Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.

SparkPlug ???

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Old Jan 6, 2004 | 10:55 PM
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Morfeus17's Avatar
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SparkPlug ???

Wish the search was working, but I remember reading on plug types with respect to Turbo-charging. Are the NGK Coppers (BKR6ES-11) ideal to use under boost? Or can one use the NGK Platniums PFR6G-11. Does it really matter??? I know the Platinums out-last the Coppers and they are way more expensive... But under boosted conditions, which would you choose??

I also remebered something about plug gapping... Something concerning for every 50hp the gapping size should be decreased... Not sure on the exact formula...

Right now I'm running 4psi... Would it be ideal to keep the standard .044 gap size??? The car has not been dynoed, so I may have to guestamte the gapping...


Finally, some of the guys I know with turbo-charged M3's are using non-resistance race plugs... Have you guys ever tried them... Not sure on the benefits using non-resistance plugs...
Old Jan 7, 2004 | 12:36 AM
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non resistance would mean the electricity flows through it better resulting in a more powerful spark. you want to get the most powerful spark you can so you can fully burn the fuel to get the most power out of your engine.

i would choose the coppers myself. i was reading somewhere that if you had coppers and your engine detonated badly there would be a high chance that the copper plugs would melt. by melting that would make your engine stop running and not detonate anymore. basically just keeping your engine more safe with the sacrifice of your plugs. if you are only running 4 psi i'd say you'd be safe for a while though.
Old Jan 7, 2004 | 05:34 AM
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I believe you reduce the gap by .02 for every 50hp you add.

I ran Coppers for over a year (changing them every 3k along with the oil because I'm **** and they are cheap) and they worked great.

BKR6E-11 is what I ran. Not sure why you have the "S" in there...I don't recall that being a part number. But then again - I never looked for it.
Old Jan 7, 2004 | 07:53 AM
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Yeah I made a typo... 3k miles on coppers?? I thought they last far more than that...

Originally Posted by iansw
I believe you reduce the gap by .02 for every 50hp you add.

I ran Coppers for over a year (changing them every 3k along with the oil because I'm **** and they are cheap) and they worked great.

BKR6E-11 is what I ran. Not sure why you have the "S" in there...I don't recall that being a part number. But then again - I never looked for it.
Old Jan 7, 2004 | 07:55 AM
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Thanks for the info.. I may try the coppers to see how they perform...

Originally Posted by mtcookson
non resistance would mean the electricity flows through it better resulting in a more powerful spark. you want to get the most powerful spark you can so you can fully burn the fuel to get the most power out of your engine.

i would choose the coppers myself. i was reading somewhere that if you had coppers and your engine detonated badly there would be a high chance that the copper plugs would melt. by melting that would make your engine stop running and not detonate anymore. basically just keeping your engine more safe with the sacrifice of your plugs. if you are only running 4 psi i'd say you'd be safe for a while though.
Old Jan 7, 2004 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mtcookson
non resistance would mean the electricity flows through it better resulting in a more powerful spark. you want to get the most powerful spark you can so you can fully burn the fuel to get the most power out of your engine.

i would choose the coppers myself. i was reading somewhere that if you had coppers and your engine detonated badly there would be a high chance that the copper plugs would melt. by melting that would make your engine stop running and not detonate anymore. basically just keeping your engine more safe with the sacrifice of your plugs. if you are only running 4 psi i'd say you'd be safe for a while though.
Along this line, if I recall correctly, Platinum plugs may promote pinging moreso than copper, due to the fact that platinum maintains a higher temperature in-between combustion cycles (thus possibly inducing pre-ignition if given the right conditions).
This information was suggested by threads in other boards with cars that used copper stock, and people were considering upgrading to platinums.
It seems the only benefit of platinum spark plugs is longevity, since they don't erode as quickly as copper, and can possibly stay cleaner (since the firing tips maintain a somewhat higher temperature).
I'm not sure how significant this is though, since it's obviously no problem in N/A applications, seeing as Nissan uses platinums from the factory... but under boost or nitrous I'd pick copper, if anything just because they're cheaper to replace if they are messed up.
Old Jan 7, 2004 | 08:19 AM
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I think when your boosted you areonly suppost to use coppers for 5,000 miles. They are like 2 buxs a piece and it always good to have a clean spark plug and lessen your chance of detonation. The only thing I hate about boosted car is mantience is 10 times more than a normal car.
Old Jan 7, 2004 | 08:41 AM
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http://www.fastmaxima.com/diagrams.htm#Plugs

there you go..all info about the spark plug numbers...
Old Jan 7, 2004 | 09:20 AM
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Like I said - I'm ****.

I also try and change my Mobil1 Synthetic oil every 3k as well, even though with Synthetic you don't really need to.

And since it takes me about 10 minutes to do all the plugs, I just do them everytime I do the oil change.

IanS
Old Jan 7, 2004 | 02:05 PM
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Thanks for that info... One thing though, I 've noticed the diagram for the FMU... I see it's running piggy back with the stock fpr.. But, with the SFMU the stock fpr can be removed?, right??

Originally Posted by MaXtUneD
http://www.fastmaxima.com/diagrams.htm#Plugs

there you go..all info about the spark plug numbers...
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