iansw

iTrader: (7)

After all this preparing for the track the last few weeks, I drove 300 miles to Oregon to tear the track up and get some good times.

Well - my time was 20.28 seconds.

Yep - first run - Slicks grabbed hard and the clutch didn't.
1st, then 2nd, then 3rd gear. I admit I was a little excited and overlaunched a little, but not insanely or anything. I did another run and babied it (started like I was at a stoplight driving normal then didn't give it hard gas until well into 2nd) and I still slipped the rest of 2nd and beginning of 3rd let go of the gas, waited a full second, re-engaged and completed the run. I ran a 14.1 that time. I should be low 13's I think. Man it stunk like mad. A friend said he saw on the first run smoke coming out from my tranny....not good.

Until this, I've never noticed the clutch slip at all, and it's always been very grippy.

Clutch is completely toast now. I barely made it home by putting it in 5th gear and setting it on cruise control the whole way. When I finally got off the freeway and hit a stoplight, the car barely moved.....I parked it in a friend's garage for me to replace next weekend if I can pick and buy a new clutch fast enough.....thank god I can walk to work.

This clutch was well installed and only had 8k on it. It is an ACT Stage 1 "Street Clutch". It had never slipped before.

What else is out there that can handle the high torque that the track loads onto the system under slicks? I've heard somewhere the 4 and 6 puck ACT's are prone to problems and the daily drivability is crap.

I was VERY upset I had to sideline the rest of the day and watch all the guys from NWMaxima.com race while I just sat there. But eventually I cooled down and had a good time with everyone just checking out the cars there and talking to some of the more experienced tuners. (This one guy had been dragging since 1967!)

But oh well - you live and learn. The ACT Street Clutch can't take the torque created when running with slicks.

I try to look at the bright side and say to myself "I have such power now that I eat clutches on 1 run that are rated for 362tq".....cool....sort of...

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Just was doing some research and noticed that the pressure plate is exactly the same according to an index of Maxima Applications I found. Only the disc is different.

Does that mean, assuming I go with an ACT 4 or 6 puck, that I only need a new disc?

http://www.coximport.com/act/nissan.html#Maxima

iansw

iTrader: (7)

After doing some reading, the Six puck sprung hub from clutchnet looks pretty good.

For those of you that have it (turbo97se, Mardi) - what pressure plate did you use? Did you use the clutchnet normal one or the Laser Cut one?

Or did you use your old pressure plate? Is that possible?

If I could re-use my ACT plate with only 8k on it, I might want to do that. But if it's a bad idea, then I won't.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

bump bump bump....

subs1000w

im running a clutchnet 8puck sprung hub disc with an act pp and it works great for the last 10k

unfortuanitly your current act pp is proboly toast after you slipped the hell out of it so your proboly better off going full clutchnet $$$

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Why would the PP be toast? I'm 99% sure that since it still engages fine (albeit very gently with no grip) that the PP is probably fine and I just burned through the disc.

matty

iTrader: (54)

You burnt threw a Clutch in 8 months....Im afraid to boost now

-matt

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Actually, I'm pretty sure the clutch was in great condition before Saturday.

So actually, I burnt through a clutch in 5 seconds.

Requin6

iTrader: (36)

i will be following this one...

some may know that i had a little mishap at the track. i think the exedy clutch that i just installed went up in pieces. i will know after today hopefully when i take it all apart.

--Paul

meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

haha, matt, ian is taking his car to its limits running slicks with like every special thing u can get for a supercharged max besides intercooler. For daily driving u wont or shouldnt go through these issues.

dam ian, sorry bout all this. You drove back 300 miles?! dam seatle is spaced out.

free bump

subs1000w

theres a good posibility that you got the pressure plate so hot from the excesive slippage that it has hot spots on it now and will not properly grip the disc but youll have to pull it and see they will look like burn marks

also my friend let his clutch in his talon slip for so long the rivits that hold the friction material to the disc accualy wore a grove in the pressure plate but you probobly have not wore it down that far yet

there is a posibility that the pp is still good but theres also chance that its not. good luck

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Well, there is a track about 35 miles away, but they cater almost exclusively to domestics. They usually let th domestics run 10x a day and any Imports (unless they're a Supra or Skyline) get to run maybe 1-2x in 8 hours. They even seperate the lanes out so lanes 1-4 are domestics and 5,6 are Import then let the domestics run for 1 hour, the Imports for 15 minutes, then the domestics for 1 hour again.

So Maximan from NWMaxima.com hooked up an event at Woodburn Oregon where they actually gave us our own lanes and let people run 15-20x in the day.

I only got 2 runs in however.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

I just called and bought the Clutchnet Sprung 6-puck and Pressure Plate.

$395 - not too bad a price for a clutch that is still somewhat drivable for daily use (because it's sprung) and can tear up the track without blowing the clutch.




http://www.clutchnet.com/make/prodDesc.html
(disc is at vey bottom)

This is the setup Mardi, Mathell, and Turbo97SE use.

sleepermaxima

iTrader: (2)

Iansw,
Did you get to choose the clamping force increase? Or was there just one for your application?

Mardi, Mathell, and Turbo97SE,
In your opinion, is this a streetable clutch?


I melted mine on Friday again Third or fourth time since I've had it installed 2 years ago. Why I'm still able to drive it, I don't know.

Gonna dawn the slicks in 2 weeks. Would like to have a clutch kit and flywheel waiting in my garage by the time I return from it

D

iansw

iTrader: (7)

There is a thread from sometime back where Mardi was talking about how since it's a sprung clutch, the streetability, while it takes some getting used to, is far better than the ACT 4 or 6-puck.

The regular pressure plate is designed to slip a little on engagement, hopefully saving your disc and your tranny when you drop it.

So I went with the regular PP.

crewchief264

I'm not understanding why you guys are blowing clutches?

I have been beating the crap out my ACT stage 2 and haven't had any problems. I can see how slicks would put more stress on it, is that all it is?
You guys are lsd right? I'm quiafe, you???

iansw

iTrader: (7)

No LSD, and yes, slicks.

I've beaten it sometimes pretty good and never had a problem until I was on track pavement with slicks.

I plan on doing many runs with slicks, so i've got to get a 100% dependable clutch, or as close to 100% as possible.

So clutchnet it is.

IanS

subs1000w

good chioce and yes this clutch is very streetable

ive been starting out in second gear every time for the last 3 weeks since my first gear is no longer (dam drag radials) and the clutch slips fine

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Removed old clutch tonight - nw one going in tomorrow......


First - we removed the CPS - this stuff was on it:


Mmmmmm! Black disc material! Smells nice!


Then - we got the tranny off - this is [evil voice]The Horror Within![/evil voice]
More of the black asbestos looking stuff EVERYWHERE!



Close up of the Pressure Plate:

iansw

iTrader: (7)

And finally - the disc! It's GONE!



Other side:

iansw

iTrader: (7)

This badboy goes in tomorrow after we get the flywheel resurfaced and prepped:

MardiGrasMax

iTrader: (14)

Streetable... Thats kinda vauge... mine groans when you start moving and chatters a bit. I have their older OEM style PP, I might thry the laser if mine goes, but its still holding like a champ. It has never slipped due to being hot. It has slipped when cold in the burn out box for the first run of a track day, after it warmed up it holds like a champ. Back to back to back runs etc are no problem, it will hold. Tha chatter makes it some what of a pain. If you commute in allot of stop and go traffic you will hate it, if not its ok for street use. Go real easy on the break in. Get your fly wheel resurfaced, use a new PP.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Flywheel is getting resurfaced this morning, and I bought the Clutchnet PP.

I walk to work, and only drive on the weekends. Granted it's in hilly Seattle, but I guess I'll just live with it. I drive my car about 3-4k a year.....so no biggie.



I meant for the term streetable to be vague so that people would put down their own opinions and input.....

Thanks.

jdmmax

iTrader: (6)

i am useing the clutch net disk with the excedy pp.

im getting the same symptoms mardi has said. slight groaning off the red light and it does chatter. but all in all im happy with it. i was getting a little worried about it but i ended up not caring after a while.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

New clutch installed....

Some interesting things:

I took the flywheel to a guy named Dave at a place called Aurora Transmissions this morning to have it resurfaced. He came in on Saturday JUST because I asked nicely. VERY cool guy - he's been dragging since like 1970 and certainly knows alot more than I do. He also didn't charge me tax and did it under the table for $30.00.

He resurfaced my flywheel, and when I came to pick it up gave me a breakdown. He said the flywheel was "bowled", meaning the more you went towards center, the more it was warped, thereby causing a bowl shape. He said this is caused almost always by a Pressure Plate that is far too stiff and is forcing the clutch too hard into the flywheel, causing premature wear.

He told me to go with a less agressive Pressure Plate (which the clutchnet is).

Interestingly, he also told me not to sandpaper the flywheel. Basically with a 6-button clutch, he said it's not necessary.

Results:

First we cracked the tranny open, re-sealed it with "Right Stuff" gasket seal, then put it back together. I took a good look in there while I was at it and the tranny is still pristine inside....no shavings, no cracks, looks great!....hopefully that will permanantly fix the very slight leak I've had there for about a year now.

Installed the flywheel and clutch and put the tranny back on all in under an hour of total work. taking time to check and re-check the torque on everything. The tranny actually went on relatively easily. Put axles back in, starter, trim panels, SC piping, harnesses, etc and took her for a spin.

First thing we noticed was that the clutch is VERY soft compared to the ACT Pressure Plate. It is going to take some getting used to. It basically feels stock.

Secondly, the clutch is off one second, and the ON. THere is no real spot where you are 1/2 engaged to make a slow smooth start. Makes it somewhat hard to drive - but I'll get used to it....as it breaks in I imagine the freeplay will get better.

It grabs VERY hard. I was throwing Sarin around the passenger seat a bit trying to get used to it.

The best part - almost 0 chatter!


The only downside is now my camber is WAY off from the Camber Adjustment bolts being moved, and my steering is now very soft because of it. Turning to the right takes about 1.5x further on the steering wheel then left. This felt odd to me, so I checked the torque on the hub bolt and on the steering arm again just to be sure. Looks like it's just about surface contact with the road causing the steering issue....anyone know anything else I should check in that department? I'll be getting it aligned ASAP of course.

So I get to drive like a grandma for 1000 miles then I'll be back at the track on slicks again.

IanS

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Yup, I would say the clutch pedal is about comparible to my clutch which is oem. However, it grabs quick. Even for the time I've driven a stick, I had a hard time with this and giving Ian whiplash too! Either way, can't wait till this sucker is broken in.

S

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Drove around this morning and throughout the day of driving VERY gingerly, the engagagement on the pedal moved from nearly all the way in to near when the pedal is nearly all the way out.

This normal?

Man that thing grabs hard - getting going from a dead stop slowly is kind of a pain.

But still - no chatter, no groaning.

Only 967 more miles to go.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

Good deal..

Glad you got it solved. Clutch break in sucks. I drove around downtown atlanta JUST to break in the clutch

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, it does suck.

Still a little ocncerned that the height of the pedal at which it engages is so high however.

What height do all of your clutches engage at?

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

IIRC, the clutch pedal can be adjusted...I just gotta remember how to do it...so if needed we might be able give you a little more freeplay if needed.

S

Julio

[QUOTE=MardiGrasMax]Streetable... Thats kinda vauge... mine groans when you start moving and chatters a bit. I have their older OEM style PP, I might thry the laser if mine goes, but its still holding like a champ.

Wow, I wouldnt have thought that the non-laser cut diaphram would hold all the power that you throw at it. You are running a 60-1, correct? Do you think you are gonna switch from that .81 a/r to a .58 maybe?

Bags

iTrader: (3)

About 1/2 inch off the floor.

You can adjust it.

If you look on the actuator arm of the clutch pedal, you'll see there is a nut with a screw going through it. That will move the clutch pedal. It's rigging it

subs1000w

about a .5 inch off the floor are you kidding me thats imposible

or maybe you mean half way between the floor and all the way out thats where mines at

Bags

iTrader: (3)

Really ????

It's less than an inch.

Jay25's 2nd max is LOWER than mine.




edit.. BTW look under your dash... does your clutch pedal hit the bump stop? mine does not

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Looking at the FSM, you can adjust the height of the pedal itself, but you cannot adjust the point at which it engages?

Is this true? Am I reading the diagrams right?

I'm worried that the clutch is so close to the top when engaging that I may be partially engaged while driving. (Although the car is definately not trying to move - so it can't be that much engaged).

I also am smelling clutch after driving a while. This normal after exploding a clutch in your tranny? We took the tranny to a self car wash and sprayed and scrubbed it as best we could. Maybe it's just from the engine side of the casing.

It's a very faint smell (I only smell it if I sniff under the wheel wells) - nothing like when it actually blew.

Or is my new clutch supposed to make a smell when first breaking in?

IanS

Bags

iTrader: (3)

I don't see how moving the pedal WON'T change the engagment. If you move the pedal, the "throw" of the arm to the master cylinder will change. ( either shorter or longer )

I have not looked at the FSM to verify this. Just thinking about it.

matty

iTrader: (54)

There are two adjustments...Pedal Height and Pedal Freeplay....Free play is how far you can push teh clutch in before you feel resistance, all up to you, and the Pedal Height is all up to you as well

Grab Point is all up to the clutch !!! When Clutchs get old I know they tend to grab a tad bit higher than when they were new...

-matt

iansw

iTrader: (7)

I thought so.

The 6-puck disc is considerably thinner than the ACT was. Maybe that's the problem.

Can someone with a clutchnet out there answer this question? What point does your clutch engage at?

Now I'm really starting to get worried! I'm sweating that maybe somehow I installed the clutch wrong.

You probably can't tell how good an install is from a pic - but here it is.


We went with torque specs straight out of the FSM on both the flywheel and the clutch using a brand new torque wrench.

matty

iTrader: (54)

ian, where is your clutch engaging ??

-matt

iansw

iTrader: (7)

About 1.5" from the end of the travel it begins to grab....before that (from floor to that point) it doesn't grab at all.

But once it does grab at 1.5" from the top of the travel, it definatley grabs pretty hard. Can't feel any slipping.

But then again, I'm not aobut to put any major force on it until it's broken in.

when we first installed it 2 days ago, it grabbed aobut 3" off the floor.

Could this just be the hydraulic system adjusting maybe?