I don't know what else it can be, other than intake manifold design - butterfly valves.

The hotwires are surviving , I need to find a way to drop one in an aluminum pipe. Has anyone done this?

That, or I'm thinking about just selling the MEVI

 

if u need a MAF, i have one for sale

 

jesus christ man. You you can take the little metal thing from the MAF. Go to freshalloy.com and and search for it. I think a couple of people have done it on there.

 

i cut the pipe off around the sensor, drilled a hole in some metal piping and just jb welded, siliconed, and screwed the maf onto the pipe. worked pretty well and i'm sure i could make it look better with some more time spent on it.

 

[QUOTE=hlh0501
I don't know what else it can be, other than intake manifold design - butterfly valves.

The hotwires are surviving , I need to find a way to drop one in an aluminum pipe. Has anyone done this?

That, or I'm thinking about just selling the MEVI[/QUOTE]

Backfiring because of nitrous, like the first time?

 

Yes.. nitrous, meth, I'd assume anything flowing to it.

Direct port would fix the nitrous problem I guess... but
A. I don't feel like drilling my MEVI out
B. I'm not buying it right now bc I'm mad about all the money I have spent (and continue to spend) in the past month haha

 

Dam! Thats not cool

 

ok, I'm an idiot.. I see the blown apart maf, but you think backfires are causing this?

How?

 

Yes I feel pretty certain. Reason being, when it blows the maf, it puts on quite the show (see:flame/explosion). This leads me to believe it's backfiring through the intake tract and the MAF, being plastic, is first to go (and not always the only thing to go)

Logs show a good tune imo, around 11.0af (while spraying) and timing is being retarded. With boost set at 16-17psi, it gives me no trouble.

 

if your boost is that high, did you have to upgrade your internals?

 

Ok, thanks.

Now, what if you put your MAF on the NON charged side?

I assume the reason your turbo is not ruined is the BOV... or am I way off base?

 

so does the sensor pop off and go into the engine or do you have some of that honeycomb like screen on there catching it?

 

I had a friend with a prelude that had a similar problem....when he was spraying he would backfire thru the intake tube. WHen it happened flames shot thru the hood, his air filter exploded and he blew the pcv valve off the top of the motor. We never figured out exactly what it was (he sold the car) But when I ran a smaller shot he did not backfire. Possibly the n20/gas (I am guessing you are running a wet shot) is puddling in the intake?

 

Stock internals.

Bags: if I put it on the non-charged side, the explosion would just find the next weakest link (alum. IC pipes, intake manifold, etc). As far as turbo damage, yeah I hope the BOV saved me? I put an extra MAF on the car and drove home thinking I had engine problems so I wasn't monkeying... turned out to be a vacuum leak the size of NY's subway tunnel. Now the car is back to perfect - whew.

Slimer: it is backfiring - pressure is going backwards, so nothing would get sucked in... also, as mentioned , the hotwire and assembly is fine. It's the shell of MAF that is getting destroyed bc of the pressure wanting to get out

Cardana: been there, see my post from a year ago when I blew the hood off the car and shattered my old MEVI. I'm only on 35 jets right now , and yes it's wet. Did he have a dualrunner IM w/ valves?

 

I thought nitrous and methanol was a no no.

 

Nope, they work well together - and actually picks up more power than expected. Meth works as an excellent anti-detonation device (along with cooling charge temps), this allows a good amount of timing to be added back

 

Just curios...where is the nitrous port right now?

 

hehheh... meth. kansas is the state that produces the most meth (the drug) in the u.s.... that's something to brag about isn't it?

 

~6inches before the TB

 

You think it would make a difference on where the port is? Whether it be direct port on the runners on the manifold , or in the TB?

 

As mentioned, I think direct port would solve the problem - by moving the foggers after the MEVI butterfly valves. This would prohibit puddling which I assume is the source of all my evil.

 

Actually, he's correct. Meth slows the combustion reaction, but N20 speeds it up. They counter-act each other.

Looking at my VIAS, which is basically the same as your MEVI, I'd suspect it. The secondary plenum which is open to all cylinder once switchover occurs, could allow puddling of fuel, which then somehow finds a spark or ignition heat from one of the other cylinders. In other words, when the MEVI secondary chamber is open, all six cylinders are feeding off that SINGLE chamber, so any excess fuel puddling *MIGHT* find an ignition source.

 

If you are having such problems with wet kit. Why not go to a dry setup?

 

Dry would be the same or worse from my little knowledge of it - and cause more difficulty installing on a turbo car.

Direct port or different intake manifold are the options I'm seeing... and I'm leaning away from DP

 

Because he REFUSES to upgrade the stock punny 240cc injectors.

 

I guess DPI is the cheapest way to go. Custom manifold will cost a lot but has more potential.

 

hehe , I finally upgraded when I put my new turbo on. I'll comment more on that later
stock injectors

I can't wait, I get to remove my FMU and retune this weekend. My FMU was going crazy, you can only imagine how fun that was trying to tune the idle AF.


Sonic, I'm looking at custom -
the MEVI's sale would help fund some of it (less than half, but still haha)

Who knows, I'm sick about it all. I'll probably use USIM for a bit until I get it straightened out.

 

lets wait for tilley to build his sheet metal intake manifold.

 

You got any new pics?

 

If you don't want to DP your MEVI, a machinist could easily make something similar to these for a resonable cost. The first link would cost alittle more to produce, but maybe worth the additional funds if hood clearence isn't an issue with the taller MEVI set up.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33740
This one might be the better way to go, minus the spray bar. I would tap mine for a nozzle. But a spacer like this would be simple to fabricate, it just needs to be thick enough so nothing interferes with the butterfly. You could make it out of aluminum or some kind of high density plastic that might even help decrease tempatures alittle.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33740
I'm pretty sure it would cure your N20 backfiring issues. I've seen a few MAF's come apart like that before, but usually when something like that happens the butterfly generally gets bent. It's not the most intelligent thing in the world to run a wet N20 system on a dry manifold design even though it has been many time successfully. With most of the wet N20 systems I've seen installed on a dry manifold intake that are not direct port, usually have the nozzle mounted after the throttle body instead of before. Just picture how much of an atomiaed mixed is just resting inside the intake when the butterfly closes. Thats pretty dangerous! It's a whole lot safer to contain any atomized N20/fuel mixture inside the manifold where it's harder to blow anything into smitherines. Good luck getting the problem cured.

 

Is it possible to maybe cut the MEVI in half and just make it a single, non variable intake manifold?

 

But then what would the point of even having a MEVI be.

 

shortened intake runners?

 

Why **** the MEVI up maybe try that on the USDM manifold.

 

or even a de-k manifold

 

Isn't that what SR2ODEN is doing with the 2k2 manifolds? Someone asked him if after he does his thing with the manifold, if it's still variable and he said no.

 

I thought he was taking something outta the manifold. You lose low end torque but gain high end power.

 

take the butterfly valves off the actuaitor in the MEVI?

 

putting the hotwire fromt he maf into a metal pipe will work just fine. alot of my fellow 240 guys do that with a larger pipe to compensate for larger injectors, hacked mafs. just use a pipe the same inner diameter as your maf.

im not an expert on nitrous at all. but is the nozzle installed going down or up? whne i was looking into alky injection i found everyone says the nozzle should be the highest point so the liquid doesnt drip into then engine.

 

Nitrous Express says there is no difference in top side or bottom install, so long as the outlet is facing the TB. Thanks for the MAF help , do you have any links to pics or how2's ?