Hello everyone!!!!

Forgive me if this question has been asked many times but I am pressed for time and was not able to comb thru the stickies before asking this question. I am getting a 99 I30 engine, hopefully soon, with 42k miles in it from a fellow orger. It's a VQ30DE. Part of the engine project is to either boost or turbocharge it however, I cannot make up my mind. I would like to know, from you FI'd guys, what is the most practical and cost effective way to do this? I am rulling out NOS. I will not know the actual condition of the internals and compression ratio until I get the engine. But lets say everything is ideal, what would be the ideal setup.... SC or turbo? Which is simpler to install? And which is the cheaper to do? And also which is safer in terms of stock internals? If I must upgrade, which internals are crucial to upgrade? Hope I'm not asking too much but I am really excited in starting this type of project as this will be my first engine project ever. I know it'll take me a while to put everthing together meanwhile using all the info found in this org as a guide.

Any info is greatly appreciated.

 

if you don't have time to read the stickies, you don't have the time to tinker with a F/I car

 

True. SC is more of a plug and play set up. Turbo's are nice too but if you don't know much about either you may be heading for disaster

 

Guys, I'm not being absolute here about having no time. I'm not gonna make excuses for not reading the stickies, nor am I asking you guys to re-write what is on the stickies in here. I just want a generalized info on both setups. If that's too much to ask then I guess I came to the wrong place and the moderator can feel free to close the thread.

 

so thats the new thing now...I see the stickies, but I'm too lazy to read them... some of you people have to learn how to LEARN...you should have read the sign when you came in here..."sorry spoon feeding the lazy asses is prohibited"

 

I like how you guys serve-up help to new comers making them feel like shet for even asking questions! Don't worry I read the PDF file for the S/C install ENTIRELY! Now here comes more question. Anyone that can help please help, all other smart-alleck comments can go elsewhere. Thank you!

Since I will be installing the sc before the new engine goes into the car, it will be easy to mount the vortech unit itself onto the timing cover side of the engine...no sweat. While having plenty of room in the engine bay after removing the old engine, I can then relocate things like coolant reservoir and lines, and other related items. Looking at how the blower attaches to the engine, I see some potentially PITA situations once the engine is in the car. If the water pump or thermostat ever needs to be replaced, will this mean that you practically have to tear down half of the sc install to access them? How about when replacing the serpentine belt? What about when replacing a radiator or cooling fan? Has anyone had any issues with having to replace any components that would go out due to wear and tear?

Thanks.

 

If a belt goes or the water pump yes you will have to take out the sc mounting bracket. It is not really that hard. When installing or taking out the blower is attached to the bracket which means the belt has already been run through. Basically all of the stuff comes off all at once.

 

Your attitude in the last post again displays that you do not have the time to hassle with an FI car.

 

So basically removing the 6 bolts that attaches the plate and the s/c to the engine is to be removed, then everything else can be accessed. Sounds good enough. I have been reading on the turbo section as well and I got a headache trying to understand everything since nothing in that set up is plug and play but I can see more potential out of that setup. Plus between engine component upgrades, additional needed parts, and labor.....I'll have to take out a second mortgage on the house for that. They said a good kit is around $4k and basically getting a kit is alot less problematic than piecing everything together. Reading Ptatoe's head write up, made things a bit simple and straight forward.... props to him! Aight, well I guess time to shop around for a Vortech kit.

BTW, I'm thinking of upgrading the cams on the new engine, plus replacing some of the existing components like water pump and thermostat. I'm thinking of replacing all seals: valve cover, head gasket, front and rear main, plus the two rings inside the timing chain cover. What else would you guys suggest for performance upgrades? My buddy who is an engine mechanic mentioned piston rings, which to me seems a bit extreme. But is this even necessary? I guess I'll know more about this after a compression test is done on the engine. Any other upgrades that might be needed in the engine internals?

Also, thank you vortechpower for taking the time to give your suggestions instead of what others were doing criticising, they could have wasted their bandwidth by perhaps praising someone else for their LED mods. I wish there are more orgers like you who are willing to help because this org needs it badly. I appreciate your time.

 

We're not trying to give you a hard time, it's just the stickies are there for a reason. I think you will find everyone here is happy to help as long as you help yourself as well.

It sounds like the SC is right for you. As far as internal engine upgrades I wouldn't worry about that anytime in the near future. As long as the compression checks out okay your stock block should be good for more power than the supercharger can make. I'm not sure what you've got already but you'll probably want at least a y-pipe and probably an exaust that flows better. You also need to decide what supercharger pulley to go with... there's a chart around here somewhere that shows the maximum boost you'll typically get with each size pulley. That will help determine if you need anything more extensive like injectors, fuel pump, etc...

 

Also, depending on the pulley size you may want to invest in some safty features. Water injection, J&S, eManage, just to name a few. But only if you go too small on the pulley size.

 

Thanks... I am going with a 3.25" pulley (10 psi boost) since the engine it's going on only has 42k miles. I am hoping that this won't necessitate injector and fuel pump upgrades. I'm not even sure if an FSM will be needed. I'll have to do more research. I am definitely doing a header/ypipe setup, perhaps a cattman full system with 3" pipes all the way down to the tail pipe. I'm thinking true dual set-up but I can already see that it might not be doable at all because of room under the car. I still gotta consider a lot more before deciding on what pulley I want to actually get.

Perhaps you sc'd guys can chime in with what pulley you got and why and how its holding up since you got it.

 

Ok.......I gotta sleep after posting, been going thru this forum all night!

I have looked around this forum for other Maximas that are boosted at 10 PSI and the closest one I got to is an 11 PSI (3.125") boosted max with JWT ECU running flashed SC program.

I know I said earlier that I am leaning towards 10 PSI (3.25") because I figured that 1) the new engine is low mileage and can take more boost 2) I didn't think I was going to need bigger injectors + fmu & fuel pump + fsr but after reading on a few sc'd maximas, looks like I'll need these anyway. I had carefully thought of what I really want to achieve with the supercharger and honestly, hitting the tracks reguarly wasn't in my mind at all. But who knows what'll happen when I get accustomed to sc performance. Anyway, why do I want a supercharger? To have a bit of an edge (ok a good edge :P) over some of the fast sedans out there. LIke some of the fast BMW's or Benzes, even the Acura RL or TL. Or perhaps those big block Impalas, Mustangs, etc...I don't want to be over-ambitious.

I figured nearly-doubling the Maxima's stock HP, lets say 300-350 HP would be a good achievement for me. With that said, will I need bigger injectors and fuel pump? What max boost can I achieve from having stock injectors and such? What safety features are recommended for small and big boosts? I read about oil-coolers, what are recommended? What metal pulley is recommended or would I even need to worry about those plastic ones that comes with the supercharger which have broke off on some users? I also read about aluminum belt tensioner pulleys being an ideal upgrade from stock ones as they melt eventually because of the sc. What's the scoop on that?

Geeez...I gotta go to bed cuz I'm seeing doubles. Hope I get some good answers in the morning.


**Edit**

I just realized your 10 PSI vortechpower! Maybe I can start with what you have in addition to the boost as far as fuel/management upgrades, as well as safety features.

 

I would recomend donating the $20 and getting the search feature.

 

You can install the oil return plate and align the SCer to that allen bolt, behind the idler pulley. I would not mount the SCer and drop the engine in. Too much of a tight area to work with. Plus the long bolt on the motor mount will be a pain to try to put in. Do remove the manifold and clean up the lower manifold out. You can dip it simple green and leave in there over night and just clean out with a brush. You can also sand it down to make it smooth. I did that when I did my motor swap. You can also change the water pump while you are at it and the rear main seal.

well thats it for now

take care

Jaime

 

Jaime, so you are saying that its better to install the SCer in the engine ones its in the car? What do you mean by too tight of an area to work it? Would it be problematic to massage the engine into place in the engine compartment? If installing the SCer when the engine is in the car, would it be a bit easier to have the front side (passengerside) of the engine jacked-up just to provide more room?

 

Definitely donate so you can search.

I also feel that installing when the engine is out of the car isn't the best way. It will ease mounting the blower but will make reinstalling the engine more difficult. It would be easy to do the oil drain and such when its off but there is too much risk to knock the blower when you dropping the engine in. A slight misalignment and your gonna have belt issues.

Are you talking 300-350 wheel? That would be impossible without exhaust work and at least the 3.125. I also like the idea of going with the 3.25. I can't decide between the two. That extra pound requires a lot more to run correctly(Without skyhigh FP).

FYI, you'll be smoking all the cars you mentioned with a 3.125 or 3.25. Impala's are fair game for a bolt on Maxima. They weigh over 4000lbs.

Jay, simple green worked on your IM? You must have had a good batch of it or I have a bad batch because it doesn't do **** on the caked on sludge in my runners.

 

i would look into a z32 maf as well.

when you were talking about injectors, which ones were you thinking? I know that most of the people on the board are running 95-96 370cc injectors and that is keep the duty cycle within safety limits.

as for the other things that people are talking about. an afc and gauges are a worthy investment.

the install of the sc is a little awkward due to the lack of space, but once you have done it more than once, it becomes easier and easier.

 

I believe with 10 psi your stock injectors are at 100% duty cycle and your fuel pressure at redline is over 100psi... you would basically be at the injectors' limit. At that point I would definitely recommend going to the 370cc Z32 injectors along with a Z32 MAF and JWT SC program. That whole mess will cost you a little over a grand, but it's much better to run lower fuel pressure and not make the injectors work so hard. It also leaves some headroom in case you want to drop pulley sizes. Definitely replace the plastic pulleys, and also think about either the '00-'01 intake manifold or the MEVI.

 

Good suggestions......thanks!

Broaner,

300-350 whp is wishful thinking. I saw the posted dyno graphs from different sc'd maximas:

263 tq - 288 hp at 11 psi????
274 tq - 348 hp at 12 psi
285 tq - 339 hp at 13 psi

One side of me wants 12 psi for obvious reasons. The conservative side of me wishes to settle with 10psi (haven't seen dyno graphs of it), I know vortechpower has the 10psi pulley. But then again, there's nothing conservative about boosting. I'm going to just search the internet more for variations of setups. If I can smoke the cars I've mentioned with a 3.25 pulley, I'm game! But like many people that I have seen running boosted, they suggested to leave a little room for adjustments later on so I'd like to have that flexibility to go up a pulley size or two.


Slimer,

I was referring to the 300zxtt ones but I know they'll be expensive. I'm looking at around 10 or 11 psi boost, 12 would be stretching it. Do you think 370cc will suffice? I'm still collecting data from the different setups people have here so the notes I made are scribbled on little post its and taped all over my flat screen but I gotta put them all in order.

Keep the suggestions coming guys! I'm trying to get as much info using the poorman's search engine because afterall this is said and done, I'll be poor.

 

370's are fine, you can find a set for under $200 on ebay, just make sure to get them sonically cleaned and flow tested.

all of this stuff depends on how much maintenance you want to do.

since the motor is out, i would look into a variable intake manifold. that is how those guys got the high end power. without one, you will probably be limited to around 300 or so whp.

 

Cool!!! You answered the question I asked Slimer. I just confused myself by thinking somehow that the 300ztt injectors are 550cc, am I wrong? 370cc Z32 has been noted. Will I need to upgrade the fuel pump? Also, for the JWT SC program, I have read that the JWT program has to be reflashed when you change your sc setup. Will having emanage be better for this, what about cost effectiveness? Also, will I be able to still benefit well from the SCer w/o the MEVI? Perhaps I can get it down the line but install is gonna be a pain since its better to do it with the engine out of the car no?

Also, I forgot to mention and please correct me if I'm wrong. Trying to remember what I read from last nite regarding the SC install. Can I perform these steps on the new engine while its out of the car:

1) installing the T adapter
2) oil feed lines
3) remove idler pulley
4) install drain back plate
5) reroute ps lines
6) install cam timing sensor retainer
7) install new belt adjuster bracket
8) preping alternator for repositioning when SC is in
9) relocate coolant res. and line + fuse box, and installing the aux fuel pump, regulator, and switch.

Anything else I missed? Thanks.

 

thats about right.

 

Cool, I'm making my shopping list. BTW, can you still pass smog check being SC'd?

 

Whoa guys. I think we are going to over load this person with too much info. I say play it safe and get used to having boost on the 3.25 pulley until you become familiar with the setup. That way you can run stock injectors and not have too much to worry about

 

Speaking of overload, been reading up on sc'ing til past 1 last nite. I even emailed Nissan Performance Mag for more insight. BTW, are you still running on 10psi? What was your initial setup when you first installed your SC and what kind of power were you able to produce with it? What was your first immediate upgrade, if you had any after running on 10psi for a while? Thanks.

**Forgot**

Sorry for too many questions, but your setup seems to be the most ideal for me so please bear with me. When you first got the SC, did you do anything to upgrade the exhaust system? TB? ECU? FSM? MEVI? Thanks.

 

I first went with an upgraded exhaust system. It makes perfect sense if you are pulling in more air you need to be able to get it out faster. After that I went for a ACT stage 1 clutch. I got some gauges (boost, a/f) and then went down in pulley size. I went from the 3.6 to the 3.33. I cut the hole for the cai which adds another psi or 10hp and went with the 3.125. I think it is a must that you have some kinda suspension upgrade before you boost. A front strut bar is always good to have and I think the rear strut bar is also good to have (that is what I have). As for the suspension itself, that is all up to you but you will need something alittle tighter. I have never changed my ecu or my fmu disc. I have never had my car on a dyno either so I can't give you an accurate # Maybe 270whp So you see if I can go 97k miles boosted with no dyno or any tuning the setup is realiable. I am still running stock injectors with 10psi. I will be going to the dyno soon to find out what I need to get me where I want to go.


When the sc kit was first installed I had H&R springs and Tokikco struts, both strut bars and a stillen muffler.

 

Awesome...thanks for the much needed replies.

I am waiting for a set of GR2's & HR's. I ordered them way before I even decided to boost and the only reason why I decided on it is because I saw a low mileage engine that I can build-on. I'm thinking on going for AGXs now because of the new upgrades. The full exhaust system is in the list, I like the Cattman setup. And I bookmarked the CAI how-to for the SC. Since I'm still on original clutch (5-speed), I'll end up going for a high performance clutch just have not decided on what's the most suitable setup. I heard that a BOV is necessary for 5 speeds, not so much on automatics. If that's so, I heard Blitz is the brand. Any suggestions?

 

I have the blitz bov. I have tried some of the others and found this to be the best. There is no loud sound other than the sound of compressed air being released. When are you expecting to buy this sc kit and from where?

 

I been watching the org for used kit, also been looking on the net but not that much since I have been concentrating on gathering info about what I else I'm gonna need. I'm probably going to get the engine in a couple of weeks. We're going to do a complete examination of the internals and we're going to check the pistons, rings, and valves, change all seals and gaskets, water pump & thermostat, & freeze plugs. Camming is in the list but I'm not sure how far that is going to set me back and I'm still gathering info on that. If I find a rare deal on a used MEVI, I'm going to grab it. I'm going to try and replace things around the engine while its in a stand. Meanwhile, I'm going to keep an eye out on deals for new or used Vortechs, I prefer V1.

BTW, how long have you been boosted with your current setup? How long were you running boosted before getting the ACT?

 

97k miles. I went 52k miles on stock clutch! Boosted since 6,500miles

 

That is impressive. Hopefully the new engine will hold up the same. This project will take awhile because I want to take my time and do it right. I have a feeling this project will take several turns. It should be fun.

 

Just curious; how do you plan to do a compression check?

 

I was discussing this with my friend as well. Theres a couple of things we can do.

1) the hard part - remove my old engine and do the swap, hope and pray the engine internals aren't seized and I can at least get it to crank

2) be creative - we can try to rig an ignition system, connect the starter, connect to a power source. I'm not sure I have to get a 95 ECU and connect all engine sensors. We'll have to still think about this

3) expensive route - since we were going to tear the engine apart anyway, we can inspect the pistons, cylinder walls, valves, etc. I'm doing a cam upgrade most likely. Replace all seals, inspect/replace piston rings if needed. UNCDood said that there's no crack on the block so I trust him on that. Compression should be good then.

We'll see when we get the engine. I'm not going to rush thru everthing. The engine in my Max has 136k miles and it still runs good. Has a very minor rear main seal leak. No other major issues.

 

y not buy an engine with an warranty?

 

What is wrong with your engine? I have 136k and I fully plan on boosting the **** out of it next year. A rear main seal is no problem to fix. Do a comp check on yours and save yourself the $500+ and hassle on the new engine. Put that $$$ toward the SC stuff.

 

uncdood is a pretty good guy. he only started to mod last year. i dont think you have to worry too much

 

This is why: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=366970 .

This is going to be a "project" engine. Something that I can only work on a few nights in the week and on weekends. I don't want any downtime from my car because this is the only vehicle I have right now to get to and from work until I can get my 4x4 back and running (tranny went out). It's kinda over-whelming how things are happening all at once: business taxes due, my truck is acting up, and then this deal with UNCDood that I cannot pass up. My car is holding up fine and I don't want to ruin that by starting a project on my car that I rely on for daily transportation.

In addition, the really cool thing is that once the project engine is finished and in the car. I have a spare engine to work on and it'll be sitting in my garage whenever it is needed.

 

from your posts in the thread you link it seems you need to learn alittle mroe about your Vs and Qs, if you are worried about an engine being doa get an warranty, if you buy it from private seller you take your chances thats all. make your self a thicker HG, use some apr head bolts and rod bolts, you know do some stuff to be safe if you plan to boost, it couldnt hurt. also maybe you might want to install the engine and make sure it works top notch before you put a sc or turbo on it, it would be easier to troubleshoot if you get any problems. jsut go slow check for detail you should be ok

 

True but $400 is not even a big thing, if the engine is DOA, I'm sure I can put most of its parts to good use. I see people spending almost that kind of money on plastic tail lights that has that cool red/clear look (95 max) or steering wheel swaps...pretty pointless stuff for that kind of money.