water injection, lowered compression, bore
#1
water injection, lowered compression, bore
Umm, I was just thinking to myself, how many more pounds of boost could you run with the water injection? I was thinking maybe 3-4. How many degrees lower would the intake temperaure be with the water injection? So I could safely run 12-15 lbs of boost with the water injection, would I need anything else as a safeguard running that kind of boost?
I am just waiting for Marti to see if the lower manifold bolts up to the 3.5 liter engine and if so I was wondering how much could I bore the engine out to increase displacement and how much would the displacement increase. If I got the compression down to 9:1 with custom pistons matched to the bigger bore. I wanna know how Nissan got a 4.0 liter VQ and if they increased the stroke, how high can the engine rev. How many more pounds of boost could I run safely with 1 point less of compression?
I am just waiting for Marti to see if the lower manifold bolts up to the 3.5 liter engine and if so I was wondering how much could I bore the engine out to increase displacement and how much would the displacement increase. If I got the compression down to 9:1 with custom pistons matched to the bigger bore. I wanna know how Nissan got a 4.0 liter VQ and if they increased the stroke, how high can the engine rev. How many more pounds of boost could I run safely with 1 point less of compression?
#3
Well just read an article about a bore/stroke punching out a VQ30 to 3.8L.
It can reduce charge temps 20-30 degrees. With tuning, gains of up to 50whp can be made. It depends on the setup and car though.
It's worth $400ish to NOT have to run $5/gallon 100+octane.
It can reduce charge temps 20-30 degrees. With tuning, gains of up to 50whp can be made. It depends on the setup and car though.
It's worth $400ish to NOT have to run $5/gallon 100+octane.
#4
[QUOTE=IceY2K1]
IIRC I've read 5psi more with water/ALCOHOL injection on a SR20.
[QUOTE]
I have been looking on aquamists site and others fo rthis info. If you find ANY site that shows how much more PSI can be run, please shoto me a PM or respond here. If I find one, I'll do the same.
I have looked at supraforums and louts forums, NADDA.
GOnna try rx7, 240, and mr2
Thanks icy
IIRC I've read 5psi more with water/ALCOHOL injection on a SR20.
[QUOTE]
I have been looking on aquamists site and others fo rthis info. If you find ANY site that shows how much more PSI can be run, please shoto me a PM or respond here. If I find one, I'll do the same.
I have looked at supraforums and louts forums, NADDA.
GOnna try rx7, 240, and mr2
Thanks icy
#5
I'm trying to find it online at www.turbomagazine.com, but my POS computer keeps crashing.
Anyways, Feb 2003 Turbo&High-Tech Performance "SE-R Project Phoenix Part 3". They had a JWT ECU program that activated the Aquamist WI at 8psi and switched to a leaner fuel map and more aggressive spark advance map. At 10psi, they had misfire problems due to the presence of water molecules and weak stock ignition not being able to keep up. They dropped the spark plug gap down 0.02 inches, which helped to 12psi, but more misfires. Then they upgraded the ignition and increased the boost to 17psi before DETONATION reared its ugly head at 304.4hp/290lb-ft. So they dumped in C16 race gas and hit 22psi and 379.7hp/352.7lb-ft. They then reduced boost to 14psi for daily driving. Right there is 3psi(17-14) MORE~!
All this was done on 91-craptane on a cool day. However, this was PURE water, so only in-cylinder cooling was being taken advantage of. Add in alcohol and you've got even MORE detonation prevention and my *THEORETICAL* 5+psi.
Anyways, Feb 2003 Turbo&High-Tech Performance "SE-R Project Phoenix Part 3". They had a JWT ECU program that activated the Aquamist WI at 8psi and switched to a leaner fuel map and more aggressive spark advance map. At 10psi, they had misfire problems due to the presence of water molecules and weak stock ignition not being able to keep up. They dropped the spark plug gap down 0.02 inches, which helped to 12psi, but more misfires. Then they upgraded the ignition and increased the boost to 17psi before DETONATION reared its ugly head at 304.4hp/290lb-ft. So they dumped in C16 race gas and hit 22psi and 379.7hp/352.7lb-ft. They then reduced boost to 14psi for daily driving. Right there is 3psi(17-14) MORE~!
All this was done on 91-craptane on a cool day. However, this was PURE water, so only in-cylinder cooling was being taken advantage of. Add in alcohol and you've got even MORE detonation prevention and my *THEORETICAL* 5+psi.
#6
Adding in methanol should raise the effective octane SEVERAL points allowing even more psi.
Another GOOD Aquamist article, October 2001 Sport Compact Car "Suck, Squish, Bang, Blow" tech analysis.
Cliff Notes:
1)Intake charge temp is reduced 20-30 degrees.
2)Water slightly retards the combustion in the cylinders, ie simulates retarding the timing.
3)Seen up to 40hp more on tubo street cars running pump gas with water injection.
4)Keeps temperatures down on prone to overheat turbo'd SR20s under road racing conditions.
5)Several turbo'd SR20s run MORE than 20psi with stock engines and cast pistons with the Aquamist system. A few even with more then 100K miles on them.
Another GOOD Aquamist article, October 2001 Sport Compact Car "Suck, Squish, Bang, Blow" tech analysis.
Cliff Notes:
1)Intake charge temp is reduced 20-30 degrees.
2)Water slightly retards the combustion in the cylinders, ie simulates retarding the timing.
3)Seen up to 40hp more on tubo street cars running pump gas with water injection.
4)Keeps temperatures down on prone to overheat turbo'd SR20s under road racing conditions.
5)Several turbo'd SR20s run MORE than 20psi with stock engines and cast pistons with the Aquamist system. A few even with more then 100K miles on them.
#7
SERIOUSLY, don't F-with MEVI, cylinder head porting, or extended rev-limiters.
SAVE YOUR MONEY AND BUY THE AQUAMIST 1S SYSTEM!!!!! Safer, more reliable, and CHEAPer.
Can't say it any other way...just buy it IMO.
STOCK VQ+JWT ECU+550cc injectors+J&S Safeguard+Aquamist 1S water/alcohol injection with proper fine tuning....
SAVE YOUR MONEY AND BUY THE AQUAMIST 1S SYSTEM!!!!! Safer, more reliable, and CHEAPer.
Can't say it any other way...just buy it IMO.
STOCK VQ+JWT ECU+550cc injectors+J&S Safeguard+Aquamist 1S water/alcohol injection with proper fine tuning....
#8
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
SERIOUSLY, don't F-with MEVI, cylinder head porting, or extended rev-limiters.
SAVE YOUR MONEY AND BUY THE AQUAMIST 1S SYSTEM!!!!! Safer, more reliable, and CHEAPer.
Can't say it any other way...just buy it IMO.
STOCK VQ+JWT ECU+550cc injectors+J&S Safeguard+Aquamist 1S water/alcohol injection with proper fine tuning....
SAVE YOUR MONEY AND BUY THE AQUAMIST 1S SYSTEM!!!!! Safer, more reliable, and CHEAPer.
Can't say it any other way...just buy it IMO.
STOCK VQ+JWT ECU+550cc injectors+J&S Safeguard+Aquamist 1S water/alcohol injection with proper fine tuning....
It sounds like a good setup to me.
You could also use a NX wet kit with larger fuel jets as well (say run a 35 shot with 50 shot fuel jet).
I wonder if you could run both, or if running both would be just too much **** running through the intake side of the engine...
#9
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Well just read an article about a bore/stroke punching out a VQ30 to 3.8L.
It can reduce charge temps 20-30 degrees. With tuning, gains of up to 50whp can be made. It depends on the setup and car though.
It's worth $400ish to NOT have to run $5/gallon 100+octane.
It can reduce charge temps 20-30 degrees. With tuning, gains of up to 50whp can be made. It depends on the setup and car though.
It's worth $400ish to NOT have to run $5/gallon 100+octane.
#10
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
SERIOUSLY, don't F-with MEVI, cylinder head porting, or extended rev-limiters.
SAVE YOUR MONEY AND BUY THE AQUAMIST 1S SYSTEM!!!!! Safer, more reliable, and CHEAPer.
Can't say it any other way...just buy it IMO.
STOCK VQ+JWT ECU+550cc injectors+J&S Safeguard+Aquamist 1S water/alcohol injection with proper fine tuning....
SAVE YOUR MONEY AND BUY THE AQUAMIST 1S SYSTEM!!!!! Safer, more reliable, and CHEAPer.
Can't say it any other way...just buy it IMO.
STOCK VQ+JWT ECU+550cc injectors+J&S Safeguard+Aquamist 1S water/alcohol injection with proper fine tuning....
#11
Originally Posted by spanishrice
How much horsepower could I expect with that seup, and what boost could I run with that setup. No more than 15 lbs right?
i really wonder at what psi the stock rods are going to go byby but i bet 15psi will be getting pretty close
#15
My magazine collection, however they usually upload them to their internet site. I haven't been able to find them though.
Originally Posted by spanishrice
Where did you read the article, internet? magazine? Could you hook me up.
#16
400+whp is all I know, since Mardi has pretty close to that setup and is putting it down on the dyno and track.
I have NO idea what the stock rods can take. So far, we know between 400-500whp for *LIMITED* amounts of time.
The VQ strength above 400whp is still uncharted territory.
I have NO idea what the stock rods can take. So far, we know between 400-500whp for *LIMITED* amounts of time.
The VQ strength above 400whp is still uncharted territory.
Originally Posted by spanishrice
How much horsepower could I expect with that seup, and what boost could I run with that setup. No more than 15 lbs right?
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