Ian did you happen to try taching it up to 3000 when the RPMs are being inconsistent on cold startup like I had suggested?

I don't have much experience in the area, relative noob, but that works for me and I've got a z32 maf on the charged side.

 

Yep - I did try that.

No workie.

Do you get a rough cold start to where for 5 mins the car just wants to die?

 

Well, if I don't tach it up to 3000 on cold start, then it would just die. It wouldnt idle rough, it would sputter for maybe 2 seconds trying to idle (unsuccessfully) then die. If I tach it up to 3000 then it idles like a stock maxima would, 1500rpm then slowly dropping down as it gets up to temp.

 

Yep - mine doesn't do the "slow drop" whatsoever - just idles like crap until warm...

 

Picked up the other MAF tonight.

Installed it and car *seems* to be idling better - but the car is warmed up at the moment, so I'm leaving it overnight....

I'll report findings in the AM.

 

Are you awake yet?

 

Figured it out.

Put the new MAF in last night - waited overnight - started her up this morning - SAME PROBLEM.

So this time I removed the SC Piping from the blower outlet and let it sit there with no SC going to it. It revs fine, and idles fine.

It's because it's on the charged side. Why it works for others and not me - I couldn't say. THose of you who this works for, is it because maybe you have CAI's?

I now figure when the engine/SC is cold the air is far more tubulent coming out of the SC....when it warms up the air levels out.

The next question is - is there anyone running on the non-charged side that could give me some pointers on building piping?

Has anyone even sucessfully put one on the non-charged side without blowback issues,etc?

IanS

 

I don't have a CAI but I obviously have all the piping associated with an intercooler. I have no intake, just a turbo inlet then the piping to the IC, from the IC up to the maf.

 

Of course I have a turbo and you have an SC with a mechanical connection to the engine so my turbo, if it is spinning at all at idle, is probably not spinning as fast as your SC is thus the turbulence would be different.

 

Change you BOV and let it vent a bit?
Perhaps the pressure at idle is the issue.

 

I'd rather spend $100 on piping than $250-$300 for a new BOV.

I'll try opening it all the way anyway just for experimental purposes. It should allow a little bleed at idle if I open it 100%.

 

Just tried it - BOV is letting a bit of air out at idle.

Didn't help at all - actually, it seems to be worse.....

 

I think this is the synopsis of what's happening:

Start Car - Cold air is far more turbulent than warm air. Car idles horribly and does not want to rev at all.

SC gets oil running through it and the air coming into the piping and the piping itself is much hotter. This causes the air to be less turbulent (albeit still a little turbulent) causing the idle to "hunt" up/down and causing occasional slight hesitation at mid RPM.

Once I hit the higer RPM ranges, the airflow is strong and steady - car runs great.

I'm considering that possibly a CAI or other piping coming off the inlet of the SC causes the air to enter into the SC more uniformly and therefore the car idles better on cold starts. Currently I only have a filter on the end of my SC, so this may explain some things.

If that doesn't help, I'll need to fabricate piping to put the MAF on the non-charged side (makes me wish I bought the 5th Gen piping from Jay25 when I had the chance).

So again - who has the MAF on the charged side? Do you have a CAI? (SC setups only)

In addition, is any 4th Gens running well with this setup on the non-charged side using a recirc valve? If so, I'd love to see pics.....

 

I was looking at Stephen Max's pics...he has what looks like 3" piping on his blower.

That could epxlain also why it works on the charged side for him so well. Bigger piping = less turbulence?

 

Nope I have the Stillen Piping....

Seriously I swear to Christmas it was the ground that did it for me.

 

Well, I wish it was, but since my car idles and revs great with no blower, I don't see how the ground could be my problem.

The MAF is obviously working fine....both Z32 MAFs I tested.

 

Hey delio - just in case - where do you have the 2nd ground on the Tomei connector going to?

I found that connected or disconneted, it appeared to do nothing.... (had it going straight to the battery)

 

delio - you were having the same problem I was having before I soldered my wiring...bucking and hesitation at any temp.

My problem now is only on cold start and a very occasional slight hesitation when warm.

 

Very interesting thread...

It may have something to do with having in on the charged side, but the thing is, maybe it your eeprom from JWT acting a little weird on cold start ??

I was also pondering that alot of the guys that have this working on the charged side are running Larger Charge Pipes (3") and NOT having the problem..(Paul, Stephan Max)

-matt

 

Exactly what I'm thinking.

However - since with the piping not connected to the SC it runs perfectly well on cold start, I really don't think it's the chip at all anymore.

But the larger piping is definately something worth looking into - and it shouldn't be difficult to make a 3" intake setup by purchasing 3" piping and cutting it to measurements then use a "HAI" MAF Adapter plate for the MAF clamped into place.

SHouldn't be too hard - and 3" intake piping is always good anyway - so if it works or not, I have a 3" setup. Just have to get it chromexed once it's fully fabricated.

I do have to weld bungs in for both the BOV and the IACV ports however - that's going to be fun.

 

Repost as you know

At idle while cold, 14-18 deg of timing, while in "N" with the clutch out.

After warm up with the car just sitting there.. no driving idle goes to 4-8.

Driving was hard to monitor by myself, it was 12-14 sloing down at like 5 mph and dropped to 4-8 when I stopped clutch depressed or released.

I am going to play with the sooftware and see about hooking it up to the computer and getting some info.

This is all with 300z Maf and 400cc injectors

 

I'm a newbie whose idea of car enhancement is filling the gas tank so this will definitely not be technical but may help you or someone else. I found your post while I was looking for info regarding a cold start problem on my 2000 maxima. At 30 degrees outside temperature it would take at least 20 minutes - till the engine warmed up- with my foot fully on the gas to keep it running. At sixty degrees the hitch was barely noticable but still there. Once it was going I had no problem starting it again for the rest of the day unless it was extremely cold. It has taken 2 months for the dealer, working with the Nissan engineers, to trace the problem. Many parts replaced and then removed - IACV, main computer etc., talks of replacing wiring harness. It finally came down to a low spot in the intake gasket. From what I understand they diagnosed a leak by running propane?? down the back of the engine and took it from there.

 

Propane is heavier then air, therefore it drops and gets drawn inside the IM through the leak and most likely changes the RPM.

That's an old school way of detecting a vacuum leak.

 

Very good advice - but since the Z32 MAF runs great on cold start without the SC piping plugged in, and since my vacuum is reading a healthy 20Hg, I'm sure that's not my problem.

 

Any chance this could have to do with the AFC Sensor Type Settings?

I understand that Z32 MAFs need to be set to 2 in/2 out, whereas the A32 is 4 in/4 out.

Anyone ever set thier Z32 to 4 in/4 out and gotten similar symptoms?

I'll be trying this on Saturday.

 

If that has been your issue all along.....

 

Well - I dunno - I was hoping someone would have the answer before I had time to get around to it on Saturday.

I have noticed that setting it to 2 in/ 2 out with the A32 MAF doesn't make much of a difference tho - so I'm doubtful.

But my theories have been proven wrong time and time again....

And yes - I am a total tard.

 

Shouldn't it be 2(z32) in 4(a32) out

 

Why would it be 2in/4out?

My ECU will be the JWT Z32 Program with the MAF being a Z32 MAF.

I think it's 2 in, 2 out....

Or is, as usual, my thinking flawed?

 

Just because you use the "Z32 MAF program" chip, I don't know if that makes Out=02.

Can you bypass or temporarily remove the SAFC?

 

I'll just try 02 - 04 then 02 - 02 and see what happens.

Then if it still doesn't work, I'll go under the dash and start ripping out and reconnecting wires.

 

If you just turn off the SAFC, doesn't that "bypass" it?

 

There's a power button on the SAFC I?

lol - if there is a power button or setting, I've never seen it.

 

Yeah, it's called the FUSE you tapped for the power wire.

I've never installed one, so be gentle.

 

Fuse? What fuse?

I don't need no stinkin fuse!



And besides, there's some wires that you have to still move to have the car run at all with the SAFC powered down.

 

Man...we need some Wiring 101, if you didn't tap a fuse in the fuse panel.

 

No - I'm kidding - there's a fuse on there....heh

 

Hmmmnn....Fields AFC allows that, IIRC.

 

I have a Fields sitting in a box somewhere in my garage....

Thought I was going to need it for the multiple settings to use with the Nitrous (Also sitting in my garage) but I decided against Nitrous.....

I really should post in the For Sale Forum one day.

 

You won't get **** for it... It's a nice unit, but the SAFCs are the rage.

Seriously, the SAFC will not allow the MAF to work without it disconnected when powered OFF?