Was racing bags533 on the way home and we took off in 2nd and I shifted into 3rd, and misshifted into 2nd and the tach went to the floor. Emanage tells me I did 8910 rpm on the peak.

Now the bad news, the car doesnt idle too well. It shakes pretty vigourously while in my garage. When I rev it it feels fine but when it gets to idle it shakes. The vacuum is fine. No codes besides my missing tranny code.

Now when I came to a light I couldnt even get it into gear, i had to jam it into gear. Got a feeling maybe the engine is vibrating like crap cause of some in the clutch/plate combo has issues and threw it off balance.

So just did a compression test and everything there is perfect. Every cylinder coming in at 190-195 (mainly due to carbon buildup from running rich when a charge pipe blew off) Next is to probably drop the tranny to see if there is something wrong with the clutch setup. If not I was going to figure out a way to rig the starter to the block so I can start it with no tranny and see if the car runs fine.

Dixit

 

I hope it's nothin too serious.

 

I don't have my tranny jack to offer... bijan does

Let me know if I can help.

 

i have done the same thing twice on my old motor and saw the tach peg 8k but it could of been higher but the car still ran fine after both those so i think youll be alright

on a side note i know a guy with a rsx-s who blew his motor doing that mainly because he shifted at 8k so his motor proboly saw 12 or 13k

 

Yea same thing here, the tach was pegged at 8k, but the eManage caught the reading at 8910 as you can see.

My confidence is going up in that the engine is fine since the compression is fine and I dont hear any clanking or anything like a spun bearing.

Going to drop the tranny tomorrow.

Dixit

 

dang...i didn't think it was possible to over rev the engine like that. Why wouldn't it hit the rev limiter?

I'm autotragically challenged, so sorry for such a newbie question...but i just don't see how the ecu would let it over rev like that.

 

holy heck dixit!

 

yeah, i'm rollin to his place tomorrow to drop it to him.

 

he was already going over 90mph. momentum had the final say over the ecu.


Dixit,
A buddy of mine floated his valves doing the same thing on a 4th gen ... but since the comp. is good I agree you are in the clear there.

Long shot - but did you look to see if any of your motor mounts are ripped?

D

 

glad to hear the motor is okay.

on a side note, what does a spun bearing sound like?

 

Well definetely cant be motor mount cause they are filled with uerathane.

A spun bearing has a ticking clanking noise. And I dont hear any of that while the car is on, or even while it was being cranked while I was doing the compression test.

Im just trying to pucture at the moment how the clutch goes F'ed up.

Dixit

 

motor mount was my first thought too. its easier to check those 1st b4 you drop the tranny

 

pretty sure on a mis-shift(3-2 or 5-2, etc.) the rev limiter won't protect you...oddly enough its only there to keep you from over-revving out a gear(ie- if you just keep your foot planted and don't shift to the next gear)

like Subs said with the RSX, many of GSR guys on Honda tech are always doing this...but usually the result is valves floating to their grave!

 

Great! I leave you guys play.

Dix that happened to me before. I damaged my synchros and one thing lead to another.

 

good luck bro

 

Im dropping the tranny tonight hopefully. Check the pressure plate and stuff out, got a feeling something up there because I cant get it into gear when its sitting there. Then open the tranny and see what else I f'ed up.

Dixit

 

are you thinking of swaintechin that piece?

 

Swaintech what piece?

 

Who was winning?!?!?

I have a feeling you'd better speed up that engine build up. Others including SR who have done that were "fine" for awhile, then snap, boom, clunk..clunk...clunk. That tensile stress is SOOOooo extreme it had to damage/weaken something. However, VQ35s piston speed is considerably faster, so your VQ30 is probably somewhat more tolerant.

If I were you, I would baby that **** like an old grandma driver until you line up another engine. It could be a ticking time bomb just waiting to let go once you stress it again.

It's amazing that the VQ can take something like that without grenading, but honestly it can't handle that without weakening something.

 

Yea understandable, but Ive decided to get out of the "game" and dont want to do the engine buildup anymore.

I dont normally race the car anyways at the track and barely when Im driving it daily. Just once in awhile I open it up, but Im always doing that on the highway.

Well me and Kirk were neck and neck, but he was pushing 10lbs somehow ad I was doing ~7psi.

Dixit

 

I know, you told me, so are you going to bolt your spare VQ30 back together incase?

 

Hey sorry to hear the bad news :-/ i hope all works out ...

btw nice max BigDog

 

Alex, Actually if the engine is fine (which I find out in a few hours when I tear the tranny off) Im going to leave the engine as is.

The spare one me and "someone" else have plans for testing it in their car. Since I dont want to do it, he offered. So Im going to build it up, test it and pull it back out the car, and if results are good, sell the sucker.

Dixit

 

i was talking about the gear in the tranny. but good luck, keep us posted

 

Dont have any plans on cryo'ing the gears.
I took the tranny off last night and dont see any signs of issues on the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel.

So now its looking bad in that something on the crank or a bearing has been fried because the vibration is coming from somewhere. I would REALLY like to start the engine without the tranny in there just to see if it is still vibrating to make sure before i go ahead and pull this F'ing engine out.

I dont see an easy or safe way to rig the starter up there. Only way I know possible is to take an old tranny, cut that portion of the bellhousing off and then bolt that cut port on, then bolt the starter back onto it.

Dixit

 

Dont have any plans on cryo'ing the gears.
I took the tranny off last night and dont see any signs of issues on the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel.

So now its looking bad in that something on the crank or a bearing has been fried because the vibration is coming from somewhere. I would REALLY like to start the engine without the tranny in there just to see if it is still vibrating to make sure before i go ahead and pull this F'ing engine out.

I dont see an easy or safe way to rig the starter up there. Only way I know possible is to take an old tranny, cut that portion of the bellhousing off and then bolt that cut port on, then bolt the starter back onto it.

Dixit

 

Sorry to hear that Dixit.

Hopefully, it's not that bad.

 

Well now decisions got to be made, either strip the car, and dump it, or fix it and keep trucking.

Im leaning more towards dumping it because I want out of it since Its time for a new one.

Dixit

 

You are SOOOOOOooo close though~!

Man, I know you've been through all hell and back a few times, but damn man.

IMO...buy the CLEANEST $400-$600 VQ30 you can find and just swap. You're back in business for what a weekend or week of labor? You and the FI crew down there could knock that **** out fast, right?

You've already got the tranny apart, so pull that ***** and put in another factory bolted together VQ30. IMO...once you take them apart, they're never the same, so personally I'd part out/sell your current spare and find the cleanest junkyard low mileage engine you can find.

 

Jesus all this drama going on out there. He doesnt have the engine hoist. Is back at my house. Dix if you need the hoist just let my brothers/mom know you need it back in your house. Do you? take it, that just does me a favor and helps you out if you do pull out the engine. Geez this situation sucks the big one.

 

Oh and BTW, if you do part out, I got dibs on everything..at least the eManage, e01, J&S.

 

Shiet, we talking about another engine then. I was planning on either rebuilding back the current one and putting that sucker back in. I cant really find a good VQ30dek for 400-600 shipped. That is pushing it.

Why you think putting back the current one is not a good idea? I mean its no different than me building that up and sealing it back. I mean the only thing you have to watch out for is the sealant on the timing covers, upper oil pan. Everything else is mechnical and fits like a glove.

Dixit

 

You were bad mouthing the Emanage a few threads back about how the split second box is better. Now you want the eManage

 

No...no...no.

Not "bad mouthing" anything. Just trying to figure out each units strengths/weaknesses. I wish it was clear cut and dry, but honestly they're both so close I can't decide. So, whichever is cheapest will be the one I go with unless something superior comes out.

As for bolting back together the engine or buying another, it's your call. Personally, I wouldn't trust MYSELF over the factory and factory specs. All it takes is ONE misassumption or error and you're back to pulling it AGAIN. I guess it depends on how well you can put it back together and whether you fear another engine drop/swap. I'll see what VQ30s I can find on the net to see what's available for what prices.

 

dibs on turbo Sorry to hear it Dixit...
... it's been a while man... how is everything else going for you?

 

Damn Nauman, you been MIA for months, I sent you an email/pm like months ago asking how you been.

After looking at figures and such, doesnt seem worth my time to part it out and all and try to get into another car. Will have to put another engine in there regardless. I would like to drop some 8:5.1 CR pistons in there and see how that runs, but I dont want to drop more cash into it.

Just need to plan out this swap now, I know I can get the engine out in about 2-3hrs now. Looking for another engine.

Dixit

 

Think about paying 600 bucks for a low milage very clean engine or put that monry towards pistons and a clean up on the block. I don't know what a piston set goes for but you should be in just about the same ballpark in the money dept., no? I believe a custom set is around 500-600, 100 on having a shop make sure the block is good(optional), button it back together with some good bearings and you've got a motor for boost for around the same flow. Plus you have the insurance and peace of mind that you basically have a new engine.

 

have U done a leak down test ? this will quickly determine if U got a bent valve or what. My ex-friend over reved my VQ by going into 2nd instead of 4th on the highway at redline about 2 years ago. I saw the tach swing way down... no problems as far as I know. I seen timing chains getting thrown off by over reving on a few KA24DEs and the compression stays close to stock, yet they run like crap and tend to missfire at idle.

 

Well a leakdown is harder to do for most normal people. Normally a compression test is good enough for this situation.

Leakdown normally helps to find other things like compression ring weakness, valves not fully closing.

Id do it, but dont think a bent valve would cause the vibration.

Dixit

 

Dixit,

If the compression test is okay, I'd forgo the leakdown, but if any are 15% or more different from each other IIRC, definitely get one.

I definitely think BlackBird could be onto something with the timing chain jumping a tooth or two. Might be worth checking out~!