detonating in both closed-loop and open-loop operation.

 

I know a guy that has 10 Z32 MAF's for sale for 160 each shipped. His email is The_Boomb@hotmail.com if anybody is interested.

 

Tis true. Greater than about 50% throttle and with the engine warm it detonates, although there was less pinging at WOT (when the timing is retarded more). I should add that I was getting detonation problems back when I was running the oem ecu, 240 cc/min injectors, A32 maf and an 8:1 fmu after I installed a 3" pulley. Going to the JWT ecu solved that problem.

So, I believe it is a timing issue rather than afr, but I'm pretty much done testing. Based on what testing I have done, I can't recommend going this route (except maybe at lower boost levels) unless you incorporate some form of timing control, such as a J&S Safeguard.