Hello
Im new to the forums thing. My boss at Advance Auto Parts is convinced though that this is where i will be able to find some answers. within the next 2 weeks i plan on buying at 95 through 99 maxima. I have a budget of $2000 for doing the whole turbo setup. We have though that remote mounting the turbo like STS Turbo does is the direction to go. I am able to get headers and full 2 1/2 exhaust for under $200. Also i have an exhaust guy willing to do the 3in pipe from the turbo to the manifold for under $500. I am still confused on whats the best way to do the oil delivery. I also dont know what to use for a turbo. we were thinking of one in which we would use a boost controller for the wastegate, allthough i have not had many options to concider. I dont know about the best way to retard timing and how much i would need to at full boost. I realize fuel pressure is also something i have to deal with. If you guys have any ideas of how i can do this and what i would need while stilling staying under $2000 your help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks
Stephen

 

I will be the first to tell you , you can't do it. You need more stuff than you might think. Injectors, fuel pump, fmu, intercooler, piping, turbo manifold pipe, boost controller, clutch, turbo, waste gate, oil feed, oil return, oil cooler maybe, and I dont even know "all" about the turbo set up. You cant put together a cheap set up and expect quality results. I would guess you will need atleast $3500 . I sure someone else will jump in here soon and drop you the deatails. Good luck.

 

$2000 is an really tight budget to turbo a maxima. You could do the exhaust and induction piping, buy the turbo, oil lines, and a very basic fuel system for that but it would not be too impressive.

 

Alright well thank you....I was hoping for more promising answers. I guess i will try offering my car as a testbed for some new products and see what results that can turn out.
Thanks for the quick answers
Stephen

 

how much boost are you looking to run

i would say with a 2000$ budget you could make 300whp but thats pushing the stock injectors

whats the deal with 3in pipe from turbo to manifold and then only 2.5 for the turbo back that would make no sence you should be doing it the other way around

i see a few problems with mounting the turbo by the trunk

1 alot of lag

2 you will need a oil pump for the return

3 finding a place to mount it under the car

assuming your looking for a 5spd youll have to replace the clutch and if you were planing on buying an auto max dont expect the stock auto trans to hold up for more than a month or 2 depending on hp level

and im not sure how you could get a boost controler to replace a wastegate. that does not make any sence so please explain alittle more

 

Can't happen! I would not even go that route of the turbo by the trunk. Also i have seen that setup and it is kind of a joke. First off you would have way to much lag, next you would be changing out the filter like you change your pants. some one posted something just like this in the my350z website about this setup and it was all so funny. Buttom line is you would not have a good setup if you go that route.

 

I have no experience with the newer maximas... Mine's a VG (single cam) 1989 With used GN parts and 4 2" mandrel bends along with 2.5" pipe I was able to get mine non intercooled for 20.00 to begin with. (I had alot of extra parts ok) But it could happin for around 500.00. You'll have some more cost in intercooing in piping and a stock GN style IC (150.00) but that's faily easy too.
What's the deal with the turbo in the trunk? This isn't like re-locating the battery!
Stock exhaust manifolds will work fine. No need for headers. Just the piping to/from turbo & exhaust.
E-mail me with questions anytime
UR50SLO@aol.com
Good luck~Scott

 

I won't say it's impossible because nothing is impossible but I do agree that you are making things FAR more complicated than they need to be. That's definately not the way to go if you are looking to do things cheaply.

First, why bother with a rear mounted setup? I've seen this done before but it was done in the interest of saving space, and there WERE compromises which were made for it, including the increased lag, increased complexity of oil and water lines (water cooled turbo), tons of piping for both the induction and exhaust, need for an auxiliary oil pump to get the oil there and back, etc etc etc.

All you need to do to mount the turbo is relocate the battery to the trunk and then you have tons of room to play with. Replacing of the exhaust manifolds is not needed, our manifolds are only about 4" long so you can run a custom Ypipe setup directly off them (which is what everyone does, so you know it's proven). Also going with a 2.5" exhaust is sortof pointless. Better than stock, but if you are getting a full exhaust made anyways, why not do it right the first time, with 3" all the way back?

Boosted is a good guy to talk to for budget turbo buildups, he knows alot about GNs and how to integrate parts from the GN into your turbo setup, and there are a few others here as well who have built their own kits using mostly used and rebuilt parts.

Your boss was right this is the place to come for answers to maxima questions. It's just that in the turbo world most of the guys with turbo maximas are doing things on a budget that is much larger than $2000, so the cost saving and corner cutting options which you might need to employ are not that familiar to others, and it may seem "impossible" to do it the way they envision it. But anything is possible so keep asking questions and we will do our best to answer them.

As far as fuel goes. FMU, FPR, and fuel pump are probably the cheapest options for a "safe" setup. For ignition, if you are planning on running low power levels (which I would assume since you're trying to only spend $2000 on it) you won't need to worry about the ignition timing. Plenty of people are boosted on stock ECUs with no consideration made for ignition timing at all. If you really WANT to mess with the ignition you have the options of: getting your ecu reprogrammed with retarded ignition timing, using an active timing puller like J&S safeguard which redards ignition when it detects knock just enough to keep it safe (but not kill your power like the stock knock sensor does) or a piggyback like greddy emanage which you can set the ignition however you'd like to. I'd tend to say all of that is totally unneccessary at this point though given the fact that plenty of people are running stock unchanged ignition timing.

 

On a 2000$ budget, check into a used supercharger setup.

"fast, cheap, reliable. pick two." applies here