did most of you guys use kits, or just build junkyard turbo setups? if you used kits where did you find good deals on them.

 

these are the kits i've found http://www.turbo-kits.com/maxima_turbo_kits.html the dyno on that second.. and more expensive kit is unreal. They say they got 80 hp at 4 p.s.i. i dont know how that happens unless your intercooler is submerged in ice and has 20 fans blowing on it. Anyone know of any other sites to check out about kits? cuz that one is dam expensive

 

im not sure how they got that much power with s little boost but most maxs that have that kit make between 300 and 350whp A 10psi so i would go buy that and not there dyno

there is a dyno sticky on this form that has alot of turbo maxs that will also give you a better idea

and you wont find a cheaper "kit" as far as i know the only way to do it cheaper is to biuld one yourself and that all depend on how skilled and knowledgeable you are

 

you can build a junkyard turbo kit for failry cheap, but it is very involved, and there will be alot of custom work to be done, and possible rebuilding of parts....if you want to do everything, it will take some time, but i think you could get away with a $1500 junkyard setup....depends on if you know what you're doing or not.

 

i did my junkyard setup for about $1,500 (that included getting a turbo engine though since i have that option). if i ever did it again i could boost the stock engine for half that and make more power at the same time. (i hate low compression )

 

Yep.. I'm in the same ball park as Mtcookson.. I used mainly parts that I've worked with on Buick Grand Nationals for years. The engines have many similartiys and react to boost in much the same way. I use Live Edit wich was free Via the internet to tune my ECU... It's not a fast way to tune but it works for the price.
Stock GN turbos (used) are 100-200.00 they support 350hp
You'll need several pipes to connect the stock exhaust manifolds to the turbo and then a down pipe to a 2 1/2 exhaust minimum. 100.00 parts
Oil feed line/return line 50.00
Adj.Fuel Pressure Regulator 75.00
240 or better Warboro Fuel pump 100.00
Then alot of hours of carefull tuneing with a wideband O2
You can add a intercooler at any time.
~Scott

 

They dynoed in Colorado at several thousand feet of elevation, then applied the SAE correction factor to the results. That will give artificially high numbers for a boosted car. They should post the uncorrected dyno.

 

Yeah but the dyno sticky doesn't have enough to make more than very broad estimations. I find it quite annoying that people don't post dyno's if they have them.

 

Yeah. Why is that, I wonder?

 

I am just about to start my turbo install and just like any other car project it always costs more than planned. I did not buy a "kit" or do a "junky yard" set up. I was lucky enough to be able to buy the turbo, all the exhaust and intercooler piping, and oil/water lines pre made to fit my car (used).

For the rest of the parts I chose to buy new but shopped around for the best prices I could find. I also chose to go with more expensive higher quality parts. So I could have saved a little money by going with used parts or "off" brand stuff. I have bought everything I need for a quality basic set up that can get me close to 300whp safely. So far I have spent a little more than $4K, which includes

All the previous mentioned exhaust/intercooler piping, oil/water lines, turbo, and FMU
Intercooler
Clutchnet Clutch
Redline shock proof gear oil
HKS SSQV BOV
Tial 38mm waste gate
Walbro Fuel pump
Defi electronic Fuel pressure gauge
Blitz turbo timer/boost gauge
Apexi SAFC-II
3" resonated test pipe

Then there is the small stuff that can add up to few hundred dollars easy

Almost 40 T-bolts
20+ silicone couplers
Various AN/NPT fittings I needed
Battery relocation kit
Various gaskets and bolts

Then stuff that was not necessary but I thought was a good idea

Powder coated the intercooler piping
Ceramic coated the exhaust piping
ES motor mounts
Replcement Fidanza friction disk



It is easy to say I should be able to go turbo for X amount of money but there are always thing your don't realize or forget about that really can add up. Shoot, I had no idea I would spend almost $200 on T-bolts and silicone couplers.

 

It's not unrealistic although I agree that doing it at 5000+ft. with the equivalent of a 20% correction factor will lead to artificially high numbers. Wasn't that the huge argument we all had when they first posted those numbers?

When we dynoed Jason Sadler's car, he pulled 255 whp on multiple dyno runs, the week before the turbo, he did ~167whp (the exact number escapes me and I dont' have the chart here). On those runs, there was a correction of 1.04 or so. Turbo efficiency isn't linear.

My wife's Integra made a 54 whp gain at just 3 psi on a tiny T3 turbo, same dyno as Sadler's.

My car does 301whp at 7psi. I never had a dyno without the turbo, so I can't know the exact gains, but most 4th gen auto Maximas seem to be in the 150-165whp range. So conservatively, 130whp at 7psi.

 

Is that sarcasm or no? When I get everything installed and dyno'ed I'll definitely post up the graphs. It helps so many people figure out what they need to get to their goal. If you only got like four SC'ed graphs to go off its kinda difficult to keep all the differences of those setups in mind. Its not like a dyno gives away your secrets unless they are bold faced lies.

 

T25? Isn't that the one that runs off ONLY the front bank? eww. BTW. that top turbo pic isn't the real kit for the maxima unless someone has made a cast iron manifold for the VQ30.

 

No, no sarcasm. It's been a long time since I was a teenager.

 

I'll do the same here.