Has anyone ever investigated/attempted it? Recently hearing about "micro" slips I think it'd be worthwhile to covert to a 8 or 7 rib setup. My questions are:

Are 8 or 7 rib belts even made?
Is there enough room between the gearbox and bracket?

I know all new pulleys would be needed but that only means one for me. I'm going to be getting a crank pulley made by ASP that has no power steering guides or ribs. Therefore the only added challenge would be finding or having an 8/7 rib Alt pulley made.

 

Wow, I didn't think this was such a bad idea I'd have to bump it. I guess we're getting a lot of traffic in here today.

 

i dont know about this. a cog belt would make more sense in terms of slippage.

 

What is a cog belt?

 

The 350 Vortech kits use a timing belt I believe. I think you could get a wider belt to work, but would require a bit of work and most likely cost.

 

Like this:

 

cogs are not recomended for cars with manual transmissions because of all the slow down/speed up between shifts

for more info and a very cool setup check this out

http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/...highlight=cogs

 

As I mentioned, I'm getting a new crank pulley to eliminate the power steering part. So the only extra expense would be the alt pulley. Could ASP make a crank, alt and boost pulley with lateral lines to match this? This type of belt would totally reduce slippage; no? Also, tension could be reduced quite a bit and therefore increase power.

 

subs, good info.

it doesnt sound like broaner's car is going to be that streetable.

it may make sense to go with the 8 rib, but i dont think that it will fit right.

remember, with the s/c kit, belt alignment is crucial.

 

My car definitely not be streetable in most people's idea of the term. Streetable on a perfectly sunny day. Snowy days; forget it. Rain; only when I get stuck in it on the way home from somewhere.

You saying the cog thing can work? I'm really interested in looking into this. Thanks for the idea. Do cog pulleys exist in the proper form? Every belt like this I've seen has been on a pulley that is open ended. Since belt alignment is so important having no guide and allowing the belt to walk could be disasterous.

 

i dont really bolt my alternator to the bracket.

i just go from the other side and use the hole as a resting point for the belt. this way, the alternator can move a couple of millimeters to each side to compensate a little.

i came up with this technique as a mistake, but it seems to work.

 

That is good to hear. Do you think I could grind off that ear of the bracket to reduce weight? I was really hoping I could do away with that contact point. It looks like I'm going to have to slice right through the heart of the bracket to route the belt with no secondary idler.