SAFC is acting a a$$ on me!
SAFC is acting a a$$ on me!
My SAFC rpm readings have been off ever since i had it installed. It seems to read like 10% higher than what my tachometer is saying. I have tried playing with it several times and can't figure it out. Now that i have my car finally back i would like to fix it. Is there a setting i need to adjust. Also since the RPM readings are does that mean the fuel settings i have set are also off.
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Most likely, it is your tach that is off, not your SAFC. This is a fairly common problem. It happens with mine as well. The tach on both my AVCR and SAFCII are dead on. The stock tach is more of a guessometer. If it is like mine, it is fairly accurate at lower RPM's and can't keep up at higher RPM's if you accellerate quickly.
I wouldn't worry about it too much.
I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Originally Posted by superdave2
Most likely, it is your tach that is off, not your SAFC. This is a fairly common problem. It happens with mine as well. The tach on both my AVCR and SAFCII are dead on. The stock tach is more of a guessometer. If it is like mine, it is fairly accurate at lower RPM's and can't keep up at higher RPM's if you accellerate quickly.
I wouldn't worry about it too much.
I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Well the safc claims that at redline i am running around 8000 rpm. So unless someone put raised rev limiter on my car with out me knowing then i think the safc is definitley off.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
You sure you don't have that thing on 4cylinder mode or something?
Originally Posted by meccanoble
check the settings and give us all the info you see. I still have my SAFC hooked up, i can tell u what is write, wrong and funny looking. Hit me up on AIM if need be.
Thanks i will have to do it tommorow. I think the SAFC is my arch nemisis
btw, i have an issue i'm concerned about with mine. My afl shows 5.XX constantly at idle whether car is hot or cold obviously. But when i drive off, it goes down to 2.XX and i dont remember what happens after that. But when i had S/C, it stayed at 1.8 @ idle and obviously went up from there. Is it because of shorter piping or whatnot that i'm getting such a high afl? what is afl supposed to be for an N/A maxima?
Check your settings:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...26&postcount=1
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...26&postcount=1
Originally Posted by Stikya
Following the directions to get to the different settings.
Settings:
Took about 10 minutes: 6 cylinder, arrow up; hotwire 4in/4out.
High throttle 40%/Low throttle 39%.
Then set your RPM ranges to: 1000, 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000, 5500, 6000, 6500.
Correction Factors*:
Corrections factors will differ by car.
The ONLY way to tune it is on the dyno.**
*NOTE: The car will not be hurt by NOT setting these immediately. The car will run w/ zero correction, or as normal, until these are set.
**NOTE: Only adjust the high throttle correction factors, leave low throttle alone (the ECU will override them).
Initial Results: When I first started the car, I got a SEL, and it died 4 times. But, then it started up, and I took it to my buddy's shop to reset the SEL. Everything has been running perfectly since.
Settings:
Took about 10 minutes: 6 cylinder, arrow up; hotwire 4in/4out.
High throttle 40%/Low throttle 39%.
Then set your RPM ranges to: 1000, 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000, 5500, 6000, 6500.
Correction Factors*:
Corrections factors will differ by car.
The ONLY way to tune it is on the dyno.**
*NOTE: The car will not be hurt by NOT setting these immediately. The car will run w/ zero correction, or as normal, until these are set.
**NOTE: Only adjust the high throttle correction factors, leave low throttle alone (the ECU will override them).
Initial Results: When I first started the car, I got a SEL, and it died 4 times. But, then it started up, and I took it to my buddy's shop to reset the SEL. Everything has been running perfectly since.
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The Wizard
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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Oct 1, 2015 08:47 PM